Lee 2002

Send BusyLittleShop a PM. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/user/3131-busylittleshop/

That switch is out in the weather and the slightest bit of moisture infiltration can cause corrosion and oxidation on the contacts. They may be closing and the switch may sound "normal" and be mechanically functioning correctly. But the switch could have a high-resistance contact that doesn't allow enough current to pass to pull in the start relay. This switch needs resistance measured (ohmed out) to verify function. Until you've done that, you've done nothing.

Sound means absolutely nothing. Until you put a multimeter on the switch and see it is passing voltage you have no idea how that switch is functioning.

Sadly, no.

My 2002: My 1968 Yamaha: My 2013: I only include this because this was almost a 2013 BMW GS. They're both tractors... this one just makes more sense for my current situation.

On my North American market 2002 the circuit for starting is: (Gen 5 is the same from my memory of my brother's bike) To spin the starter motor with the motorcycle in gear: (POS Batt Term) - (30A Main Fuse) - (Main IGN Switch (Key)) - (10A Fuse "C") - (Engine Stop Switch) - (Starter Button) - (Start Relay Coil) - (Clutch Switch) - (Side Stand Switch) - (NEG Batt Term (via frame)) Alternately, to spin the starter motor with the motorcycle in neutral: (POS Batt Term) - (30A Main Fuse) - (Main IGN Switch (Key)) - (10A Fuse "C") - (Engine Stop Switch) - (Starter Button) - (Start Relay Coil) - (Clutch Diode) - (Neutral Switch) - (NEG Batt Term (via frame)) Of course you have: (POS Batt Term) - (Start Relay) - (Starter Motor) -(NEG Batt Term) I have no idea why some are mentioning the ECM.... the ECM has no function in the starter motor spinning.

I just did this tail lamp conversion to LED with the lamps that the OP suggested. I found them to be very bright. It is hard to quantify, but I do believe they are brighter. My main reason for conversion was for reliability and long bulb life. I found it worth my time to just remove the tail section to install them. It was impossible for me to get the lower bulb installed with everything assembled. The LED lamp were just long enough to make it impossible for me to accomplish with the tail in place. (6th Gen)

Yeah, this ^ would be a really dumb idea unless you also to bother to pull in on the clutch lever at the same time..... unless you want your motorcycle laying on it's left side. Use a multimeter to check the function of the clutch switch.

Clutch switch. Still stalling at stoplights after 63,000 miles?

We've got lots of great roundabouts too, so we get to practice turning left also. I just received a replacement "Cars Suck" and a new "When in doubt, RIDE" in the mail yesterday. Unfortunately you are correct, I would not fit. I've never really thought "N&P" was right for me.... but I almost ordered "Where there is sin..." I'm also due for a new Rollie Free.

You're really helping my property value, MaxSwell.

You guys are "jumping the gun" thinking the ride will be in Utah. Nothing official has been announced yet. Tony privately confided in me at SS#2 that the likely site for SS#3 was Kansas. A central site like Kansas allows for the most attendees. Of course, there will be rides that venture into Nebraska for those who desire a change of scenery.

You're living the dream. Thanks for sharing this awesome video!

"That fuk!n9 Goldwing is throwing shit up for miles back here!" -- heard over the radio at SumSum 2 I will mail you a permanent, black marker if you don't own one.

Hells yeah !!!!!

Been there, done that. Your photo will become a treasured memory for your daughter many years down the road.

So, more accurately stated, this should read: Many riders have modified their headlights to run the Hi filament in the lower pair of bulbs when Hi beams are selected via "Fixer's Headlight Mod", using a relay so only one filament is powered at a time, with no ill effects. It is possibly the most-done modification to Sixth Gen VFRs. I'm surprised that the first indication of a problem was the melting housing. Fixer knew that the stock wiring was not stout enough for the combined load of both filaments, which is why he used a relay to power only one filament at a time in the H3 lamps. I don't think he ever considered that the lamps would generate enough heat to melt the lens. I would have thought your first indication of a problem would have been a melted common (ground) wire. Did you only have the H3 Hi filament powered via the modulator? If the H3 Hi filament was powered on Hi beam, did your lights appear yellow or dim when you were running all six filaments on Hi beam?

