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Hi Folks, I have a low-mileage unit for sale which is currently boxed up ready for my return to Oz. However, if you're in the Americas, UK or Europe, now would be the time to get it as the shipping from Peru (Sth. America) would be cheaper. $USD500.00 + Postage Postage USA Certified Economy S/.294.10 Certified Priority S/.357.00 Express S/.428.60 UK Certified Economy S/.327.00 Certified Priority S/.376.60 Express S/.488.50 https://www.serpost.com.pe/Cliente/CalculadoraTarifa If you can't access the above page you may need to use a VPN. Hasta luego.

Does anyone run with replica Yosi or Akra slip ons on their 6th gen? I have a 2002 with staintunes but I hate the look of them (they look very 90s) and the sound is not all that impressive either. Being on a budget, I was thinking to keep the staintunes pipe from the car to the muffler, but swap the muffler for something like what is linked below. Would love your opinions or how it experiences have been. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...&terminal_id=d66aa675de044d22a4568e9993fbe019

I recently purchased a red 2002 VFR800 and I am absolutely loving it! It hides its age extremely well except for one thing (which tends to be an eye sore for me); the big outdated under tail exhausts. Another issue I have with my motorcycle is it is just no loud enough. I run with a Stain-tune cat back exhaust (without the baffles) and also have the stock exhaust. Now I know I can have a custom exhaust fabricated or use a more modern style rear exhaust setup (like repurposing a R1 or Ducati TOCE setup for the VFR) and this would fix both of my issues (make it louder and get rid of the dated look, but I am a university student on a pretty tight budget when it comes to throwing money on a bike. The alternative to this is running with a cheap slip on exhaust which comes out the side. The issue with this would be the gaping hole under the tail where the old cans used to be; this just makes the motorcycle look like something is off about it. What I am proposing is to get an affordable slip on and put that on the side, and fabricate a piece to go under the tail. I would fabricate this by first making a mold around the empty tail with cardboard, filling it with expanding foam, shaving it down to fit the bike, going over the foam with fibreglass, and finally paint matching with the Italian Red Honda paint. I could also have the fibreglass part painted at a shop if it would be cheaper. I have listed the rough price estimate and a getto mock of the final product (slip on not included in the mock up). I would love to get your guys opinion on this, the level of difficulty this would be, and if this is a pipe dream or something that is actually realistic and a good idea. Thanks. Cost Estimate: - Shorty Slip On Exhaust - $100 CAD - Expanding Foam - $10 CAD - Cardboard - Free - Sandpaper and Files - Free - Fibreglass Repair Kit - $40 CAD - Primer - $10 CAD - Honda Paint - $35 CAD - Clear Coat - $15 CAD - Total - $210 Motorcycle Mockup:

I am located in the Greater Toronto Area and I am looking to sell both the stock exhaust and the Staintune exhaust for my VFR800. How much could I get for it? I would prefer a local deal so there is lower sick of getting scammed online, but I am open to also selling online and shipping it? I thought I would ask you guys before I post with a price that is too low or too high.

Hey guys, just picked up a 2004 Vtec model in red with 55,000kms on it. Been riding a weapon of supermoto for the last 2 years and finally decided to get something a little more refined for longer rides. Since purchasing her, I've done all the usual mods as listed - Staintune Pipes - Delkovic Headers - Pair, snorkel and flapper mods - K&N High flow air filter - Techspec Snakeskin tank grips - Power commander 3 usb - Some nice sticky Pirelli Diablo 3s - Stedi HID headlights - Clear indicator lenses with switchback LED indicator globes - Fender eliminator The bike is running so nice and smooth now and boy does it sound good. Time to find a nice set of OEM colour matched panniers and put down some serious saddle time!

Note: There are several versions of the mid-pipe for the 6th Gen Staintune exhaust. The hanger and shape may differ. Note 2: If your Staintune exhaust is second hand, inspect the hanger mount-point on the mid-pipe for cracking. This is a common failure point and Staintune will repair/replace for free, or you can have a local welder take care of it (voids warranty). Note 3: Some Staintune systems for 6th gens are one piece. You can follow this guide, just know your mufflers are pre-attached. Remove Seat Disconnect license plate light connector. Remove four 10mm bolts. Bolts closest to the rear can be tight, gently pull upward on the light to provide better access. Remove two 12mm bolts. Pull license plate wire out of under-seat compartment. Remove license plate/light assembly. Loosen exhaust clamp. Loosen muffler hanger bolts. Both have 13mm nuts under the seat. Remove both hanger bolts. Be careful when removing the last bolt, as the exhaust will be able to drop down to the tire. Gently swivel off the exhaust, and remove. Remove the OEM lead gasket from the outlet pipe on the catalytic converter, as this is not needed. Wash your hands. Take a well earned beverage break and marvel at how heavy that stock exhaust is! Now, let's install the Staintunes! Remove rear most bolt on the right passenger foot-peg. Mount the Staintune mid-pipe, noting alignment with that passenger foot-peg bolt hole. Install provided longer bolt and nut to the passenger foot-peg. If you need one, it's a M8x55-1.25 bolt and matching nut. I replaced the other three passenger peg bolts to match since they were not a hex type. (M8x50-1.25, (2) M8x30-1.25) Tighten the exhaust clamp. Slide the left muffler onto the mid-pipe, and install / tighten the previously used hanger nut and bolt. Staintune text should be facing the outside of the bike. Do the same with the right muffler. Feed the license plate light wire back into the under-seat compartment. Reinstall the two 12mm bolts. Reinstall the four 10mm bolts. Reconnect license plate light connector. Reinstall the seat, start the bike, and enjoy!

