Siborg

Ordered a set just like that on Ebay. I'd previously looked through the manual and on the page it mentioned a "special tool".It looks just like the one pictured but they wanted a special Honda price of 89 euros... hence Ebay. If it works ok I'll give the clutch master cylinder a pop too. Thanks ya'll

That's not the case. I'm using OEM parts from Japan.

Well thats true, but it almost 30 years old I think I'll give the calipers the once over too. That'll be after i remove said circlip...

Good evening gents, Due to the age of my bike i thought it would be a good idea to replace the piston and seals etc of the front brake master cyl and then work my way round to the clutch and then the back brake . However I'm having issues trying to remove the pesky circlip that holds the piston in the master cylinder. My circlip pliers have enough reach to get the circlip but the piston leaves little room for manoeuvring. Any tips? Thanks in advance.

That's very reassuring. I'd always thought Honda's were made well and theres the proof. Thanks

Shell advance AX7 10/40 semi synthetic here. I buys it cos it's good...and cheap

Pretty easy to remove. Bike on Centre stand or Jack with wood blocks under something sturdy. Wheel off ,don't forget which way the spacers go. Cable tie the calipers as not to stretch the pipes. Start with the clips ons bolts(12mm?) and work down through the head stock (14mm)or triple tree depending on where you are from. Do one at time . Maintenance wise... I would strip and grease the headstock bearings or replace them while the forks are out. Give the rad a clean and straighten the fins. While the forks are apart, if budget allows, stretch for some progressive springs. Hope this helps you.

Sound advice on the rear sprocket. Thanks again.

Good day gents,I'm looking for some more acceleration and have been looking at sprockets. Now ,from your wealth of experience ,would you say a smaller front is better than a larger rear. I'm thinking of either dropping a tooth on the front or adding a tooth to the rear.(maybe more) There is a small cost difference but I'm keen to know what others have done. By the way my drive chain is about midway through the adjustment cycle so re -adjustment shouldn't be a problem. I've included a picture of my bike too on a recent weekender. Thanks in advance.

Excellent advice as usual. Thanks again everyone

That's exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks very much.

More advice required please learned gentleman. So my tyres are well and truly done. Looking at tyres online and the choice of 170 rears is a bit thin but loads of choice for 180. My bike is a 92 with the 8 spoke rear wheel. My question is will my bike take a 180 rear with no interference issues. Thanks in advance.

Additionally I changed the air filter and spark plugs. I opted for the Champion 9698's instead of the NGK's and the bike runs perfectly. Thanks to everyone for their constructive support . My next project is an alternative to the stone age suspension and replacement to the rusty radiator. Thanks again for your advice and suggestions.

Update. Hi all. Ok, so I flushed the tank and removed the pet-cock to inspect the filter-all ok. Next was remove The carbs...however..when I went to loosen the straps/bands around the carbs where they meet the motor, the straps/bands on the two carbs nearest the radiator were loose-really loose. So I tightened it all back up (also noticed the sub air filter was knackered so have replaced) and took it for a ride. And you can imagine my happiness when it ran almost perfect. Still a light hesitation on pulling away but no backfires or loss of power anywhere else. So I'll balance the carbs,new plugs and air filter and hopefully... Thanks all for your support and knowledge.