I hope you didn't do it exactly like you've drawn up there ^. If you did, you limited yourself to the current that poor little light bulb can handle when the switch is on for manual operation... and that probably isn't enough to run the fan. Also, if the light bulb burns out your fan will not be working when the switch is thrown. Probably best to continue the conversation.

I've been using the high beam filament on my H-4 for several years without any issues. Do you have first-hand experience with the reflector melting? Yeah. There are probably a couple of hundred people on here who have been using "Fixer's Headlight Mod" for years and years, and years. I've never heard of anyone mentioning a melted housing and reflector. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/73054-6th-gen-low-beam-mod-ive-thinking-about-this/?p=862700

That probably dooms many otherwise good motorcycles to being parted out or the scrap heap. Unfortunate. Regardless, there is some amount of assumed risk on the buyer's part. It comes down to how much money are you willing to risking on the vehicle you want. The state of Kansas actually supplies a bill of sale form on their website. http://www.ksrevenue.org/pdf/tr12.pdf HOWEVER.... as I went looking for it and briefly read through it... I saw that it can only be used for vehicles 35 years old or greater. So in my situation with the '68, this was not a problem. But with a newer than 35 year old vehicle a title exchange is the only way to transfer ownership. Just learned something myself. I guess my buddy knew what he was doing though. He directed me to the .pdf.

^^^ Get a signed bill of sale and a photo of the seller's ID and you won't have to worry about any charges or wrist jewelry, you would just be another victim. You won't be leaving the Highway Patrol with your honestly bought vehicle, though. In this modern age of electronic titles, I can envision many situations in which the seller would not have a title in-hand. Just because there isn't a title doesn't automatically mean there are nefarious forces at work. More likely it means that there is someone involved in the vehicle's history who didn't dot their "i" and cross their "t". --- Seller signs over title, purchaser never gets it converted to their name or flat out looses it and doesn't want to deal with the cost or office-to-office-waste-of-time I went through. Somewhere in my process, I recall someone saying that most states discard titles if the vehicle hasn't been registered in a period of time... like 10 years. At that point, the only proof of ownership would be the paper copy in the possession of the owner, I guess. I don't remember if it was an official that told me this or my buddy or someone else I talked to through the process. As I remember it, the whole thing cost me less than $150. I have a motorcycle I really, really enjoy and it was worth it from my point of view. My buddy that yanks vehicles out of ditches and barns and pastures and storage sheds said he has never had a problem getting a title created for any of his vehicles.

When I bought my '68 Yamaha it had no title, no registration, no insurance, no paper trail of any kind in the seller's possession. The seller had hauled it around on an RV and only used it to ride to the showers at campsites. It had a Pennsylvania license tag on it that came with the motorcycle from whomever he acquired it from. He kept it on to avoid the attention that an empty license mount would cause and he had no plans to ever camp in Pennsylvania. I had to take it to the Highway Patrol's headquarters. They wrote down the headstock numbers and the motor numbers, did a stolen property search, title search and maybe some other things. The stolen property search came up negative. There had been some titles on the bike in South Dakota and Pennsylvania back in the seventies, after that.... nothing. I paid the state of Kansas a handful of bills and they created an electronic title, and because it was a new title I also got a paper copy for free. To be completely honest, I don't remember a lot of the process and I don't remember it being a huge hassle. But I was being walked through the process by a life-long friend who has the hobby of pulling 50 year old vehicles out of ditches and returning them to the road. Otherwise I wouldn't have had a clue what to do. In my case, I was ultimately making a judgment call on the honesty of the seller. I got a really good vibe from him and it turned out well for me.