GreenOnion84

I purchased the adapter plate from roadstercycle.com. With the plate, I used only one of their bolts to secure it to the bike (the top one) and then rotated it so the FH020AA was no longer canted downward at an angle. Mine sits facing directly right and fits good.

I didn't see this posted but if you're still looking for an R/R, I'd pick up a Mofset R/R (FH020AA) from Roadstercycle.com. They're the new style of R/R and for $150 you can get the all the wiring premade to go with it so it charges directly to the battery with thicker wires. The only downfall to these bikes is the charging system, so upgrading to the newer mofset style R/R with upgraded wiring will help you a great deal in the future. I bought a Rick's stator and regulator for mine and ended up throwing away the regulator. It was garbage. The stator I got came with a pinched wire and while they replaced it and tested it for me, the entire process took about 2 weeks for shipping back and forth and cost me an extra $35 in shipping costs. I'd skip the Rick's regulator and go Mofset.

Yes, wiring is standard and there are no added accessories. I do have a voltmeter I ordered but don't want to put it in until I get everything situated. I'm just going to order the FH020AA Super Mofset kit from roadstercycle.com. I was considering getting the FH847, which I still may, however when I called them on the phone they said unless I plan on doing track days with the bike or having the headlights unplugged then I probably don't need that one and to go with the $150 kit. Which comes with the Mofset regulator and all the upgraded wiring that bypasses all that stock garbage. I just won't be able to do it until late July.

Okay, thank you. I tested the stator while hot and it would appear it's actually good. All stator legs go up past 60 AC when revved around 5k and up. I'm starting to wonder if the regulator went bad from the old stator that was bad. I conducted a diode test that they say to try online, but who the hell knows. the DC voltage I got from testing 11.2-12.2 was tested on the wires directly from the regulator. It heats up incredibly quick and is too hot to touch or I'll get burned. Rick's told me it's not good for the regulator to sit while idle, but lets be realistic, if you get stuck in a traffic jam your bike is going to be idling and not getting good air flow. I think I may just fork out the $160 and get the super mosfet kit from roadstercycle.com. Unfortunately I won't be able to do it until after my vacation which gets done near the end of July. I'm running out of days because I leave and will be across the country starting the 10th. Basically anything I order to attempt to fix it at this point is not even likely to arrive in time.

Tomorrow I’ll attach my old regulator and see if it’s any different. However, it’s the entire bike frame. It’s too hot to touch.

Well. The stator is putting out the right numbers. Installed it today and put the new Ricks regulator on. Took it for a ride. Tested it after the ride again to make sure it was still putting out good numbers. Stator is putting out good numbers. On initial startup, revving to 5k gave me 14.2V. Went to for the ride and tested it when I got back home. 11.2 at Idle 12.2V at 5K rpm. So, as before, it’s not charging when it’s warm. again, I tested the regulator using the method ricks says to use and it showed no bad diodes. Is it normal for the frame to get so hot it feels like it’s going to burn you? Is it a bad ground, even though I took them off and checked the contacts?

I'm jealous. Beautiful landscapes, but that is my dream bike. I've wanted one since they first came out. I'll trade you my 95 and a case of brewski's. ;P Just curious though. Do you always put it on the center stand or is that for aesthetics in pictures so the bike isn't leaning?

Thank you. I wasn’t aware that would cause it to short to the frame in there. That gives me hope. I looked up how to do the diode test if regulators and it would appear based on that test that my ricks regulator is still good as none of the diodes appeared to fail and read consistent. So Tuesday night when the new stator arrives I’ll hook it up and test it some more. They did say it tested amazing before sending it back.

I took the main fuse out and even replaced it even though it looked good, just to be sure. I also took apart the starter relay ground and checked it. I unplugged it and checked the plug as well. I sprayed the connector with electrical connector cleaner just to be safe. All looks great over there.

Okay, here's an update. I purchased the stator from Rick's Motorsport. I suspected the stator might be defective because I didn't think the AC volts were sitting where they should , so I sent it in for testing. Rick's told me the stator looked good, but they noticed one of the wires was pinched. I'm not sure if this would cause weird AC readings, but they replaced the wire and tested the stator. They said it tested good and are sending it back. I should receive it July 2nd. At this point, I'm still lost. I'll put the stator back in with the new wiring while being extremely careful. Though I'm suspecting I was not the culprit of the pinched wire, as it sits inside an indent on the stator cover and gets covered by a metal bracket looking piece. Then we will see. Besides the ground on the left side near the engine block, and the ground on the right side near the stator plug, is there a ground cluster anywhere? I saw on the VFR800 there is actually a large ground cluster that is orange in color. Do the 750's have anything similar to that where it is hidden inside the wiring tape? I also heard of a ground cluster near the headlights. Is that on this model? I can't find any information on any type of ground cluster on this year VFR. I guess I'll update more on the 2nd as to whether the new stator wiring helped. If not, I'll be out of town on vacation until late July and again for a few weeks in August. so I guess there will not be much riding for me. 😕

Okay, I’ll give it a shot. I’m going to have the battery tested too just to make sure it hasn’t gone bad with all this crap.

We checked the main fuse and all the connections. I took it apart to make sure it was clean. Fuse looked good and no burnt connectors. Earlier we checked all the voltages and they were reading identical to the battery and the connector coming out of the regulator. I ran it until it got hot hot and the fan started to turn on and off. Stators Amps decreased but were consistent on all 3 wires. It was around 45 amps at about 5-6k rpm, which is lower than when it was cold. However, I just replaced the stator yesterday with a brand new one. The new one is giving these readings. One thing to note, while I was playing with the headlights I flicked it from high to low and the lights turned completely off for a couple seconds. During this time the charging jumped from 13v to 14v. When the lights turned back on to the low beam the voltage went back down into the 12s. Will a bad connection with the headlight switch affect it like that or was that just a weird anomaly. I hate electrical crap. I’m not good at it and franctly it makes me really mad that I can’t figure it out.

Checked it all again. All voltage readings came out fine. Once again as soon as it got warm the voltages dropped like a rock and it stopped charging.

Awesome. You're the man. Thank you very much

Any idea where the grounds connect to the frame? If they were corroded, that would affect it too right? When I search for it I can't find the locations of the actual grounds on the frame.