KevCarver

Looks fantastic! Now go ride it! 11 thousand miles... sheesh... How about a low light pic to show off the backlighting?

Cool! I know some of the RC51 guys have done this with the CBR stick coils. Nice work getting them at $9.

Well I did this to the SP1 this morning. I was already headed out for a ride, and didn't have any fuse holders around, so I did without. Still jumping around on the voltmeter, but the high number has come back down into The acceptable range. Good for now.

OK I'm coming to this late as I have a 5th Gen without the extra wire. But since I recently had a stator failure on my RC51, I installed a Lascar voltmeter on it and was reading some potentially too high voltages. The voltage also seems to jump around a bit, as compared to my VFR. Is this another sign of needing to do this fix? I was thinking about just replacing the R/R with an R1 or ZX10 model, like I've done with my VFR. So I was looking to find out what the monitor wire actually does, and if it could just be bypassed when using a standard 3 wire input, 2 wire output R/R. This could be an easier solution! In a nutshell, it looks like I should run the monitor wire from the R/R direct to the battery positive terminal. Is it that simple? Maybe an inline fuse along the way, 5a? Thanks KK!

I've done that on my '99 VFR and the '96 PC800 and have MOSFET r/r's, but the SP1 is still as stock. Don't forget to run the + through a 30a fuse. What does one do with the extra wire on the r/r? What's it called, the monitor wire? The SP1 is the only of my bikes to have one.

Yes, continuity between any 2 of the three yellow wires should be 0.1 - 1.0 ohms. There should be no continuity between any of the 3 yellow wires to ground. That would indicate the stator is shorted to ground. Shorting to ground likely indicates that the insulation on the stator windings has broken down somewhere. You would normally think that the wire has to burn up before it gets through the enamel on the copper wire. I'd be interested what those stators look like once you get them out. Only got the SP1 out so far. Looks like the one I got to replace it. (Both are dark, almost purple-ish in color. Not like the OE VFR stators I've seen.) Used from an '04, but it came in the side case. So I think it was a part out rather than replaced due to failure. Checks out with regard to the continuity between plug and case. In any case, the OE didn't visually have any problems. But it did smell of death! Nasty! Funny thing is I didn't smell anything until I pulled the first mounting bolt out. But it was strong! I put the MOTY's back in yesterday. Not in the VFR, though. Maybe at some point... Still need gaskets and the PC800 Stator (all ordered), and get the voltmeter installed on the SP1.

I'm at 14v with a Rick's stator and original rotor. Don't know how long it'll last, though...

I'm not sure I can come up with any reason the battery (whatever chemistry) would affect the stator. So, I believe I'll be re-installing the MOTY(s) at some point. They are still holing their resting voltage sitting on the workbench, so no issues there. Once I have stators capable of producing enough current, I think they will be fine. It's bugging me plugging the damn bike in to the tender every day... That's why I got the MOTY's in the first place.

Nice presentation! Thanks for the "Pop Up Video" style info nuggets, too. Now I know why you're replacing the flywheel along with the stator. Not having a Vtec, I had no idea about the rotor upgrade. I will admit that the Shorai packaging is a much better replacement option over the more DIY versions like MOTY. But I'm not sure why some people seem to be claiming the Shorai internally is a much better option. They are the same chemistry, no? I'm in no way suggesting you should have bought one over the other, just wondering why some are slagging the MOTY over the Shorai. Again, aside from packaging and ease of installation. Talking about day to day starting and riding. As for the "get you home" aspect; I had my RC51 stator apparently die on my recently, as I noted in another thread. It must have started shortly before my final fuel stop, as it cranked slightly slowly but started. The ride home was probably an hour, after which it would not crank at all. This was the MOTY. After this, I re-installed the AGM and went for a short ride. Probably 30 or less. After that ride, it would not crank at all. Neither battery showed any decrease in performance while riding, although they were not allowed in that time to drain fully. Both were around 10v when I got back. Not nearly enough to spin the big Twin. I'd have to think the "get you home" factor is not much of a difference.

My R/R went out shortly after installing the MOTY, not sure if it was the cause but did not like the timing. R/R's (all 3) are fine

I'll let ya know when it's finalized! But I did find a left side engine cover including stator for the RC51. Was cheap, hopefully worthwhile...

Got to find money for parts. Unfortunately I just found something completely unnecessary that I must have! Soooo, when we gonna put your the '01 back together?

Well, I'm in no way qualified to determine whether or not the MOTY led to my Stator(s) failing. Buuuut, I've since removed them all. Including from the VFR which had no symptoms of impending failure. It is the only non-stock, non OE stator. Bought a new AGM yesterday, charged it up overnight, and stuck it in there today. Again, the VFR had no problems with the MOTY. 1200+ miles over the 4 1/2 days of TMac. Strong charging, started every time, never below 13 at key on.

Otherwise, stator diagnosis seems pretty sound?

OK, so AC voltage checks out on both RC and PC. However, the book also suggests checking for continuity between the stator plug and ground. Should NOT be continuity. It seems as though both bikes DO have continuity to ground on all three connectors. Low continuity plus the AC voltage being ok leads me to surmise that the stators both charge, but not at full capacity. Which is where I'm at currently. Haha, currently! Get it?! The VFR, by the way, with new Ricks stator has zero continuity on the plug. That tells me I'm performing the test correctly, at least. So, seriously? I need Two new stators at the same time? The only similarity between the circumstances being the MOTY. Coincidence? Five years and over 55,000 miles difference in the two machines. Thoughts?