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In My Garage:

Found 4 results

  1. Well, I hope this sheds light on things and helps people with their electrical woes... hope it helps me too hahahaha. :blink: My bike's history: 2003 VTEC (Spain: so no wiring harness nor stator recall) Installed VFRness around 55000 km. 1st stator fried at around 65000 km Replaced with aftermarket stator. Short time later R/R fried (dead battery put me onto it... stator readings were fine) Replaced both 2nd stator fried at 75000 km Replaced with OEM stator and replaced R/R (aftermarket) and battery (YTZ14s) just in case. Few days later the stator-R/R connector fried. Cut out the connector from the equation and hardwired stator to R/R. 85000 km (just the other week) I was going over the electrical system and noticed the 3 yellow wires dowstream from stator-R/R connector (that is to say: between this connector and the R/R) getting very hot... disconnected it to take stator readings... fine... connected it back up and it started to smoke... shut off bike and curse Mother Honda and the horse she rode in on. Discovered that one of the yellow wires was so hot you couldn't even touch it... the others were relatively cool (they will warm up, this is normal, but usually you can keep hold on them for several seconds at least... even longer is better). So my question to myself and fellow VFR buddies was... R/R or Stator?? An engineer friend of mine who deals with this stuff all day long had the brilliant idea of pulling the hot one and taking readings to see if at least this might get one back home... it probably would work if you disconnected one headlight and were real smooth on the throttle as the rectification of the AC volts would no longer level peak voltage into a smooth DC wave... and if you're radiator fan weren't coming on all the time (i.e. cool ambient temps)... and you didn't spend too long with the motor idling.... anyway, this is just a long-way-from-home desperate-act-of-survival tip... So, in order to eliminate R/R or Stator as the culprit, we swapped the order of the wires around... let's call the female half of the connector (stator side) F and the male half (R/R side) M... so wire-wise we have the stock order of F1-M1, F2-M2, F3-M3. The M side wires are the ones getting hot and we had removed these from the white plastic housing and stuck them into the female housing in a different order... previously F1-M1 would get hot (well, really M1, but M1 connected into F1)... if we rearranged things, as in F1-M2, F2-M3, F3-M1... then if F1-M2 were the one heating up, the rpoblem would probably reside in the stator side of things... but actually F3-M1 was the one getting BBQ hot... so it was fairly certain the R/R was fugged... While we were at it, we decided to check out the (famous over here in Spain) BYC... bit like KFC... Big Yellow Connector (read "Kentucky Fried Connector")... this is a reasonably large yellow connector through which a whole bunch of ground wires run, in the front subharness... it's not really large in size, but there are 12 wires running through it... each of a different thickness (guage)... three thicker ones and the rest are puny. This connector seems to join all sorts of ground wires (seemingly from sensors and the like) but with the surprising effectiveness of an ashtray on a VFR. Nill, null, zero, ziltch, none and sweet f-a effectiveness. It's a piece of crap and hardly creates any decent connections whatsoever. So we eliminated the connector, twirled the ends together and wrapped another section of cable around this (to bolt the other end of this to ground on the chassis) and soldered the lot with a torch solderer... I can say my VTEC transition and Fi system in general is running smoother so this probably means the ECU is receiving proper readings from sensors now because the surging issues had been getting intolerable lately. I'm currently running a second hand OEM R/R a buddy lent to me for the meantime... Although I picked up, courtesy of Josh (Tightwad) at Wiremybike.com... the supposedly YOU-BEAUT mofset supercool R/R unit... so I'll be installing it this weekend to see how it goes... thing is it doesn't have the B&W feedback... so wondering if I should wire in the one from the VFRness (which I currently have completely disconnected) or not bother... I'm getting a stable 14,3 V with the 2nd hand OEM R/R... battery reads 12,9... Seems OK but it used to give out 14,6 V... before all this. Keen to try out the Mofsetter... 'cause I'm about to give up on the VTEC forever.... hope this helps people... Link to 5th gen equivalent: https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/66045-urethra-i-found-it/&do=embed&comment=773553&embedComment=773553&embedDo=findComment#comment-773553
  2. Looking to put together a group buy for replacement 4th gen carb vacuum pistons. These are the rubber diaphragm that moves the needle up and down. You cannot buy OEM replacements, and I'm not sure if you ever really could. If you have a torn diaphragm, or yours are just old and dry from being 20+ years old, this is for you. I met with Paul from JBM industries. Paul manufactures OEM replacement parts for many carbureted bikes, including isolator boots. Mike Norman used them on his NC35, and if they are good enough for him, they must be pretty good. He is confident in being able to make replacements. Because these diaphragms are only applicable for the 4th gen VFR, he would need a full order to cover his costs to make the initial batch. If you know other bikes that use these same diaphragms, let me know. http://jbmindustries.com/ Only the rubber diaphragm will be provided. Read through JBM's page on replacement instructions, but these will involve clipping the plastic ring off and gluing the new rubber on. He will mold in extra thickness to have the rubber replace the ring, as he has done with over parts. If you are not confident on replacing them yourself, we can work on having someone replace them for you. I will be providing a sacrificial set of parts for him to do his prototyping on if we make the orders. For Paul to go through with this, he needs a commitment of 30 sets at $80 per set of 4. This does not include shipping. He normally handles production of new molds and products at the beginning of winter, but will confirm if we get sufficient orders. Sign up, ask around, lets see if we can make this happen. I'm starting off with 3. Order list: (8/1/2018) 1. YoshiHNS 2. YoshiHNS 3. YoshiHNS 4. COS_VFR 5. SamW 6. Marsman99 7. scottbott 8. burnes45 9. LauraM 10. rangemaster 11. magpie114 12. Smack 13. Smack 14.vfrgo 15. vfrg0 16-26. Billy C 27. COS_VFR 28. kevinmacdonald 29. 30. @kgsmotorcycles @Dutchy @mcrwt644
  3. From the album: Superballs' '99 VFR 800 Interceptor

    After first really good wash since getting bike. Port side.
  4. From the album: Superballs' '99 VFR 800 Interceptor

    First really good cleaning since I picked this bike up This is the starboard side.
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