Lifttruck

I'd be all over a track day at Mid-Ohio or Beaverun!!!!

You can get a static balance within 7g of perfect. If you have ever watched the tire guys in the paddock at an AMA race that's all they do is static balance the racers tires/wheels. We all know most of those guys exceed 120 mph.http://www.nomartirechanger.com/video/show/29 Check out Steve's video demonstrating the No-Mar balancer. He demonstrates just how accurate you can get with a static balance!

I use a No-Mar balancer now. Before that I used a homemade frame (kind of a paralleling "H" arrangement with a straight edge spanning the top of each "H") that I used using the axle and wheel bearings. I had various cones and a drill stock rod for balancing the rear SSA wheel on the frame. The drawback with my homemade rack was that you had to level the straight edges to each other as the Axle or Rod had to roll on the straight edges. On the plus side it cost me less than $20.00 to make the rack! The Marc Parnes set up is really good as well. The Marc Parnes pillow blocks use shielded for lower rolling resistance than the wheel bearings and axle. The nice feature with the No-Mar balancer is that you can configure it for almost any common wheel as long as the width or diameter of the tire/wheel doesn't exceed the rack. No-Mar will work with you when you order to configure every application you may need.

I have a No-Mar! The price of this machine doesn't bother me a bit. It has some No-Mar designed parts on it but the layout of the changer is not nearly as well thought out or convenient as a No-Mar. I've also owned the Harbor Freight changer and used it many many times. It was worth the price that I paid for it. Just like the No-Mar is worth the price I paid for it.

Take it from a former Marine Your battery is junk and replace it. The tender cycled so quickly because the battery no longer has the capacity to take and hold a charge. Stay away from Court Street!!!!!!

I had a little get off in T7 at Mid-Ohio last year and I slid a long way with the bike chasing me. Luckily we both returned later that day to run again. Wthout proper gear it would have been a ride in the blinky wagon for sure. I had just gotten my Knox back protector and was glad I was wearing it under my leathers. I had not a scratch. I wish I could say the same for my track bike.

I've got a Yellow Box on my 5th gen. and the speedo is pretty close at normal highway speeds but it's still off up to 45 mph and over 90mph. No replacement for using the gps as a speedo that's for sure!

I'm running -1 front and +2 rear in sprockets on my 5th gen. The increase in rpm was about +500 @ 60 mph. That coupled with the right tuning I was able to get 108+ hp and a top speed of 159 mph. Here's the kicker I get 46-48 mpg regularly with this bike!!! The 159 mph was per my gps doing top gear roll-ons against my buddy's VTR 1000F. We just got a bit carried away when he wouldn't accept that a VFR (heavier) bike with like hp would out run his Super Hawk. Heck I tried to tell him.... I own two VTR's myself... I know what the butt dyno tells me. Now with stock gearing on my 6th gen doing top gear roll-ons against a stock geared 4th gen the 4th gen owned me. Now drop a gear and roll-on against the 4th gen in top gear and it's no contest, the VTEC has it.

What about those of us who can't decide and have one of each?????!!!!!!!!! :laugh:

I have a Vemar VSR and love it. It's a little noisy and tough to get visors. Visors are expensive too. I think I got mine through Sportbike Track Gear. A good friend of mine was a sales rep for different moto gear suppliers turned me on the the Vemar. I originally wore HJC helmets as they seem to be the best fit for my head shape. The Vemar VSR shell size that fits me is narrower and smaller than the HJC. It's also shorter front to back. I've recently purchased an HJC AC12 carbon and really like it but the finish is way better on the Vemar but I can't use my Chatterbox with the Vemar. I choose the one that suits the riding situation.

I have the Quest 2 and find it adequate. It just spent a weekend in and out of the rain at the VFR email list COTU rally. I have a couple RAM mount configurations for mine. I use the RAM cradle for the Quest with the Q PAC to power the unit and connect it to my Chatterbox. This enables you to hear the turn by turn directions. One accy. that I need for mine is the magnafier. I find the screen seems to be getting smaller the older that I get. LOL I use it in my work and personal trucks and all of my bikes including the mountain bike. I keep it updated via Garmin's website.

it should read over 12.5 for a couple of weeks. If it drops below 12.5 it's pretty well done A quicker way would be to check it under an electrical load. The best way for the "shade tree" mechanic is to install it into the bike and check the volts while it sits with the key on and engine off. The lights will be enough load to test the battery. If the volts drop rapidly into and below the 10v range it's cooked. If the volts drop and they will into as far as the 11's and stabilize the battery may havesome life left in it. If it was the OEM battery I'd bet that it won't check out under load. It will only take a minute or two to load test this battery. This isn't rocket science it's basic DC electricity. All battery testing should be done after the battery is fully charged or you perceive it to be fully charged as in this case. I don't mean to come off as a know it all on this subject because I've been fooled by batterries before. just a side note I am a professional mechanic, and am very experienced with alternate fuels and drive systems. DC resistor, SCR, SEM, PMC, and most recently AC in material handling equipment.

My experience tells me that the old battery you pulled out of the box and tenderized is probably junk. Sitting that long the chemical reaction that naturally takes place in the battery should have left it pretty flat (discharged). Usually if any charger shows a quick drop in the current it's trying to put into a battery this indicates the battery is incapable of taking a charge. Especially a battery known to be discharged which this one should be. I would dispose of it in the most environmentally friendly way you can or as local code deems. In other words "pitch it out it's junk"!

Here it is for PA: Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:26 pm Post subject: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/vehic...e/chapter13.pdf (at above link under sub-section 1332) § 1332. Display of registration plate. (a) General rule.--Every registration plate shall, at all times, be securely fastened to the vehicle to which it is assigned or on which its use is authorized in accordance with regulations promulgated by the department. (B) Obscuring plate.--It is unlawful to display on any vehicle a registration plate which: (1) is so dirty as to prevent the reading of the number or letters thereon at a reasonable distance; (2) is obscured in any manner which inhibits the proper operation of an automated red light enforcement system in place pursuant to section 3116 (relating to automated red light enforcement systems in first class cities); or (3) is otherwise illegible at a reasonable distance or is obscured in any manner. © Penalty for obscured plate.--Any person who violates subsection (B)(2) commits a summary offense and shall, upon conviction, be sentenced to pay a fine of $100. (Feb. 9, 2004, P.L.65, No. and the link for the inspection code in PA: http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/inspections/pub_45.shtml

My suggestion would be to make sure any mounting alteration of you registation plate if legal in the state it's registered. If your state has a safety inspection program the inspection code and not the vehicle code may spedify the mounting location as in my state.