TommyHoffman

Had a similar issue recently. Check the fuses with you multi meter! No continuity. Replace it!

Multimeters are your friend people! With out it that 30 amp fuse looks old, but must be ok. It's not burned in the middle. Move on to the next thing. And the next and the next until your bike is in pieces on the floor. With a multimeter. There is no continuity in the aforementioned fuse. And you replace the fuse with a shiny new one. And ride off into sunset.

Thanks cogs well, already tried that. Should get a 5sec pulse of battery power. Not happening. A 12v feed with jumpers turns the pump on. Just not getting power to the fuel pump...... Why is the issue. :( Beginning to think to may be harness issues. Any one try the VFRness? To cure a similar issue? The fuel pump only runs for a second or so when the key is switched on and then will only commence full time operation once the engine is running. If you have a tester connected to the fuel pump power lead with the key on and engine not running, you will only get power momentarily then nothing. An easy test is to pull a plug and visually check for spark. I use a home made test lead with large alligator clips on each end to hold the threads of the plug to get a good ground while cranking the engine. If there is none, another cause could be the ignition pulse generator - but there are many other items that can contribute as well. If you do have spark and the fuel pump is operating, the fuel pressure regulator could be bad or the filter plugged.

Thanks Swas, Was playing with it last night. I could get the engine stop switch relay to click when I moved the Bank Angle Sensor, back and forth. Only slightly confident it works.... I think its ok though. Kick stand switch is next I guess.

Got the Fuel pump tpo run by hooking battery power directly to it. NO power at the Connection. Checking Relays, all good so far..... Any ideas?

It's been a couple days, thanks for the relies. I was working on the bike trying to figure out the issue. I have fuel pump cycle when I turn the key on. No battery power to the fuel pump, tried to feed power to the pump, but I think I screwed that up. No pump sounds. Not sure I got power to it correctly. I did disconnect the power commander. First thing I tried. Also checked main fuse and the sub fuses under the seat. If I only knew how to set my multimeter I could give you all more data about what's happening. Warm weather is coming.....

I was riding last night. Bike seemed fine, as in there was no odd things going on. Started and ran great. I was riding around a sweeping corner and the bike shut down. It n won't start up again. The starter turns. But it's acting like no spark. The bike got a ride home in a truck, now I need to figure out what's up. The battery is newer. Been on a charger over winter. The starter turns just fine. Checked all,the fuses. All good. It does have a power commander. No lights on the power commander. Have not tried disconnecting it yet Double checked kill switch and kickstand. Let it cool off etc. no luck Any one got some tips?

There is another big race in Bend coming up real soon. PM me you info and I will get you on the list. Tom

Need a few riders to help out with the Mt Hood Cycling Classic. Both Moto Marshals and Photo moto's are needed. Must be able to Ride two up. Be comfortable riding in a pack of cyclists. And be very comfortable riding in a calm steady manner. During the race, you will get a lunch, and be able to watch some of the best Racers in North America. You may have seen some of them on VS. just last week racing in the Tour of California. Send me a personal note and I will get you more information. I am not the race organizer. Just helping recruit a few more motor's to help out. Dates are june 2nd - 5th. http://www.mthoodcyclingclassic.com/ Link to Race website Tommy Hoffman

Stew, I don't know exhaust flow, I mostly know blood flow, but even with steam flow (I am working on a PhD in Biomedical Engineering, and am former mechanical operator for naval nuclear ships) piping directional changes should be smooth bends to limit laminar flow disturbance. Disturbance causes back pressure, and while some is necessary, I don't like the angled directional changes of the sandy spares set. I have not tried them, but I'm not gonna, just due to that...FWIW Thanks for the tip, I wonder if they ship to the US? As for the flow, I learned that theory a long time ago. Not saying it is wrong, but I do not see any thing in this design that does nor occur in the stock exhaust. The nature of the design in the V-4. I was talking to an exhaust expert once, about your exact concern. The most important angle is the one coming out of the head. Then went off about volume of the pipe, expansion rates, back pressure etc. So everything you say is accurate it leaves off the fact that packaging the exhaust to fit that rule, would be a challange even Honda did not pursue.

I had the same issue when I ought some Gafflers as well. I think I went on down to the Honda store and picked up a set of Genuine Honda pads. Every thing was the same ...except for the thickness.

Sounds a like a load of fun. I hope I am in town.

You don't have to disconnect anything. Don't make more work for yourself. Change the fuse. Then pick one. Say the horn. Hit the horn. If you can operate the horn several times, that's not it. When you operate something and it blows the fuse, Bingo. I noticed in your first post you say it blows instantly. Does this mean that you can change the fuse and as soon as you power the bike, the fuse blows? If that is the case, than the problem is linked to the running light you were messing with. Reverse the work you did and re-group. Yes it blows instantly. The running lights and PLate lights were done over a year ago. Everything was fine until today.

I was thinking it has to be in the Left Control pod. I will check that out tomorrow. The Tail Lights and LED's are on a seperate circut so it seems odd that they would effect each other... But then you never know. It is the only mod I've done to the electronic side. The Switch in the brake could be the first place to look. I guess I can get more fuses, and try disconnecting each peice until i do not blow more fuses.