Ziffer

They sure look good that way, but I'm gonna hold off on the polish for now.

This is pretty much what I came up with.

Yeah, I googled it and got my answer. I chose not to polish for now. Maybe take them off and polish them some day in the future.

Man, that seems like a great bike for just having fun...except for the worry about running out of gas. Guess it's not made for travelling long distance. And how do you get by on "only" 150 hp? I WISH I could get 150 hp out of the VFR! Is there an aftermarket cure for the small fuel capacity? I didn't know this bike existed. I knew about the MT-09, but I don't really follow the latest and greatest.

So, before installing my WiLD header pipe, I thought I might polish it up a bit. But will polishing mess with the passivation? I know nothing about passivation, other than these pipes got it.

Hmm. Is that the same engine as the R1? But put in a hooligan bike?

Here's another video from the same channel describing how he thinks the VFR800 fires, but he shows a firing order of 1-4-3-2, which I believe is incorrect. Also, the sound in the video doesn't seem to match the VFR800 to me. I think someone has mentioned an alternate firing order for previous year VFRs. Maybe that's what this is.

Anyone find the VFR800 and Yamaha R1 to have a similar sound? I have thought so. Compare these vids: If you start the rhythm of the R1 from cylinder 3, it's the same beat as the V4. Interesting that the 90 degree V4 with a flat plane crank makes the same rhythm as an inline 4 with a cross plane crank. Of course, firing order matters too.

Success! I was able to get those last two studs out.

I ended up getting some stainless steel all-thread from Tacoma Screw, and cutting it into studs. Titanium is stronger by weight, but (quality) stainless steel is stronger by volume. I wanted the strength here. There are other places I'd like to use Ti though. Now the problem is, the two studs that didn't come out with the nuts are really stuck. I'm considering just leaving them. I don't want to have to take it somewhere to have broken studs extracted.

No wreckers nearby, but I want to go with new ones anyway. I will definitely use anti-seize (probably the copper version) on them.

I'm still trying to find appropriate exhaust header studs.

Thanks for the replies, guys. Getting these headers to become a reality took a certain type of person. Lance was that guy. It took dedication to the project to make it happen. And it was well done and well thought out, from design, to dyno testing , to sourcing a fabricator. I really think few people could have pulled off what Lance accomplished. And although many had helpful input, Lance was the real driving force behind it's success. Hats off, and RIP to him.

I'm finally getting around to putting the VFRD WyLD (why is it called this?) header on my bike (along with a whole bunch of other stuff). While removing the stock pipe, two nuts came off the studs just fine. Six studs came out of the block (also, just fine). Didn't break any studs or strip any threads...until I tried to remove the nuts from the studs after they were out. Then I broke just one. But it made me realize, I'm not reusing these studs. So, now I'm trying to figure out what studs/nuts to buy. Is stainless steel a better or worse material for header studs? Are the OEM studs as good as it gets? I've searched the web for this, and answers vary. I called ARP. They said their stainless studs had the same tensile strength as their non-stainless. They also said they didn't make any to fit my (5th gen) bike. I've seen some cheap stainless steel studs on eBay. I'm not buying that crap. I'm looking for quality studs and nuts for strength, longevity, and ease of removal if needed in the future. Also, the OEM studs I see available for 5th gens online say they are 6mm x 1.0 x 22mm. Measuring my studs, I get 6mm x 1.0 x 35ish mm (end to end). Are they measuring differently?

Did you ever come across those jigs? Just wondering. It seems like it would be a waste to lose those tools and info.

I put switchbacks in my turn signals. I just put the bulb in and it worked. No extra wiring required. At least, that's how I remember it. It was awhile ago.

So, I guess my question is... Do you have this covered?

I put in an order for the Grip Puppies and a Cramp Buster (same product by a different name). I'll give them a try. I have the Heli bars on mine, but I still seem to have too much weight on my wrists. I have considered police handlebars. I'd like to get a lowering kit for the pegs too. But at what point should I just go get a cruiser? Do the police bars interfere with the fairing?

I got tired of messing with Aliexpress. That website absolutely sucks. I bought the Oxford Premium Touring heated grips off Amazon. The price seemed way better than anything else I saw. I don't know where I'm going to put the controller, but I'll try to hide it somewhere.

Those look like nice gloves, but holy cow, $250?! But maybe I should scrap all the other stuff and start with a good pair of gloves.

A friend told me about these awhile back. I'm looking for more input. I get hand cramps when I ride. Usually takes less than an hour. I'm wondering if these would help. https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Puppy-Comfort-Grips-Original/dp/B00CP9ADD8/ref=pd_cart_m_crc_scr_fs_mt_d_20_sccl_1_1/146-8143522-0859167?pd_rd_w=ATwnc&content-id=amzn1.sym.43d40513-ee84-4362-be13-effd3899f7f6&pf_rd_p=43d40513-ee84-4362-be13-effd3899f7f6&pf_rd_r=2WQ1B78FKYR6CA5KR0F9&pd_rd_wg=UTSqB&pd_rd_r=94c8851c-9a15-4196-a6b7-0e99d8d6d007&pd_rd_i=B00CP9ADD8&th=1&psc=1

At this point, I'm leaning toward the heating pads. The price is right, the switch is small and can be located anywhere, the leads are flexible and can be routed anywhere, and I can use any grips I want. And I don't think I'm going to need more than two settings. But... I don't want grips that move around. They need to be secure. And if I use these pads under the grips, there are a few layers that need to stick to each other without slipping --> the insulation over the bar, the heating pad over the insulation, the grip over the heating pad. Maybe double-sided tape? Also, am i going to be able to get grips over all this?

I hadn't even thought of that. And that's a good point.

We really don't get many days like that here. If it's below freezing, I'm probably not gonna be riding. Too much chance of ice here.

Oh. Seems like the Oxfords are going to require time to figure out the difference in the models.