Trace

That's a nice bit of work! And a lovely post and photos!! :thumbsup: Perhaps you could get a job as a thechnacale wrighter. I just did the same thing myself, as part of the addition of heated grips and radar detector power. I've left other electronical farkles that I've added (during the time I've had the bike for two years) in place (Kisan turn signals, shift light, Blaster horns, R/R fan) where they were, as my splicing was up to par and tidy anyhoo. Didn't use the fancy BlueSea....just got a typical accessory fuse block from the auto parts store. The key thing is to put a relay between the battery and the fuse block (as Ian did) so that the box is dead with the key off. The tail or tag light wire is a good source of swithced 12V back there. Doesn't have to have much ooomph to power a relay.

Ralph, Very saddening. It has been a long time since we first corresponded about acquiring parts for your FrankenProject, and it's been a pleasure to have been associated with it. Watching your craftsmanship and determination is something we all enjoyed very much. That you lived to tell the tale is.....very, very good. Time to finish that clock.... Tracy

I din't see the Thurn thread, but I will officially go on record, for the bazillionth time, that I loathe and detest ugly, cheesy, gray Carbon Fiber just for the sake of Carbon Fiber. And ft it's painted, it doesn't NEED to be Carbon Fiber...it can be proper fibreglass. Or ABS plastic. Carbon Fiber is a big nothing. Except on true racing vehicles and aerospace applications, where it is......second-to-none wunnerful. Otherwise, it's like a big, dopey, ugly aluminum wing bolted onto a Civic's trunk. Wrong application for the wrong product. And don't get me started on FAKE CF. Why fake ugliness? Gaaahhhh....my eyes, my eyes!! And Enzed...I TRIED to get you to let my buy that blue cowl that was for sale in Canada last summer (in the Nothern Hemisphere!!) and ship it to you....by now, you would be probbberly de-dumboed!! I'm sure that was the LAST blue seat cowl that will ever be for sale, ever. In the entire universe. Neverever. But back on topic, that is a sweet de-dumboing that PaPP did.

Needless to say, me likey very mucho. Better'n my solution, done last winter.......... Dumbo Replacement Panel This photo greatly increased the value of seat cowls, worldwide!!

1) It's unlikely that you'll find anyone here that's cut up a horn and can give you a clear answer. 2) You can bet that Stebel (if that's what you're talking about) wouldn't have added anything to increase the size if they didn't think it was necessary. It's already pretty compact. If you have a Stebel or some other style of airhorn, it's a reasonable assumption that cutting that trumpet will change the tone. 3) The trumpet on any horn serves to deepen and richen the tone. Removing/changing the trumpet could make it more of an "air whistle" instead of an air horn, with a shriller sound. Of course, that might not be a bad thing at all if it really gets attention. 4) Having said all that, it's anyone's guess if triming the cone/trumpet thingy will change the sound very much. 5) Cut your horn up and report back, then we'll all know for sure!! :warranty:

No room. It was me who mounted a Stebel under the right side tail fairing. It was muted by the fairing, and it was werid to have a horn behind you. So, I pulled it off and tried AGAIN to find a front location that wasn't in the way of the fairings (nope), the black center fairing (nope), the front fender under full stop compression (nope) or the lock-to-lock of the forks (nope). There just isn't any real estate up there for this nice Stebel horn. I wish there was, believe me! So, I bought a set of Blasters, mounting one on a homemade bracket (simple steel bar bent to suit) and the other just forward of the right radiator where there's some space at the back end of the headlight fairing. Sounds pretty good.

Just FYI to all out there....this doesn't work on a 5th Gen. I tried and tried and tried and tried and tried..... :huh:

I was wunnering the same thing. [i'm thinking nobody knows, since the whole sync-valve thing is a bit of a mystery anyway] You'd need a sensitive, accurate vac gage, or even a single or two-tube manometer instead of the octopus. Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Oooh....oooooh! I have a picture like that! [of course, I learn't it from veefer, HS, BR and other pioneers here! :thumbsup: ] border='0' alt='user posted image' /> Finished Shock Extention Tack Welded to OEM Bracket, and with Top Washer Tack Welded too, for Load Bearing on Frame Mount, and a Flat Spot on Washer for Clearance at Mount

I guess that if you had the Star in your hand, you could maybe dupe the OEM with a Dremel.....but you'd better be good (to keep the surface parallel to the axis) and then get your grindings to a mirror finish. Of course, if you actually have the Star in your hand....you might as well put it on your bike. Plus, you still need to make the rollerized bearing arm and the heavier spring to get the full effect. Or you could spend the $200.

Me sooooo fooooooorky....me ruv U longtime, GI. It will be a few (2-3) weeks until I do the whole RaceTech thing due to "other scheduling things", such as wurk. I have all the parts [springs, valves, F3 parts, etc], and I've done my homework (according to the RaceTech gods, that is) and decided upon my shim stacks [how many millimeters in a furlong?], and.....bugged RaceTech about what to do if I have F3 adjustable internals....and it's all a crapshoot! I'll bet I go off the road at the first turn I find in Florida! I plan to go either "standard" or "soft" with the comp and rebound damping, as I think too many would-be suspension experts all think they're tuning for 1) a Pro, or 2) themselves.....both of which are....nonsense. The problem with me doing any sort of suspension reporting is that I can't ride for sheeeawt! :beer:

Yeah, I guess we should be very specific with what PC version we're talking about. And I'm begining to suspect that it might apply to the "no-PC, no O2, yes O2" issue, too. FWIW, I had better luck with the 98/99 maps on my 2000 than the 00/01 maps. I ended up using the 98/99 version for my baseline. Of course, I have no cat and no O2s, either.

Yes, it IS correct for the PCII, which is what I was addressing. Sorry, should have been totally specific. From the DynoJet website: The Power Commander II was introduced in 1999 and featured the latest surface mount electronics. Additional features were added like the faceplate button adjustment. The Power Commander II also allowed fuel and ignition adjustment on select models. The PCII utilizes "sensor offset" technology to adjust the fuel curve. Signals from the various sensors on the bike are monitored by the PCII and these signals are recalculated and sent to the ECU in order to achieve the required fuel curve. And the PCIII operates like this, as kerplode said: The Power Commander III was introduced in 2000 and is externally similar to the PCII. The PCIII utilizes "direct injector control" technology to control the fuel curve for models that do not possess the appropriate sensors to allow sufficient fuel adjustment using the PCII technology. The PCIII takes the injector pulse from the ECU and changes the pulse width signal to the injectors.This unit allows "Fuel Only" adjustment. For my money, I'll take the PCII, which allows me to tinker with timing and two other sensor inputs. More at for the other versions, such as USB at: http://www.powercommander.com/featversions.shtml

Now THAT's interesting!! Dunno.

Yes, you are confused. The PCII simply "fools" the ECU into thinking it's happy, so there's no fighting each other under your seat! It does this by providing the ECU with bogus input data at various throttle and rpm points, most noteably as HS said above, the MAP sensor. The ECU interprets this bogus data and acts accordingly. The trick is to give it "good" bogus data so it does what you want. The O2s try to undo what you're tricking....and it can try to go either way. O2s don't just lean things out....they can richen them from a lean condition, too. I suspect that's what happened in MFP-2214's case....but dunno for sure. So, there you have it. Buy a PC and do the 330 ohm trick....and save $30!! :thumbsup: :P I urge you to go to the DynoJet website and mouse around there for awhile. They explain the differences between PCII, III, IIIusb, etc....and much other info as to how these things work.