DannoXYZ

also "Lean is mean!"

Max-power is made around 13.5:1 AFR on NA engines. Due to crudeness of carbs and uneven AFR curve, super-rich 10:1 mixtures were default from factory. Leaning out mixtures typically picked up +10-15% more power.

Even with modern EFI systems it's common to find 11:1 AFR WOT mixtures from factory. This is safety margin in event you encountre bad petrol out in boonies on super hot day. Or have clogged injectors or failing pump. No manufacturer would be crazy enough to design engine on ragged-edge that would self-destruct if users don't follow every single operating suggestion in manual.

In that regard, on any bike, O2-sensor is ignored (open-loop) when load is higher than 70-80% anyway since it's only accurate at 14.7:1. Then pre-programmed  11-12:1 AFR is used from underlying base map for safe mixtures. Give unplugging O2-sensor to test 1st to see how bike runs. Won't be any different under high loads because mixtures will be exactly same. The resistors are only prevent FI light on dash. Pretty simple to just do this and tape over.

2 hours ago, Ziffer said:

Because, after reading thru the entire thread, and watching all the videos, I'm still not sure if unplugging the o2 sensors causes it to run rich or (after three minutes) causes it to run a default map. Opinions vary and it's not clear.

 

Also, I just wondered if anyone has done it.

Both. There's always a base map ECU uses to start with. Then modifies these pre-programmed values using other variables such as air-temperature, air-density (altitude), O2-sensor, etc. So underlying default map IS super rich. Then ECU uses O2-sensor feedback to dial back mixtures.

This helps easier starting when O2-sensor is cold and ignored, mixture is richer for easier starting. Then as engine and O2-sensor warms up, ECU leans out mixture for more optimal combustion and power. Remember that '60s hot-rod saying...

Yeah, it comes down to specs importer specifies when ordering from Chinese. Japanese consumers are extremely discerning and require top-quality. U.S. consumers? not so much. When Japan was forced to import  GM cars as part of trade-agreement in '80s, no one would buy them unless they were re-painted to higher standards.

We've been getting crap parts here for decades, just noticed it more lately due to Trump's anti-China propaganda. But it's importers for FLAPS that have been buying at lowest-prices possible to maximise profits. Thus we're getting lowest quality as well. So many parts are bad right out of box and needs to be tested and confirmed functional before using.

Thanks for tip on pump! If needed, I'll replace with brand-name pump with known good track-record Quantum or All Balls from Canada ( also made in China). Mitsubishi pump hard to find here, I'll look for it. Will also do solid-state driver mod to replace clicker, which is more likely to fail than pump itself.

BTW, I haven't had any issues buying from Ali, I buy tonne of stuff for bikes and cars. I look for vendors with +97% rating with easy return/refund policies. Only issue I had was Noco-clone battery-charger that died in a month. They sent me another one promptly and it's been working great! Also bought water-cooled ceramic ball-bearing turbo for my Porsche at 1/20th of Garrett's price. Working perfectly at double factory boost for past 7-yrs. 🙂

Thanks! I've got connectors and terminals for dash side. So I should be able to insert Koso RX2N wires into proper positions to match up with factory harness for plug-n-play install 🙂

These new aftermarket dashes are amazing. Can be configured to use high/low or 2ndary-coil triggers for tach! Way back when, to use aftermarket tach, I would have to build inverter-circuit to change ground-triggers to +12v positive triggers most tachs wanted.

I think I'll not cannibalize,  but revive this '87 to get it back on road. Doesn't seem too be too difficult, something's wrong with fuel-pump circuit. Might be pump, might be relay, might be trigger wire to ignition box. Limited areas that needs testing and fixing. 🙂

Ah thanks!

So entire front end needs swapping....

I'll try the Koso RX2N 1st. That's where I want to end up anyway.

I was just given non-running 1987 VFR for FREE!!! 🙂

Can 1987 auto-style dash fit on 1986? Are stays same? Thx

this:

to this:

Then again, I'm thinking of installing more modern-looking RX2N

Like how it can change colours.

Just came across this unanswered in search....

Easy way is to install starter-clutch from '84-85 VF500F. The trigger bumps are advanced about 5-degrees more than '86, so you'll get some quicker response out of it.

It's toggle-switch you flip to select from 2 different maps.

https://rapidbike.us/products/map-switch-2

Hi DannoXYZ,

Thank you for your donation of --. We look forward to improving the forums with your donation.

Thanks VFRDiscussion

Ah, you've got the Racing Module with pre-loaded ignition-map.

Required octane-rating is for most-demanding areas of map, meaning WOT around highest VE/torque-peak where BMEP is highest and knock/detonation most likely. So if you stay under 50-70% throttle, you should be fine.

Do you have map-switching feature? You can then have one setting for pump petrol and another for higher-octane.

4 hours ago, CornPoweredV4 said:

I know 93 is recommended and 91 has been said to be fine, but I just want to make sure I'm not going to suddenly explode into a fiery, violent fireball on my post-install test runs. 😁

Where are you getting this info? 

Official owner's manual from Honda says 86-octane PON (R+M/2) is recommended. Using more won't do any harm, but can actually result in less power and wastes money.

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/wvl/mcy/d/yuma-honda-reverse-trike/7449522336.html

Perfect candidate for DarkSide...

Is this for cosmetics or actual performance?

