DannoXYZ

Yeah, if stator-output is insufficient, new RR won't help any. Just ignore diode tests, those don't work on modern RRs.

My buddy Steve in NorCal is looking for his previous bike: - engine big-bored to 837cc - carbon-fibre mufflers - GSX-R1100 front-end swap - last known location= SoCal Last looked like this, but rumour has it that different bodywork is on it now. Any tips appreciated. Thx

How about some fibreglass fairings? I've always used them on my road & track bikes and they hold up much, much better in crash. Also fewer pieces making mounting & removing much, much easier. https://www.airtech-streamlining.com/honda-fairings-seats-fenders-parts/VFR8001998-01.htm My '05 CBR600RR track-bike, converted back to road use. Ninja 250 race-bike, crashed at Sears Point Sonoma. Fibreglass just scratches, doesn't break in millions of pieces like plastic. Repaired, painted and back on track

Starter-solenoid plug? Any new one will be better than fried one on your bike. Make sure terminals are zinc or tin-coated so they don't corrode and burn over time like factory bare-brass unit. If you skimp based upon cost, you will pay at least twice for same job because it will need to be done again in future! Do it best as you can 1st time around! And make sure connector between stator & RR isn't fried as well. Only way to ensure high-current flow without resistance is to tie, solder and heatshrink-wrap wiring between stator & RR. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (F1/MotoGP), military and aerospace applications for performance, reliability and durability. Learn to use meter and troubleshoot yourself, or find better mechanic. https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-a-multimeter/all

That's perfect example of why one must do instrumented testing: 1. cable #1 works perfectly and spins starter 2. cable #2 doesn't transmit any power at all, doesn't even budge starter Both cables looks exactly alike!!! Should strip off insulation from non-working cable. Might discover why it doesn't work.

Spin engine by hand. Make sure it completes 2-revolutions without banging pistons into valves.

Yes, that will work. You can also repair/replace connectors with new OEM ones if there's issues. I use following suppliers: https://www.corsa-technic.com https://www.easternbeaver.com https://motorcycleconnectors.com https://cycleterminal.com https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/connectors-and-accessories.html http://www.vintageconnections.com/

Another source for starter-cables is auto-parts stores. Bring in your old dead cable and line it up with their wide selections. Usually find one that fits perfectly for around $15.

Summary of data we have: 1. new battery = 13.76v 2. input B-terminal of solenoid = 13.68v 3. start-button pressed, input B-terminal of solenoid = 13.34v 4. start-button pressed, output M-terminal of solenoid = 13.16v also input of starter cable 5. start-button pressed, output end of starter cable = 0v, previously 3.56v Now the problem is pretty obvious!!! Corroded/frayed starter cable has barely been hanging on. Now it's finally broken through and transmits ZERO power across. I don't understand the wishy-washyness! Unless you're Superman and can see electrons moving inside wires, there's ABSOLUTELY ZERO way to just look at a cable and determine its ability to conduct electricity. That's why we have instruments to detect and measure things our senses can't. Infrared and ultraviolet sensors to see things out eyes can't pick up. Thermometers to accurate measure temperatures our skin can barely differentiate. There's no way a human can determine how well a wire can conduct electricity without instruments. You've already done the measurements and determined cable is bad. Just replace it with new one and have working bike already!!

Exactly! Seeing zero volts changing to battery-voltage when start-button is pressed will give him undeniable proof that solenoid is Ok. Get off that tangent and look at real problem.

Nope, he's already measured full battery-voltage at B-terminal previously. So now I want him to measure M-terminal with starter-soleniod OFF, then ON. When he sees he gets full battery-voltage on M-terminal when pushing start-button, he'll stop wasting time thinking it's solenoid problem. Obviously if he's got full-battery voltage at beginning of starter power-cable and only 3v at other end of exact same cable, conclusion must be that cable is bad? Especially if he's already bypassed that cable by connecting jump-cables directly to starter and it runs!!! He's still not believing his measurements for some reason... When cables go bad, there NOTHING that shows it from outside. Measurements are only way to determine they're bad. Replacing them will solve all problems. Not sure what he's waiting on...

The minimal amount of voltage-drop when pushing start-button at battery 12.52 --> 12.33v indicates that not a lot of current is flowing. Larger the current flow (50-60a typically), the larger voltage drops, usually about 1.5-2.0v Having such low voltage actually reach starter shows you've got cable problem between starter-solenoid and starter. One more test to confirm: 1. measure voltage at starter-solenoid M-terminal, volts = ??? 2. measure voltage at starter-solenoid M-terminal when pushing start-button, volts = ??? BTW, your battery is dead, put it on charger. We want it above 13v before any more testing.

That's measured at B-terminal of starter-solenoid? And voltage went to 0 when pushing start button? Best to get factory OEM part from authorised Honda dealer. You can return it or get warranty replacement if it fails.

Did auto-battery actually start car?

How did you connect jumper cables between auto-battery and bike? Do these two measurements with just bike battery: 1. battery voltage with everything OFF, volts = ?? 2. battery voltage while pushing start-button (solenoid clicking), volts = ?? Do those same measurements after connecting jumper cables to auto battery: 3. voltage of auto-battery before it's connected, volts = ?? , then connect jumper-cables between bike & auto battery 4. bike battery voltage with everything OFF, volts = ?? 5. bike battery voltage while pushing start-button, volts = ??

ride around for bit to let bubbles work their way out. Note how fork feels compared to before. Then take caps off and measure oil height. Adjust if necessary.

When jump-starting from auto-battery, make sure that battery is fully functional. That is, it can start car just fine. Then connect jumper cables, but leave car OFF! Never have car running, its larger alternator will fry your bike's RR. You are just borrowing car's battery. Better yet, remove car's battery and bring to bike. Much safer, because if there's any other issues and bike still won't start, car invariably gets turned on out of desperation and now you've fried charging system on top of starting issues to repair.

Try this one. Improves on Honda's specs with coated terminals. Won't corrode over time causing extra resistance and heat. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255635817797

no

I like before storage. Just use it in spring. Oil hasn't changed since you've put it in right? Doesnt matter if it sat inside engine during that time or inside plastic jugs on shelf. BTW - Nice looking bike!

Yup, exactly same. I've got both '86 VFR750 and '87 VFR700. Have used same diagram on both without any issues.

Might be some aftermarket replacement, mine's yellow too. After 37-yrs, my RC24's RR failed. It had the PC-fan mod on it, very cute! But, I think 110F Phoenix rides finally did it in. Borrowed from VFR700 while I assemble modern series-circuit SH775 and harness together...

It's same as '86. Just remove cam-sensor and it's same

It should be right under your bum.

Definitely needs fuel-pump. Won't be able to use more than 1/3-1/2 of tank without pump. Problem is most idiot mechanics don't realize that pump ONLY runs when engine is spinning. Turn key ON, no pump action, that's perfectly normal. But then they do all sorts of contortions and gimmicks to force pump to run and end up butchering wiring and bike in process. Ingenious design of this system is fuel-pump relay. It's not just on/off with power like headlight relay. Fuel-pump relay ONLY turns on pump for fraction of second when there's ignition pulse. At low-RPMs and idle, there's few pulses per second and small amount of petrol is sent to carbs. At higher-RPMs, there's more ignition-pulses per second and more fuel is pumped to carbs to meet demands of higher loads. Amazing!! Also if you look inside tank, pick-up for petcock is higher than bottom of tank. That's about 5-ltr that can not get out of tank without pump. Don't buy crappy aftermarket pump. OEM Mitsubishi pump is good. Quantum and Kemso are decent aftermarket pumps