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DannoXYZ

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DannoXYZ last won the day on November 15 2021

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About DannoXYZ

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  • Location
    Mesa, AZ
  • In My Garage:
    CB125T Ninja EX250F EX250J CBR250R-MC19 CBR250RR-MC22 NSR350 VF500F CBR600RR VFR750F

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  1. I like having injectors cleaned at https://mrinjector.us . No way I can back-flush injectors and swap screens along with before & after flow-tests for low cost they charge. Also make sure ECM is actually triggering injectors to fire. 1. Verify power at injector connector with key On 2. Verify ECM sends grounding pulses when cranking. Check with noid-light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FEN84M
  2. I've had no problems sealing those cracks with AlumiWeld. Liquid Steel or epoxy like JB Weld would also work. Best to get layer on inside and all way through crack so it forms an I shape.
  3. Honda does seem to re-use as many parts as possible. From pg 104 of 1993 Owners Manual:
  4. Some pads have a bevel at leading edge to prevent vibration & noise. If pads i'm using doesn't have bevel, I grind one before installing
  5. Yes, take two DC current clamps and measure output (5 below) and dump (4) lines of RR. You'll see that sum of the 2 will always equal ~30amps. So if output is 10amps to charge battery and run bike, dump line will be 20amps. Turn on fog lights and heated gloves and output goes up to 20amps and dump goes down to 10amps. That's why we have such issues with fried stators, burnt stator connectors and failing RR. Generating 350 watts @ stator and running it all through RR fulltime is just torture! New generation series regulators are so much better. They only pass through as much power as being consumed and that's it. Keeps stator happy and RR is actually cool enough to touch after riding! 🙂
  6. Here's how to spread that joint slightly: 1. place coin/washer in slot between the clamp-ears 2. insert bolt from threaded side 3. screw in bolt so it pushes on coin/washer 4. add 2-3 turns more and it'll spread out joint (reverse of clamping down). 5. spray PB-blaster into gap created by expanding, let sit overnight 6. twist and pull and it should come off.
  7. wow, those Crossrunner rotors looks like quite a deal!! 👍
  8. Personally, I've found EBC to be better-performing than OEM. There's Brembo, but costlier than OEM. Then there's these, no experience with them: https://www.metalgear.com.au/part-finder/honda/2014/vfr-800-f-abs/
  9. Here's selection criteria I used: - all alloy-construction for durability - high-power USB output for overhead when used with low-power devices - fused harness Amazon has generous return-policy, so last resort, I can get refund. Had mine for 3-yrs now without any issues, even with numerous 45C trackdays.
  10. I use one of these on my track bike. Dual USB ports are handy for powering my front & rear cameras so I don't have to deal with charging batteries. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08NVP35K5/
  11. It's not so much CCA as that's just potential current limit. Starter will only suck as much current as its load. Smaller engines present lower loads, a 250cc draws 40-50 amps. Big-block V8 muscle cars draws +200 amps from battery when cranking. A VFR... about 60-80 amps. But... this is pitfall of buying used bike without full inspection. Maybe it's got compromised charging system that doesn't fully charge battery? Maybe that's why it hasn't been used in 2-yrs? On your ride home, maybe this drained your new battery from 100% to just 50% ? Now there's just barely enough power for starter to spin engine, but this drops voltage enough for ECU to not work, usually 11v or less. EFI bikes are much less tolerant of drained batteries than carby bikes. So, pull out multimeter and measure battery voltage under these conditions: 1. everything off, battery voltage = ??? 2. while cranking engine, battery voltage = ??? These numbers will give clues as to where to look next.
  12. Greetings & Salutations!! Quick and easy test is to warm it up in garage and see if it'll start. If it does, we know it's cold-weather starting issue and that narrows down what to examine. If it doesn't start in warm garage, then we'll need to do more detailed and methodical troubleshooting. First step is get multimeter if you don't have one. You'll need to use it to troubleshoot by measuring voltage, resistance and perhaps even current. Next, get owner's and service manuals from downloads section - https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/files/ Spend couple days reading both manuals to get familiar with bike and how various systems work. Then find troubleshooting section for "not starting" condition. They'll be flowchart on what components to test in which order and how to test them. The numbers you measure on these tests can then be compared to standards in manual to determine what's wrong. Many, many possibilities, literally hundreds of things could've gone wrong. But most likely just one or two issues. Following troubleshooting chart will let you find it.
  13. I actually use tapered bearings on bottom cup and ball-bearings on upper cup. Best of both!. :)
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