If just for looks, check this out: https://www.cerakote.com

For real performance, use Swain. Had it on my Porsche for 20-yrs. Costs about $300.

https://www.germanboost.com/content.php?9987-Before-and-after-Swain-Tech-ceramic-coated-Porsche-991-2-3-0-Carrera-GTS-Vektor-Performance-manifolds-headers-and-a-look-at-ceramic-coating

here's what I got

3 hours ago, boOZZIE said:

Headers ($) + RB module ($) + wideband o2 sensor($) + additional wideband o2 module($) + performance muffler ($) + dyno tune($) will obviously make the most of it but the total cost is fairly high.

I was running an RB (no tune & no wbo2) but the RB shat itself, bike still runs better than stock in way of performance and fuel economy *.

 

If you get a hold of a set you can run it as is and add those additional bits as needed. I'm not sure about using stock muffler though.

 

 

*unless heavy with the throttle for sustained periods. This has been proven 😀

Regardless of which piggyback you get, wideband O2 is cheaper and more capable now than ever. Best unit on market is TechEdge.com.au with full digital interfaces (all other products on market may have digital readout on display, but controller actually just sends analogue voltage signal to it. Display is just voltmeter).

I just picked up my 2nd unit from them, a DIY 2Y system with built-in display and on-board datalogging. Can record AFR, RPM, TPS, speed, etc. for 20-minutes. Then dump to computer to draw pretty graphs and analyse. Way, way more capable and more accurate than anything else on market for about U$250. :)

Colour shows thickness of oxide layer is 1/2-wavelength. So blue ends up being 235-nanometers thick!  Nothing to worry about taking that little off. 🙂

Common 304ss isn't as ductile as 1020/1022 mild-steel which is what most muffler shops deal with.

Best to pre-heat pipe with oxy-acetylene torch before expanding... about 450-500C. In between stress-relieving to annealing temps. Especially if it was orginally made from seamed tubing. Need to keep heating during expansion because it will work-harden. Due to higher amount of springback, you'll want to measure as it's expanding and account for this. Do in single pass. More than one cycle with test-fit will most likely cause crack.

For mechanical pivots, a little dab of silicone grease keeps it smooth for years.

Personally, I've had really good experience with Shinko past 10-yrs. Been using their 003 model for track on my CBR600RR. They're exactly same as former Yokohama 003 tyres, didn't even change the name or tread-pattern! Get about 20 trackdays from set!

Been using their Verge 2x for street and it offers amazing grip. Dual compound really works, looks like I'll get 10K-miles out of this set. When tyres on VFR wears out, I'll put set of these on there too!

You're welcome!

If you're doing aftermarket EFI, then you can use any trigger wheel off crank for speed & TDC reference. Many systems have programmable trigger patterns that may match what your flywheel has. A lot of people will weld a 60-2 wheel onto their flywheel.

Pumps & injectors are next challenge. Calculate max-flow at 80% duty-cycle of injectors. Many people pick too-large injectors and have trouble getting short enough duty-cycle for idle.

Searching Megasquirt forums will yield answers to pretty much any any question you may have. https://www.msextra.com/forums/

Good luck with your project!

16 hours ago, TheAkbars said:

I sure hope I can temporarily ressurect this thread. I'm sure it's many times easier than dealing with a V configuration bike, but how much effort do you think converting a CG125 would be? I'm pretty sure there's no way of getting an RPM signal considering there's no RPM gauge on the cluster making load calculations difficult. This isn't for a practical purposes, more of a project I find interesting.

 

Edit: should mention that it's a '96 Brazil and is a CDI bike.

What's the purpose?

There's always RPM signal, that's how ignition-system works. Use oscilloscope to probe the pick-up coil on crank. If oscilloscope isn't regular go-to in your toolbox, this will not be "easy" project.

Really, only reasons would be to extract that last +5-10% performance out of engine over carbs. On CG125, you won't notice the extra 1 bhp. Or to tune for extreme mods such as turbo, turbo+supercharger, or turbo+supercharger+nitrous. All of which is much easier to tune with couple button-clicks of mouse when changing something like boost-level. But if you're staying with stock engine, factory carbs work just fine.

Example is this custom-built turbo barstool with Honda 160cc single engine!  Has SDS-EFI system, typically used on Lycoming aircraft.

Most people wouldn't notice difference with more lively partial-throttle response from 3D mapping of ignition. Here's links to Greg's really cool EFI conversions on Ninja 250 and Bandit 400:

3 hours ago, slowbird said:

 

 Yeah it was an overall upsetting situation but grateful no one was hurt. Even more upsetting was I was about to start a weekend trip on the bike. I had just gone inside my place to feed my cat and get my helmet. Came out less than 10 mins later to find the bike on it's side.

When the Police refused to lay charges they said because it happened in a parking lot. I countered with "So when I leave the Police station, if my car hits all of your personal vehicles on the way out I won't be charged?" The Officer countered by telling me not to be a smart ass. Lazy bastards.

In U.S, traffic laws don't apply on private property. So cops aren't too interested. Especially if it doesn't make them money like traffic citations. It becomes a civil matter. So you'd have to take them to court to recover cost for damages. Even then getting them to pay is another matter that requires collections. Horrible!!!

OEM on left side and Castrol on right

Wow, that's pretty awesome! :)