CornPoweredV4

Maybe a post can be made on FB or a banner put up somewhere to gather some more interest?

On 12/14/2022 at 1:43 PM, CornPoweredV4 said:

Agreed. Ordered a Carbtune Pro 4 to inspect the starter valves, didn't want to deal with making a messy diy liquid manometer. Should get here next week or so.

 

From what I read on 6th gens, they should be all balanced due to slight changes in exhaust routing from the 5th gens. Confirmed per the Japanese manual.

Just a follow up on this but I finally sync'd my starter valves to be balanced with cyl #4 and cleaned/rejuvenated my K&N air filter this past weekend. Bike is running much smoother now at low RPMs and throttle openings. VTEC transition also feels smoother, but that may be placebo. Who knows.

Curious to hear if anyone else has placed their deposit since the last update.

Hey guys, the Delkevic 42mm gaskets seem to be back in stock on their website. I just ordered 4 of them now.

Does anyone have a concrete list of what parts are needed to install these headers aside from what comes in the kit itself? Would be nice to have everything ordered ahead of time.

I saw someone a few pages back mention something about getting spare exhaust studs + bolts, stuff like that. Didn't see a defined list of parts anywhere, but maybe I just missed it.

Hi @sfdownhill,

I sent $300 to vfrheaders@gmail.com just this morning. Let me know if there are any issues.

Thank you!

Agreed. Ordered a Carbtune Pro 4 to inspect the starter valves, didn't want to deal with making a messy diy liquid manometer. Should get here next week or so.

From what I read on 6th gens, they should be all balanced due to slight changes in exhaust routing from the 5th gens. Confirmed per the Japanese manual.

@vfrcapn It looks like for the Evo, it requires the YouTune module to use. For the Racing, you can use the feature without needing a YouTune, you just modify it with your Rapid Bike software and go. This is based off the manual provided to me by Yaman and his team a few days ago.

Quote

3.6.6 Engine braking control
WARNING: this feature is adjustable also for Rapid Bike Evo module, but it works exclusively
with Youtune controller installed.

 

Pg. 24 of Rapid Bike software manual

-10% still feels pretty good after riding around with it for a while, I may actually decrease it even further to -12% or so and see how that feels. It really did help improve the feel when cleanly going from throttle on to throttle off, however very small yet steady throttle openings are still quite snatchy and unpredictable. I can be holding it barely open and the bike will still jerk back and forth at times. I don't think it's my throttle or clutch technique because I can ride my SV smooth as butter without these kinds of issues.

Starting to think that the starter/idle air valves are the culprit of this unpredictable small throttle opening behavior like @ShipFixer is saying. Luckily that one seems like a lot cheaper of a fix, and seems to be only moderately tedious. Time to do some research I guess.

Yeah, it's all very highly subjective.

Ok so engine braking was already enabled and at 0% by default. I reduced it to -5% and went for a quick ride; the engine braking was decreased ever so slightly, but not by too much. I felt it could be decreased even more so I set it to -10% and went on another quick ride. This time it felt even better and that throttle-on throttle-off jerk was noticeably smoothed out, plus it felt better on my core/shoulders/back not having to resist the engine braking so much. To me, I think it really helped bring out the smooth nature of the V4 even more. However I may increase it by 1 or 2% because -10% might have taken away just a tad too much of my favored engine braking ability. These were very short in-town rides I went on to test it, so not a whole lot of variety of riding yet. Will have to see how it performs in the long-run.

It also feels like it smoothed out the nature of modulating the clutch at lower speeds

15 hours ago, ShipFixer said:

Starter valve stuff.

I will check them one day. I've read a lot of random tidbits and guides about starter valve issues, synching, etc. So far I've just basically buried my head in the sand about it and pretended like I didn't need to address them on mine, haha. The reality is I will likely check them/adjust them the next time I have the bike all opened up in the garage, but I'm not sure when that will be. Need to study up on them again.

7 hours ago, Mohawk said:

YMMV 👍

What do you have your engine braking setting set at? I know you have the My Tuning Bike/wideband, but I'm just curious.

So uh, I guess some kind of order system needs to be set up..?

Thank you for the very useful info, that clears up several things.