Or did everybody already know this? Maybe if I win Powerball tonight... https://staintune.com.au/blogs/news/17557952-business-for-sale

I was lucky to come across a mint condition Red 2001 with 12k miles. It only had two owners and just got serviced at the dealer. It has Heli Bars, Corbin Gumfighter,Zero Gravity and a Vance and Hines SR2 exhaust. My plan is to spend $2k to unleash all the factory "built-in" power and plus some well proven and reliable "add-on" power that will not drastically reduce the engine life. Plus another $1k for the good folks at DMR for suspension upgrades. it took me about a month to find and buy this bike, another week to get it registered and tagged and another month to find the parts. The first thing I did was send the Corbin seat back to Corbin to get redone like new. (In the meantime I found a like new OEM seat for $80 on ebay) Here is a breakdown of how I am spending the $2k on unleashing the engine, plus another $1k at DMr for beefing up the suspension for the added power. (Everything is ordered and on the way) 1. $400- Corbin Seat 2. $150- ECU (Germany) 3. $ 20- OEM Air Box 4. $ 60- K & N Air Filter 5. $500- Staintune (Australia) 6. $350- SS Headers (UK) 7. $300-Power Commander 8. $ 20- O2 Eliminator 9. $120- HealTech Gear Red 10. $160- RDMOTO shorty 11. $595- DMr fork kit 12. $420- DMr CBR shock 13. $350- Clutch Porthole 14. $350- Stator / Rectifier 15. $200- Barnett Clutch Kit First I will modify the OEM air box by cutting away and removing the flapper assembly and install a 2nd Snorkel in its place. (Also unplug the pair valve) My theory is the snorkel is necessary, the flapper is not, so by adding a second snorkel it will add power without compromising the underlying purpose of the airbox design. Next steps: 1) Remove headers & exhaust 2) Install catless full system 3) Remove ECU 4) Install Euro Spec ECU 5) Install gear indicator 6) Install Power Commamder 7) Load Fuel Map file Start bike..... 8) Install DMr fork kit 9) Install DMr CBR shock Go for test ride.... 10) Install Barnett Clutch 11) Install Thurn Motorsport clutch case window 12) Install Thurn upgraded Stator, with Rectifier relocation mount kit. 13) Install Thurn Rear Hub Cover 15) Install RDMOTO short reach clutch and brake levers. IMG_4171.MOV Nov 5 Update: Now that the headers are installed, the double snorkel (no flapper)air box mod with a fresh K & N filter and adding 3oz Lucus octane boost every fill up. Still waiting on Euro ECU to show up before I do any new fuel mappings. DMr suspension kit has shipped. Also waiting on 2nd engine clutch cover. First job is to switch out the stator with a $50- el cheapie china stator so I can get my OEM over to Gerhard, along with the engine case clutch cover. As far as riding the bike all week, its starting to really open up ?? IMG_4198.MOV IMG_4213.MOV

I'm looking to purchase a Y2K with a low mount Staintune, can it be converted to a high mount?

Managed to get a 2nd-hand set of Staintunes for my 6th Gen at a great price from a m8 on another forum. OEM mufflers haven't been off since new and needed some persuasion. Staintunes went on easily. Spuds in or out?

I finally decided to take my 8 spoke rear wheel to the powder coater. Had no clear path in mind for the color, but a couple ideas. After some talking he dug out this "Rubbed Bronze" color. It has some gold metal flake in it to catch the sunlight. I thought it may have come out a bit brighter, but this is fine. Pretty subtle. Staintune high mount was put on a few years ago. Thurn Clear LED tail light was put on last year. I picked up an SP1 6 spoke front to go with the 8 spoke rear. Actually I had matching 5 spokes front and rear, but really wanted to use the 8 and return the 5 spoke SP2 wheel to my RC51. EBC rotors and Thurn clear signals were part of last years work. Brand new Tyga carbon fiber RC51 fender is beautiful! SP1 forks were put on last year, but just rebuilt and re-valved by Jamie Daugherty. I had a pretty beat up gas tank on there that I finally replaced with a really good used on. Also replaced the poorly painted original gas cap with a proper stocker. I found a cheap ebay "Double Bubble" type dark tinted windscreen from "Timmy6666" in Hong Kong. Seems pretty good. Cleaned up the calipers and put in new pads on the front. I had thought about getting a load of new fasteners for the front end. I had to have some more rotor bolts and several others on the front were getting ugly, so I was thinking about Stainless or Ti for corrosion resistance. SS got expensive pretty quickly, and Ti was crazy! Ended up just setting for new OEM rotor bolts. Not sure about the paint. I think I'll just pick up a new fairing piece here and there. Only need the tail. And the side fairings. And the front upper. I had Dzus 1/4 turn D-ring fasteners on the sides for a while. I also decided to modify the front bolts between the black V-cowl and the sides to accept button head Dzus 1/4 turns. Also got the bottom connection between the side fairings fastened by 1/4 turn D-rings. Now the only fasteners needed for side fairing removal that are still threaded are the 4 (2 each side) big headed shoulder bolts at the bottom and rear. I thought I had a plan to replace the rear ones with RC51 1/4 turn mounts, but the angles and lengths weren't cose enough to match up to the VFR fairings. Still have the push button quick release option that Miguel came up with a few years back. Might try that out one of these days...