Darth Bling

Cool, I had to look up the ATE stuff, I've never heard of it. I just read a website that says people like to alternate between the blue and amber versions of the ATE fluid which makes easy to tell when you got the old stuff out of the system during a flush. I also read that the blue version is not DOT legal in Florida for some reason. Weird.

AFAIK, most filters have the "tall" side up. For example, this would be the up side on a typical filter: And, this would be the down side:

Nothing really. If you can put it on the non-ABS version, it'll fit on the ABS version. The only exceptions are aftermarket brake rotors (missing the ABS sensor ring), Carrozzeria forged aftermarket rims (requires a different brake rotor), and a complete front-end swap (since that would involve delinking the brakes and removing the ABS system since you're replacing the forks).

I priced it out once and it was in the realm of $2500 or so. You'd have to redo the linked brake plumbing because you'd have to install the ABS pressure modulators. You'd also have to completely replace you entire wiring harness too. IMHO, it's just not worth the hassle to do. It would definitely be cheaper and easier to just sell the VFR and buy one with ABS already installed.

I found a few threads that might be helpful: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=3125 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=38440 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=28450 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=31607 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=35670 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=34825 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=34260

I've found that the Zero Gravity double bubble moves the wind blast up by about 2 inches from the stock OEM screen. And the Zero Gravity ST screen doesn't seem to move the wind blast up any higher over the double bubble, but it does seem to make the wind blast less severe. I'll use the ST screen in the winter and then switch back to the OEM screen in the summer.

Just talk to the salvage yard today and I'll be heading down tomorrow morning to pick it up! :thumbsup: The owner of the salvage yard said he's been completely bombarded by people trying to buy the bike. He's said he's turn away about a dozen people so far with cash in hand. He he he... :D

:goofy: The VFR is quite a capable bike. Sure, it may take a bit more work to go equally as fast on the VFR compared to a CBR, but the rider makes all the difference. Obligatory track photo! :rolleyes: Yup, the VFR looks like a sport bike! :thumbsup:

:goofy: I'd sure like to find that tire that lasts me a year and will stick to pavement.... :lol: As far as the question, why would you want to put a 190 on the rear? :rolleyes: From the other 190 tire thread, I believe Paul said he got the 190 for the same price as the 180, so he figured he'd give it a try. Scottdash, look harder! http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=37888

It's only listed as a sport bike in North America and Australia. I guess they figure if they listed it as a sport touring bike, no body would buy it. Ah, the power of marketing. :goofy: UK: Sport Tourer Spain: Sport Tourer France: Road / Grand Touring Germany: Tourer / Sport Tourer Australia: Sport Canada: Sport

I found these on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-93-VFR-7...sspagenameZWDVW It's the only set on ebay that I can find. Consider one new rotor would cost $300, I'd so go for this one and try to win the auction. :thumbsup: Also, the part number for a left front rotor for the 3rd gen is 45351-MS8-020. I did a reverse lookup on RonAyers and found that this is the same rotor used on the 90-96 CBR1000F and the 95-02 ST1100, so that'll help increase your search possibilities. So, depending on how the auction goes for those VFR750 rotors on ebay, you may be interested in this ST1100 front wheel: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-honda-st...sspagenameZWDVW

I'm getting it for $4300. It's just a tad outside of my price range, but it does have clear title. The last '07 CBR600 the salvage yard had was $3400, so basicially I'm paying an extra $1000 just for a clear title. I figure I'll be down $5500 or so once I get it all fixed up and looking nice again. My plan is to put superbike handlebars on my VFR and use it for touring duty. Daily rides up into the mountains and track days will be reserved for the CBR now. :D

Not sure it's possible on a 6th gen (I know it was on previous generations), but could they flip the rear eccentric around so it's on top instead of on the bottom? :unsure: This ought to buy him another inch or so without the possible binding problem you mentioned.

Very nice! That design is awesome! :thumbsup:

There's a center rib running down the middle of the rims that the weights clip on to. I'm sure after many, many tire changes, you may have a tiny scratch here or there. But I wouldn't worry about it too much, I'd be more worried about the the shop scratching your rims with their machine.

