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DannoXYZ last won the day on February 19

DannoXYZ had the most liked content!

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About DannoXYZ

  • Rank
    World Superbike Racer

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  • Location
    SF Bay Area
  • In My Garage:
    CB125T Ninja EX250E EX250F EX250J-racebike CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350 VF500F CBR600RR VFR750F

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  1. Post to islands seems to be outrageous. Probably due to captive audience. Sent some stuff to OZ and it was $40 for less than 0.5kg! To Ireland? $50!!! Meanwhile to mainlands like EU & Asia, $20. I guess it depends upon destination's post since there needs to be handoff at some point.
  2. I use edge of angle-grinder disc. Clamp grinder in vice and angle seal just right and rotate through fingers. Practice on old seals. Although in this case, slicing off lip-only with knife is better as you don't cut through rubber-layer entirely, causing it to peel off when installed. And piston-ring compressor is genius idea!!! 🙂Using some Hondabond as lube would probably help. One thing to do is examine wear-groove created by previous seal on output-shaft. Then install new one slightly outwards or inwards from previous position so it doesn't touch at same groove.
  3. Looks like RC45 part has no lip, but not available. I usually get this kind of stuff from here: https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-seals/ . Appears SKF #15922 will work. To help in difficult install cases like these, I usually grind 45-degree bevel on back of seal and use seal-driver to push it in. Gently hammering on exact centre really keeps it from rocking and going in crooked. Perhaps you can cut section of PVC tubing to clear output-shaft and use seal-driver?
  4. There's 2 potential areas that may be causing this: fuel & ignition. Through series of tests which we'll walk you through, we'll narrow down what is at fault. Is it consistent amount of time from when you start it to when it dies? 2-min & 31-sec? 5-min & 17-sec? If you let bike sit for 10-15 minutes after it cuts out, does it start up just fine again? Do you have voltmeter? Do you have vacuum-gauge/pump?
  5. One of things learned in my o-chem classes was "like dissolves like". Personally, I think it's futile to make an aqueous (polar) solution try to dissolve non-polar compounds (oil & grease). A polar solvent works much better. Yeah, I like WD-40 also, or kerosene.
  6. I have one of these, makes perfect grilled-cheese. Gotta try grilled PB&J !!!
  7. I've had MMG lithium battery in my CBR600RR for 6-years now without any issues. It's very basic battery without overcharge or over-discharge protection. So I've been very careful about stopping bike and leaving lights on. I haven't used it very much past 3-years. One nice thing is I don't have to trickle-charge it over winter. Last time it sat for 6-months. Started right up on 1st crank VRrrrooommm!!!!
  8. Yes, this is process initially used for Chevy Vega's Reynolds A-390 aluminium blocks from mid-'70s. That had 17% silicon while Porsche's Alusil has 21%. The silicon-faced bores when prepped properly is extremely durable. I've rebuilt many Porsche Alusil engines with +200k-miles that had perfect bores. Just needed some clean-up of ridge on top, install new rings in and that's it! Mercedes and BMW makes extensive use of Alusil blocks. https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2016/04/honing-aluminum-blocks BMW went to Alusil after their Nikasil engines faced untimely demise from higher sulfu
  9. There are many ways to use alloy liners. Porsche's method in '80s is Nikasil coating which puts hard layer of silicon-carbide crystal on surface. For less stringent non-racing applications, they use Alusil. Which is hyper-eutectic alloy with hard silicon crystals embedded. A precise etching/lapping process is used on final-finishing to remove the aluminium from between crystal to leave just hard silicon on surface. In end, you're really at mercy of machine-shop fitting your pistons. No one has manufacturing capabilities rivaling Honda factory, so you'll have to take huge step backw
  10. Factory surface is as near perfect as you can get. Stable expansion with warm-up. Durable with longevity. Good thermal conductivity. Any changes you may want is going to change these properties. Go over possibilities out there and make spreadsheet comparing all pros and cons compared to OEM. With hard-data, we'd have something to discuss. Other thing to consider is compatibility with rings and pistons. Since sliding surfaces has been reversed from traditional alloy pistons sliding in iron/steel bore, you'll want to ensure pistons are iron coated to last in alloy bores.
  11. Be extremely careful with the stuff. Dilute it lots and never leave on for too long! Simple Green doesn't just etch, but causes hydrogen-embrittlement and outright dissolves metal. Discovered this about 20-years ago on bicycle-racing forums where chains soaked in Simple Green comes out cracked with pieces missing!!! When I brought this up to Simple Green, they added warning on their website: https://simplegreen.com/industrial/faqs/ U.S. Army, Air Force and FAA discovered same (planes and helicopter falling out of sky) and issued orders forbidding its use
  12. Hey, looking good!! be careful about soaking any bare metal in Simple Green for too long...
  13. Not sure on this particular model, but gas-cap on many bikes have fewer tumblers. Not sure if that keycode cuts key for master that works with everything, or just gas-cap. You can also go down to dealer with VIN and they'll cut you key as well.
  14. Look around cylinder where key inserts. Do you see word "HISS"?
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