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My '14 coming with front and rear Dynamoto stands, I see not much use to the center stand once I master their usage safely. Is it true that the exhaust has to be removed to ditch the ctr stand?

I'm about to remove (or try) to remove the exhaust header on my 4th gen to fix an exhaust leak. Pretty sure it's coming from the rear headers. Has anybody done this on a 4th gen that can provide some useful tips, hints, etc?

Note: There are several versions of the mid-pipe for the 6th Gen Staintune exhaust. The hanger and shape may differ. Note 2: If your Staintune exhaust is second hand, inspect the hanger mount-point on the mid-pipe for cracking. This is a common failure point and Staintune will repair/replace for free, or you can have a local welder take care of it (voids warranty). Note 3: Some Staintune systems for 6th gens are one piece. You can follow this guide, just know your mufflers are pre-attached. Remove Seat Disconnect license plate light connector. Remove four 10mm bolts. Bolts closest to the rear can be tight, gently pull upward on the light to provide better access. Remove two 12mm bolts. Pull license plate wire out of under-seat compartment. Remove license plate/light assembly. Loosen exhaust clamp. Loosen muffler hanger bolts. Both have 13mm nuts under the seat. Remove both hanger bolts. Be careful when removing the last bolt, as the exhaust will be able to drop down to the tire. Gently swivel off the exhaust, and remove. Remove the OEM lead gasket from the outlet pipe on the catalytic converter, as this is not needed. Wash your hands. Take a well earned beverage break and marvel at how heavy that stock exhaust is! Now, let's install the Staintunes! Remove rear most bolt on the right passenger foot-peg. Mount the Staintune mid-pipe, noting alignment with that passenger foot-peg bolt hole. Install provided longer bolt and nut to the passenger foot-peg. If you need one, it's a M8x55-1.25 bolt and matching nut. I replaced the other three passenger peg bolts to match since they were not a hex type. (M8x50-1.25, (2) M8x30-1.25) Tighten the exhaust clamp. Slide the left muffler onto the mid-pipe, and install / tighten the previously used hanger nut and bolt. Staintune text should be facing the outside of the bike. Do the same with the right muffler. Feed the license plate light wire back into the under-seat compartment. Reinstall the two 12mm bolts. Reinstall the four 10mm bolts. Reconnect license plate light connector. Reinstall the seat, start the bike, and enjoy!

Slave clutch cylinder can not be removed after undoing bolts. Seems to bge glued by gasket. Any ideas aboaut how to loosen it without broken the aluminum cover?

So it appears my rear hugger has broken in two places and is rubbing against the wheel. Ooops. Reading the owners manual it gives clear instructions on how to remove and reinstall the wheel. I've never removed a rear wheel before, but I have a center stand installed and the instructions seems straight forward. I have three questions: - will the center stand suffice for the removal? - any idea how tough the 108 N-m torque is to put it back on? - do i tighten the nuts in opposite order? I have a torque wrench, but I've not used it to that extreme. Only for things like the front brake calipers, sump plug and things of such... By Opposite Order i mean, if there are 5 bolts and you count from 1 to 5 going around clockwise, then you tighten: 1 then 4 then 2 then 5 then 3.