chris2992

I had an old computer laying around, The QD connector came from the CPU fan. However if you don't have a computer laying around, I'm sure Radio Shack will have something comparable that works well.

Ken, Looking at the bottom side of your board, the top two terminals are bonded, and the bottom two terminals are bonded. My best guess would be that you could solder in on either set of contacts (one on the top set, one on the bottom set) and it would work. The easiest way to test this is to just take a bare wire the the circut board with the battery in place and short a series of contacts until the door opens. As enzed stated, you don't actually have to take the switch out, you can just add a wire to the existing contacts, then with the quick disconnect you could easily use in your car or on your bike. As to just putting in your pocket, or on the key fob, well that just isn't adding a farkle now is it.

No I don't Ken, but if you want one, I can pull it back apart. I'll tell you what it did, It is very straight forward. On my opener, I had 3 buttons, each button has 4 contacts, but this is just for mounting, you can trace the wires on the circut board to tell which two are the actual contacts. The reason there are 4 contacts is so that when you press the button, the swith doesn't bend, if there were only two, it would be like a table with only 2 legs, won't stay up too well. I double checked my self before I cut anything buy just shorting the two legs that I thought were switched contacts. I then "un-soldered" the switch from the board, and inserted the new wires, "re-soldered" and done. Now, that was confusing, I'll shoot a pic in a bit.

Garage Door Opener Steering Stem Button Well since I am in the waiting mode for parts, I decided to work on the wiring of my farkles and take the time to add some new stuff. I have a blue sea box on the way, and just wanted to take the time to clean everything up and solder all the connections up nicely so that I could quit worrying about them. I also took a page out of Enzed's book. I had always hated having to pull in the drive, put in neutral, get into tank bag, open garage door, back in gear, and pull in. So to get all techy, I installed a momentary push button switch in the steering stem, that is connected to an opener under the seat. This way I can press the button up the street, and just pull straight int the garage. Lazy yes, cool yes, so why not. I was, however concerned about leaving the bike outside and people being able to just open the door with the button, so I ran the signal wire through a 12v 5a relay that the contacts are only closed when the bike is on. This way when the key is off, the button is useless, key on, the opener works like a charm. In the switch, I just cut off one of the secondary buttons and wired on the two wires from the female quick disconnect. Wired the male side to the button relay bike side, and mounted to undertray with velcro. I sure thought it was pretty cool, thought I'd share. Credit to Enzed for the idea. Garage Door Opener Opener Unit with quick disconnect.

Well, bad news. The stator wasn't all of my problems. After installing the new stator, all of my numbers got better by about 3/4volts, however as HS stated above, the droping voltage vs. increasing RPM's seems to be a bad RR. My theory on this is that when I began having problems last summer, probably started with the stator being bad, the bad stator then fried the RR which I replaced with a new oem. However since I still had a Bad stator it cooked the new RR as well. At this point, I can only speculate, but I sure hope that the new RR fixes the issues. I picked up a Yamaha R1 regulator from a 05, huge fins and looks to be a much more robust unit. I searched the squidly forums, and lots of folks with R1's from around 03 and earlier had RR problems, but the 04's and up the problem was corrected. My new RR should be here on Monday or Tuesday, so I'll report back then.

Nice, I have a blue sea box on the way as we speak, or type, or whatever. Also keep us posted on how you like the scott oil filter, I have my doubts about it, but would be nice.

None, It may have been burn't on oil, but after I cleaned it off in the sink (won't be doing that again, got yelled at) it still looked the same.

Stator Re-wound by Ricks Motorsport Electric. A+++++ Quality Stator Re-wound by Ricks Motorsport Electric. A+++++ Quality There is the rewind job. Looks great!! Stay tuned for a result post.

Follow that guide line.

Easy, If you wind up needing some help, PM me and maybe we can get together so's I could lend you a hand.

Charge your battery. It is dead. Something is likely wrong elsewhere though, a battery won't cause the bike to over heat. I see you are from Belleville, there are a few other members close, we will have to get together for a ride at some time.