My guess is that they'll probably use the regular clip-on weights. Since they are a Honda dealership, they should have a ton of those around. :thumbsup:

That is an inexpensive way to do it but the no-mar is far and away better. nomartirechanger.com No doubt that Nomar changer is fair superior, but I'm not going to spend $595 when my $80 harbor freight tire changer plus $99 Nomar bar can do the same job for less money. JM2¢ :rolleyes:

Wow, for $137, you could be well on your way to owning your own tire mounting equipment: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.p...st&p=437866 http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=36984

I've been looking for quite a while now at getting another bike to accompany by VFR. The main reason behind my decision is that I'm afraid that I'm eventually going to crash my VFR at the track. And, if I were to do that, I'd be hurting pretty bad. The VFR is my only bike and if it got wrecked, I'd have to spend a ton of money to fix it back up. But, if I had another bike (especially a bike I could buy sharkskinz for), I wouldn't have to worry about that. :salesman: So, I've been trolling around WERA boards and my local racing forums looking for a track bike, but so far nothings come close to my price range. I did check out an RC51 here locally that a guy raced and was getting rid of it because he already had two other race bikes. His current bike was the GSXR1000, but he just picked up a salvaged Ducati 1098 and was getting ready to convert it to track (hence why he was selling the RC51 to pay upgrades for the 1098). Now, this got me thinking: if I could find a wrecked bike from a salvage yard, I could put it back together and I'd have me a track bike. Ever since the 2007 CBR600RR came out, I've been drooling over it. I've heard nothing but good things about it and it looks fantastic. Unfortunately, I just never could justify spending that much money for a new bike. And, even used ones are going for $7000+. But, if I could find a wreck/salvaged CBR... So, I've been in contact with this salvage yard and they just got a 2007 CBR600RR in with a clean title. Most of the damage is superficial. The only major damage is a bent subframe, missing exhaust pipe, and missing right headlight. I’ll be picking the bike up next Wednesday from the salvage yard. Once I get it fixed back up, I'll post some pictures of it on the forum! :thumbsup:

Nice work Bailey! :thumbsup: The only thing I have to add is this: the longer 3.5" filters are a lot easier to install on the 6th gen if you've removed the evap canister.

I've typically used nothing but high mileage tires (like Metzler's Z6 or Pirelli's Diablo Strada). I've never had a problem with these tires in the corners. They should have more than enough grip for you in the corners, assuming the roads are dry and clean and you're smooth on the gas and brakes. Check out this thread. It's about a sport touring tire test: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=34905

I've been running mismatched tires for the last 10k miles or so. Sometimes the stickier tire is up front, other times it's the rear. I haven't crash and burned to death yet. :goofy: I am keeping my tires in the same "family" though: Pirelli and Metzler.

The only motorcycle study that I know of that even deals with daytime use of high beams was the Hurt Report, and it concluded that "using the high beam of a motorcycle’s headlight during the day also helps to prevent violations of the motorcyclist’s right-of-way." We've all heard the "I didn't see him" excuse from drivers. But I've yet to hear anybody claim that the reason they got into an accident with a motorcycle was because they were blinded by the bike's headlight. :deer:

By law, the modulater must have a light sensor so it deactivates at night (or in low light situations). The system shall include a sensor mounted with the axis of its sensing element perpendicular to a horizontal plane. Headlamp modulation shall cease whenever the level of light emitted by a tungsten filament light operating at 3000[deg] Kelvin is either less than 270 lux (25 foot-candles) of direct light for upward pointing sensors or less than 60 lux (5.6 foot-candles) of reflected light for downward pointing sensors. The light is measured by a silicon cell type light meter that is located at the sensor and pointing in the same direction as the sensor. A Kodak Gray Card (Kodak R-27) is placed at ground level to simulate the road surface in testing downward pointing sensors. As far being a bad idea, I have to disagreed. Anything to get people to notice you before they pull out in front of you is good. So if that involves using your high beams during the day, modulated or not, then I believe it's a good idea. I just can't see how it could be bad thing. If you could provide some insight into why, I would certainly appreciate it (seriously, I'm not trying to be a sarcastic ass here, please share your ideas with us). I know quite a few riders who ride with their high beams on during the day (I'm not one of them), and you really do notice them more.

Nope. It's perfectly legal to wire the modulator up so it flashes the high beams. As per the Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard: "A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity..."