toreckman

Thanks, very tidy 5th gen. I like the deleted rear pegs, think I will do the same. Looks great. Are your downpipes, stock? Its looking like I will have to get a mid pipe fabricated and a custom high mount bracket, unless anyone else has a better idea? Hopefully I can find someone local to make the pipe.

link not working

I think were I am it's always been that bad 😆 I think a dash-cam is a great idea. You don't need one...until you do. I'm going to pick one up too.

The picture link is dead. I'm interested in seeing this unicorn 🤩

Its a lovely 5th gen you have there. Thanks your input.

To remove the cat & sensors etc and mine are pretty crusty. How long have you had the gpr?

I have an 01 VFR800 and I am looking at replacing the stock exhaust system. I am looking at a viper exhaust: Viper Alloy Oval Slip-On E-Marked Can With Removable Baffle Universal Fitment And Delkavic (or Lextek) SS Downpipes, like these: Delkevic 4-1 Stainless Steel Headers Honda VFR800 Interceptor VFR 800 Normally the Viper exhaust uses the following mid-pipe for hanging the exhaust: Viper motorcycle exhaust connecting pipe That mid-pipe is for mounting the exhaust in the stock position. How would I go about getting the pipe high mounted? Could I just purchase a mid-pipe for a high mount exhaust, like the mid pipe that comes with the high mount version of: Dominator Exhaust Honda VFR 800 Fi 1998 - 2001 Can you mix and match exhaust parts like that? Or are they built specifically for a matching exhaust? Is getting a link pipe fabricated, the only option? Also, is there a such a thing as a high mount kit, with high mount hangers etc. for mounting? Finally, does anyone have experience with the GPR dual exit exhaust for the 5th gen?: GPR Exhaust System Honda Vfr 800 RC46 1998/01 Homologated slip-on exhaust Dual Inox It looks interesting, what effect does dual exit have v/s single pipe exit for the 5th gen? I couldn't find much info on it.

Does flushing the cooling system out, resolve this usually? Or more serious work required?

Sorry to hear you got the dreaded electrical issues. Hopefully you get to put some miles on it after your fixes. Did you get a good deal on the vfr?

Welcome to the forum. Wow... you have owned a lot of vfrs,.. Nice. What has been your favourite gen so far?

Looks great

@BusyLittleShop make's them.

Welcome to the forum

That is probably the best thing to do, especially if you are painting visible areas.

I managed to get this sorted. I rerouted the cables, but that didn't work. So I routed them back again to stock and magically the throttle works fine now. Maybe it was snagging somewhere before. There is only 1-2mm slack, but I have done extensive testing moving the bar left to right and it doesn't effect the rpm. Throttle snaps back nicely every time.

Sorry, just saw you are actually getting silver paint. Though I still think that ebay seller doesn't match colours very well.

I bought this exact paint. It is not a good match at all, it is MUCH darker than factory, like a completely different colour, more like navy blue

Its in mint condition. I like the colour too.

Welcome to the forum. Still riding at 80, love it. I hope I'll still be riding at that age. Would love to see some pics of the vfr too.

Welcome. Thats some collection you have 😍

Yes i tightened up the nuts today when I reinstalled the bracket. There is no hole yet. The instructions say to do this last when you are happy everything is set up ok. I am holding the twistgrip housing tight while testing the throttle. Also like i said if i move the throttle towards off the bar it works fine, albeit with no slack.

Do I grease the mechanism the cables attach to or do you mean the whole throttle tube? I am still wondering why it works if I move the throttle further down the bar. Wouldn't this be reducing slack? Also means it isn't a lubrication issue?

Thanks for the replies. I had another go at it today. I forgot to mention this is part of an ABM straight bar conversion and the throttle cables are longer cables (they are designed for the VFR though) and there seems like definitely enough length. The routing is stock and I removed the cable bracket today again as I thought the cables were wrapped around each other, but they are fine, not rubbing etc. @Terry There is no slack at the twist grip. If I pull the throttle slightly off the bar it works fine (but still no slack). But when I put it back to the stock location it will not snap back at all: Do these nuts on the bottom of the twist grip, allow any adjustment? Or are they just for holding the cable guides in? Does the return cable need adjusting at all, at the throttle body end? Maybe its too loose? It is slightly loose when I check it at the TB. As a last resort I will have to try and remove that nut no.2 and see if it gives me enough slack.

I installed a new set of throttle cables, routed in stock location, so no kinks or rubbing etc. The issue I have is the throttle doesn't snap back. I adjusted the main cable at the handlebars by turning it in (as I understand this is adding more slack?) and this helped some but I have it adjusted to the max. My understanding is I need to adjust it at the throttle body end to give me more adjustment at the handlebar end? But for the life of me I cannot figure out how to do this. Using nuts 1-3, how do I adjust the cable to give more slack? Direction to turn nuts? Will I need to remove the plate (held in by 2 screws) that holds them down again to do this? Are 2 and 3 supposed to be tight against the plate cable guide? Do I need to adjust the return cable (the bottom cable)? If so, which direction? Sorry for all the questions, I just cant figure it out how the throttle cable system works, particularly the directions of slackening and tightening.