Got my stator back today, and all I can say is wow. The rewind looks perfect. I shoot some pictures tonight and post them up. Will probably be Sunday before I can get it installed and tested. But a big Thumbs up for Ricks Motorsport Electric, turn around on a rewind was only 8 business days from when I shipped it to them until I had it back in my hands.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...ectrical+system See this thread, follow the instructions, create new topic and post results. A bad stator could fry a battery and/or RR. A bad RR Could fry a stator and/or Battery. A bad battery could fry a stator and/or RR. Before you start changing things, it is better to figure out exactly what the problem is. As you can see from this thread, it isn't always as easy as it seams.

I have heard bad things about electrosport products, AFAIK they are the same company as electrex. Got a call from ricks this morning, my stator is done and on its way back. So far so good, I sent it to them on tuesday, and it is already on its way back in less than one week. Pretty quick turn around.

Auspanol, you have an email. Diagrams done.

There is no problem with running the high beam for long periods provided you don't over draw the amperage from the Stator. As soon as you quit charging the battery and and pulling voltage directly from the stator and RR is when you have a problem. The only way you will know if you are doing this is to install a Volt and Ampmeter. I have one, and when my stator was working fine; High's, Heated grips on High, cellphone and Ipod charging, I still had 9 amps charging the battery. Your bike has something wrong, but untill you get out the trusty multimeter you won't know whats going on.

Simple terms, Diode - only allows current to flow through one way. Also it only lets positive current to flow through, there fore taking AC and chopping off the lower half of the sine wave. But in this case the only thing you are worried about is the fact that current only flows through one way. Wire - The smaller the number the larger the wire. I.E. 22ga is smaller than 12ga etc...... This is true with wire that you will be working with, however on the really big wires, you go from 0ga to 1 aut, 2 aut 3 aut etc... So after 0 ga the wire gauge number gets larger with size. Relay - A relay is just a powered switch. It allows you to switch a high voltage item (lights) with a low voltage switch (handle bar high-low switch). It works by charging a coil with low voltage pulling a contact closed that then turns on the light. When you switch from low to high beam, you can hear a click under the dash, that click is the relay tripping. To have a switch large enough to handle the current for the headlights, it wouldn't fit on the handle bars, therefore you can use a much smaller switch and run them through a relay. Other good uses for a relay is to power an aux. fuse block for the bike. You can find a circuit that is only on when the bike is turned on (for me the license plate light), and use that to power the coil in the relay to provide power to your fuse block. This way the block is only under power when the bike is on, and you will never kill the battery when you leave heated grips on or other farkles. On your bike, I doubt that the factory used some sort of diode to prevent the bulb from coming on. My Thought would be that they are identical to what they did on the 6th gen H4 bulbs, where they simply didn't energize one of the filaments. On your bike there will be a connector on the back of the bulb, I would guess that the right connector only has 2 wires going to it. One would be ground, and the other the 12v supply for the high beam. If you take the bulb out of the socket, It will have 3 contacts, one for ground, one for high supply and one for low supply. What you will have to do is to replace the OEM socket, with an aftermarket H4 socket with all 3 wires coming from it. If you still want to tackle this, I can draw you up a diagram to follow.

Splice - Two wires connected in any fassion. I used the twist together and solder method. You can also splice with crimp connectors. I don't know exactly how the your bike is wired, but my best adcice would be to stay on the low voltage side of the relay, harder to tear something up there, plus you can use higher gauge wire. I used 16ga, but that is hugely over kill, you could easily use 18-20 ga. With electricity, anything is possiable, but you have to understand what each part is doing to make it happen. If you have a full wiring diagram of your bike, send it to me or post it on here, I'll mark it up for you.

Pulled my stator tonight. UMMMMMM, I think it is fried, looks like it was half way in a deep fryer. Fried Stator This is what a bad stator looks like! I'll be sending it off to Rick's on Monday. Report coming.

I'm scared that the paint will be faded underneath.