Regarding #3... I only ever notice the issue when I'm stuck going slow behind someone and I'm having to baaaarely keep the throttle cracked open. I end up oscillating from fully shut to barely cracked open with normal small movements of my hand, like from bumpy roads, and it can produce kind of a jerking back and forth motion, but it's really only an issue in this scenario.

I think my problem is just that the engine braking is a little more than I'd like... That sudden transition from no fueling at throttle-off to normal fueling when the throttle is slightly opened. My SV650 had a similar issue which I was able to eliminate through a TPS adjustment. What makes me think the engine braking setting might help is this snippet from the software manual:

Quote

 

Rapid Bike Racing is able to adjust the engine braking by managing the injection during deceleration
(throttle closed).
On most bikes the ECU closes completely the flow of fuel to the injectors until the engine speed is
below 3000-4000 rpm.
When the engine braking control is enabled, the Rapid Bike module handles the injectors giving a
certain amount of fuel, this will reduce the braking force generated by the engine.

 

Click on the button Enable/Disable to activate and deactivate the function. When enabled it is set
with the default value stored in the firmware (it is the same amount of fuel usually injected at idle).
Moving the cursor it is possible to increase (+) or reduce (-) the braking force of the engine during
cut-off. The default value set in the firmware is represented by the 0% and it already reduces the
engine braking.

 

If I understand this correctly, simply enabling the engine braking feature (not sure if it's on by default or not) and leaving it at 0% will still lessen the engine braking from stock, because it is now supplying the same amount of fuel as it would at idle if you fully close the throttle at any RPM, thus reducing the engine braking and make it "jerk" less because you're not decelerating as suddenly by cutting off fuel completely.

I'll hook up my laptop to the module when I get home from work and see what's going on. If it's not enabled, I will enable it and report if it improves the issue or not.

The RapidBike solved the common lean surging issue where the bike computer seemed to keep flopping from lean steady cruise mode to normal acceleration/fueling. That issue is eliminated after installing the module.

Interesting. I don't think I'll end up using that for now as I don't really see a need for it on my end. I just ended up switching over to 93 octane gas and gave up the ethanol free.

Been riding around for about 200 miles and everything feels more powerful and very smooth. I'm liking my VFR a lot more now! I figure I'd ask here first before I hook my laptop up to it.

1) On the default RapidBike Racing config for 6th gens, is the ignition timing advanced as far as it will safely go already?

2) Is there any firmware I need to update on the module, or does it come with the latest updates already from the get-go?

3) Though everything is in general way smoother, I'm still experiencing some herky-jerkiness when transitioning from off throttle to on throttle and vice versa. I feel like this is due to the ECU cutting off fueling when the throttle is closed and that it could be likely resolved by adjusting the Engine Braking parameter on the Rapid Bike. Am I correct in thinking that decreasing the Engine Braking parameter will decrease the jerkiness when going from no throttle to some throttle?

11 hours ago, DannoXYZ said:

Ah, you've got the Racing Module with pre-loaded ignition-map.

Required octane-rating is for most-demanding areas of map, meaning WOT around highest VE/torque-peak where BMEP is highest and knock/detonation most likely. So if you stay under 50-70% throttle, you should be fine.

 

Do you have map-switching feature? You can then have one setting for pump petrol and another for higher-octane.

I do not have a map-switching feature. I assume by this you mean the YouTune controller? I just have the Rapidbike on my stock 07 VFR with stock exhaust (cept gutted mufflers) and stock O2 sensors.

It did feel a lot better on the ride to work this morning, despite traffic and crappy riding conditions. Excited to try it in more open/clear conditions.

18 minutes ago, DannoXYZ said:

 

Where are you getting this info? 

Official owner's manual from Honda says 86-octane PON (R+M/2) is recommended. Using more won't do any harm, but can actually result in less power and wastes money.

 

I know that that it's rated for 86-87 octane stock, I'm talking about running with the Rapidbike Racing module. From what I've read  in this thread and others, you want to run a higher octane than stock with the Rapidbike on the 6th gen because of the advanced ignition timing. I've read in these threads that 91-93 is preferred when running advanced ignition timing, so I'm asking if running 90 is okay since it's very close to 91.

By the way I got the Rapidbike module installed tonight, will take it for a test ride tomorrow.

