eNiMaLx

I'll give that a try, thanks!

I replaced both the CCTs 3000 mi ago. I just synchronized the starter valves. With the idle rpm set at anything below 2,000 rpm, 1st gear with no throttle (crawling) results in the bike hesitating until I pull in the clutch. In higher gears low rpms also result in the same hesitation. The noise is worse the nearer to 1,000 rpm I set the idle to.

It turned out to be either the secondary master cylinder seal and/or me bleeding it incorrectly. I ended up following Kev's Shed's procedure to the letter after rebuilding it and the rear brake works perfectly now.

Is there a way to determine whether it's the seal of the master cylinder or the secondary cylinder that has failed? Is there also a way to eliminate caliper piston seals from being the culprits? Other than a spongy brake pedal other symptoms are a very hard to retract rear caliper middle piston, and air coming out of the left proportional control valve bleed nipple and the rear caliper middle bleed nipple when attempting to bleed them. The reason I'm confused is that previously the brake pedal still retained its full pressure (for 6000 km since its last service in fact) despite still exhibiting the air bleeding symptom on the secondary cylinder side, making me think that maybe it's normal. On one hand everything seems to point to the secondary cylinder seal, on the other I'm thinking that maybe it's the rear caliper middle piston seal after all. During those 6000 km I rode very hard without realizing that that rear middle piston was sticking. I only realized it after going through new rear brake pads in 6000 km with little to no rear brake use lol, so my reasoning is that maybe the high temperatures and pressures involved from the very hard to retract middle piston coupled with my heavy throttle hand possibly made the seal go bad. Furthermore during the last service I also had to heat the sliding pin with a torch to free the allen bolt, maybe I left the heat on for too long so that also maybe contributed to the seal going bad. In fact after the heating I noticed a lot of rusty brake fluid coming out of the rear caliper during the bleeding procedure, so even though I did my best to flush it out as much as possible with new fluid maybe some remained and further contributed to wearing out the caliper piston seal. All help is greatly appreciated!

Wait a minute, is it the same for both? It looks suspiciously similar to the bottom picture under the crankcase section.

Hi, anybody know the part numbers for the coolant washers the service manual specifies to replace along with changing the coolant? I found the one on the top picture under the water pump section (90463-ML7-000) but can't for my life find the one on the bottom picture 🤔.

Well, when you put it that way... I guess I'm going to go with a naked bike even though my love will always be in full-fairing bikes. I'm sticking with the Japanese brands for now as I don't have the money to maintain exotic bikes haha...

Today marks exactly 1 month since I got my license and my 2003 VFR800. In that time, I've ridden 2500 miles, of which 300 miles were in pure hard twisties. I've pushed it near to its limits at low speeds in an empty parking lot, I almost managed to drag my knee in that same parking lot, I've ridden it on highways and beautiful backroads in all conditions save for cold weather, I've done small unintentional wheelies that happened when I went full throttle with a passenger, I've gotten used to the sport touring position, and I've become mechanically intimate with it replacing the tires, replacing the chain and sprocket, rebuilding both forks and reinstalling the OEM exhaust. I think all I'm missing is a track day and riding in the cold, but I think I'm already bored of the VFR800... The V4 engine sounds nice (I personally prefer it with the stock exhaust vs the un-baffled Leo Vince the previous owner put on it), but I was expecting the 3.4 s 0-60 acceleration to overwhelm me. Instead, all it does now is leave me with a feeling of wanting more. I really thought I would keep this VFR800 forever, but after having ridden it for some extensive time now, I think I'm now going to replace it with a liter bike :(.... I guess it's farewell now. You were a great sport tourer in the short time I had you. You were a great first bike, yet you excelled at nothing and perhaps that's why we were never meant to be together forever.

It doesn't look like your mods did much lol. If the dyno reads 10% low then I can see it, but otherwise....

Woah. The rear wheel looks minuscule compared to the front one lol. I didn't know mismatched wheel sizes was also an OEM thing.

You should also replace the allen bolts on the side fairings with regular 6M hex bolts with washers. I don't know if it's just from the previous owner's mechanic, but the lower ones were really hard to remove and the heads all ended up stripping once it was my turn to crack them loose and I ended up having to drill holes into them and using a screw extractor. Allen bolts suck.

I found that the low position of the handlebars will put excessive pressure on my knee caps during riding. 0.75" bar risers and my problem was solved. Your mileage may vary as I'm 5'11.5" tall with an inseam of 32".

I can attest to the Dowco Guardian cover's quality. The water runs off the bike cover like magic. The large size fits to a T, though one might need the x-large size to fit the side covers.

Dirty air filter? Dirty fuel injectors? Something wrong with the spark plugs? Replacing the air filter is easy. For dirty fuel injectors I recommend running half a bottle of seafoam per full tank of gas. You'll have to get down and dirty to check your spark plugs. I recommend doing it on an empty gas of tank, and you don't need to remove the gas tank as you can remove the swinging bolts and swing it all the way to the rear of the bike while resting it on something soft and securing it with rope. Re-use torque is 1/8-1/4 turn after it seats and the replacement spec is if a 1 mm feeler gauge fits in there.

LED technology has gone a long way since 3 years ago. The beam pattern of the Hikari Ultra's is excellent if you couldn't make it out in the picture I posted, and it's readily available on Amazon with Prime shipping. All you gotta make sure is aim it dead straight from 25 ft away with you sitting on the bike. Not that the aiming does much when you accelerate or brake lol. And it's a direct plug-in on the North American 6th gen's.