Hello,

I'm in the midst of installing my RBR module and I prepared beforehand by going for a long ride to drain all my 87 octane gas and refueled with a higher octane. I prefer to use ethanol free wherever possible, and the only higher octane ethanol free I know of is 90 octane offered by QT gas stations everywhere around my city. Will I be risking damage by running 90 octane on my basically stock 2007 VFR with the RBR, without any extra changes from how it comes by default? Just to be safe, I filled up about 3/4 with the 90 octane ethanol free and the rest 93 octane normal gas, but I would prefer to not have to do this every time.

I know 93 is recommended and 91 has been said to be fine, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to suddenly explode into a fiery, violent fireball on my post-install test runs. 😁

Awesome to hear. Sucks to have to spend $700 to fix these issues, but whatever, I'm looking forward to a transformed bike. A chance to correct the snatchy on/off throttle, the closed loop lean surging/jerking behavior, the abrupt VTEC transition, plus more cool features? I'll take it! Especially since I'm currently running a 15/45 gearing and a debaffled exhaust, should be fun 🙂

Definitely need to look into upgrading the suspension one day too, indeed it can make a night and day difference. Gotta let the wallet rest though 😞

Finally pulled the trigger on a Rapid Bike Racing module, can't wait to install it! Will be using stock headers/exhaust and stock o2 sensors for now. I would like to upgrade to a My Tuning Bike wideband at some point, but only after acquiring a set of VFRD custom headers.

Looking forward to really smoothing out the fueling on this bike and adding some much needed grunt in the low-mid RPMs through the advancement of ignition timing. I'll ask any questions I have here.

I haven't upgraded my VFR suspension yet, but for the record I put a new YSS shock on the back of my 07 SV650 two years ago and I've been loving it. I researched for weeks and found they were the best value for getting a brand new shock that's great for aggressive street riding, has a good range of adjustability, and is fully serviceable at the end of its life. For me, it beat out the prospect of going with some old, used shock from a different bike or trying to hunt down a Penske or Ohlins that would probably be overkill for what I'm doing anyway. I never even adjusted the shock after mounting it on my bike, it felt pretty good as is.

They are made in Thailand so the English on their website is not the best, but the payment and delivery process was very professional and quick. Just throwin my two cents out there since I saw it being mentioned.

Got a response from Staintune on Facebook:

"Yes your Gen6 VFR800 is planned for late this year. Look to the Staintune Facebook page for an announcement in a few weeks."

- Staintune

Exciting stuff!!

I've always heard great things about Staintune, but unfortunately the ones I've found on eBay were in pretty ratty condition. Luckily it looks like they're planning on making brand new VFR800 pipes again soon based off their website https://staintune.com.au/.

I emailed them asking when they plan on having them available for VFRs again and for what generations, I will post an update here when I get an answer.

I'm excited to see this thread active again, hopefully his surgery went well and he's healing/resting up OK! Loving all these installation tips too, I will definitely get the studs and bolts ahead of time.

I'm tempted to get a Delkevic SS 8" mini slip-on first for this theoretical header run. I tried debaffling my stock muffler by cutting the end caps off and pulling them out, but I was only able to get the right baffle out and not the left one which seems to be stuck/spot-welded in place. I never welded them back up and they sound cool in the low RPMS but high RPM/VTEC range sounds wayyyy too raspy, "tinny", and loud to me.

At this point I'm sick of wasting time on modifying the stock pipe to no avail and I just want to get a slip-on to start riding my Viffer again. The Delkevics to me sound and look really good (even though I already have one on my SV650, lol). Are there any others that I absolutely must consider?

So is this enough people to get another formal list going now? 🧐

13 hours ago, sfdownhill said:

 

Hi Cornpo. There is not a formal list for another round of headers, but don't write it off. There are about 5 people interested in headers, and that's taken 6-8 months to gather. The minimum order is 15 units, so it's possible that - over a fair amount of time - we'll be able to put together an order.

Thanks for the update sfdownhill, count me in as a for-sure interested party. I hope I will still want to keep my VFR by the time we reach 15 dedicated buyers, haha. If money and space were no object, I would keep it forever.

So far it's a lovely bike. It would be even more lovely with a new exhaust and Rapidbike Racing module!

On 12/2/2021 at 6:45 PM, DivisibleRex said:

How is the list going is there enough people interested for a potential new run for the headers?

I know I'm late to the party, but I'm also interested in a set of pipes for my 6th gen 2007.

Is there a list to be put on or a deposit that can be made still?