Bret

Had to sell my beautiful 5th Gen recently and found the box of rare parts I never had time to instal. The big ticket items are namely rare Corbin seat (removable passenger backrest), DMr fork kit, and brake de-link kit. None of these were inexpensive, so my loss is your gain.CORBIN LADY GUNFIGHTER SEAT -- SOLD!!! -- This kit was originally $700 which is hard to believe. The leather saddle works in conjunction with the Honda seat cowl for a cool solo look or remove the seat cowl and install the handrails for two up sport touring. With the cowl removed, the saddle design accepts the Corbin removable backrest which is included in this sale. Saddle mounts to the stock internal hardware for a clean installation and is fully adjustable to provide your passenger with a tailored fit. Backrest locks in with a single bolt. SOLD!!! -- 5TH GEN BRAKE DE-LINK KIT -- SOLD!!! -- This kit allows you to convert your 5th gen linked brakes to a standard style setup by swapping VTR1000 (Super Hawk) fork lowers on the 5th gen upper fork tubes and replacing the stock brake parts with standard brakes from Honda models including CBR600 and RC51. I’ve curated nearly every part needed for this from operational, non-damaged parts ordered on eBay over the past year. The only items you will need to purchase are rear brake lines.De-Link Kit Includes:* 2003 RC51 SP2 front brake hose/lines (part num: 45125-MCF-D31) * 2003 CBR 600RR front brake master cylinder assembly (part num: 45510-MEE-006)* 2003 RC51 SP2 rear Brake calipers (part num: 45150-MCF-D32)* 2006 CBR 600F4i rear brake master cylinder assembly (part num: 43510-MBW-E12)* VTR1000 fork lower/ fork case (part num: left side 51520-MBB-003; right side 51420-MBB-003)* 5th Gen Fender mounting brackets from Mello Dude Garage -- these allow you to keep the 5th gen stock fender and mount direct to the VTR1000 lower fork legs. SOLD!!! -- DMr FORK CARTRIDGE KIT -- SOLD!!! Originally purchase for $595 a few years ago. The DMr cartridge kit offers a complete fork upgrade with the addition of having the valving preassembled - that means you do not need to have prior fork revalving experience to install it. The is new in box (NEVER installed) with detailed instructions that guide you through every step. Kit includes all new compression valving, new rebound valving, damping rods and adjustable cap assemblies. Springs are also included.According to Daugherty and folks here on VFRD, there is no other fork upgrade available on the market that offers this level of performance at this price.Kit Includes:* All new DMr BD Series compression valving* All new DMr BD Series rebound valving* Includes springs and spacers for a direct fit* New damping rods and adjustable caps* Adds external damping adjustment on models not equipped from the factory* Valving setup and spring rate configured specifically for each rider and application* Utilizes OEM cartridge tubes, no need to pay for what you don't need* All valving parts are preassembled* Includes detailed instructions for easy installation

I have a Helibars installed on my 2000, but have had some wrist issues/soreness that I think I could recifiy by adjusting the bars/sweep a bit. Problem is, I can only adjust them so far (not far enough) before the lower of the two throttle cables hits the tank on the right side. I could sure use that extra .5 of adjustment to spare my wrist a bit on longer rides. Does anyone know if the lower of the two cables is the push cable and if it's safe to remove it? I run only the pull cable on my CBR900RR and that works fine, but it's a carbureted. Not sure why a fuel injected bike requires both cables. Any easy answer there?

Hey all. Been a while since I’ve chimes in. Just wanted to confirm that I’m officially still interested in ordering one unit for my 5th Gen. cheers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What might look cool is a short/shaved black fly screen that is same height as devil horns. Just sayin'. Nobody's done that before either. [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I kinda like it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pics or it didn't happen. [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Agreed. Just bought this setup last month. Very happy with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to know! Thanks!!! BTW, do you have a good source for all the replacement LEDs? Guessing the headlight required more than just a simple LED swap. I'd love to upgrade all my lights, so your post came at a perfect time.

Why not the FI light? Curious. And welcome!

Thanks. Will do a search for him. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry in advance is this is such a NOOB question, but after buy a donor bike specifically to salvage a Wolf system, I'm now getting to know the good and bad of having pipes under the tail of my low-mileage 5th gen. Exhaust sounds pretty damn good, but only one of the two tail pipes seem to be getting action (i.e. feeling little exhaust exiting left pipe and, after riding, only the right pipe is warm/ hot to the touch). Seems if both pipes were getting equal or some level of shared action, the system would sounds even better. Anyone know if this is standard or if there's anything I can do? I'm going to keep the system because I love the way is looks and sounds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Officially made the switch. Extremely happy with everything save having to bolt the Wolf gear onto a stock CA header. [emoji52] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You are correct that the Wolf is heavier than a standard single high-mount, but only by the weight of the extra exhaust can on the Wolf system. Totally agree that white should have been an option. I was always totally down with the white 3rd gen:

So today I removed the Wolf system from the 49er. I'm still deciding which color I will ultimately keep on the low mileage bike (now wearing yellow) because I DO like the red and I also understand that yellow is a bit more rare. While seeing how simple the Wolf system is, I couldn't help wondering why nobody here or on VFRW has tried replicating it (battery box/fender) for a limited run with a set of off the shelf/modern pipes. Here are both bikes together. Anyone have a preference or solid argument one paint scheme or the other? Body panels and tanks for in similar shape with the yellow panels being a tad cleaner.

+1 for me as well. Should be performance based and work with majority of slip on options straight away. Though I have a Wolf and have yet to even consider what that will mean yet. Will go measure today/tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just became a VFR owner. I'm 44. Also have a Fireblade project and a track car in the garage. Age smage! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha! You're not helping me feel any better. ;) The VFR projects are not super involved. I'm likely only swapping exhausts from headers back and maybe the red/ yellow bodywork/ tank from the 49er to the CA model, then selling the 49er. The other project has been evolving since I picked her up as a stock '93 900RR in 2007. I did a video around the VFR swingarm mod a few years ago, during its last incarnation (see link below) 900RR SSSA Swap: Back then I was running an early 00s R6 subframe/seat/tail. Plan for her now is to do a complete re-wire using motogadget/ german gear, USD fork/ front end swap and keep the lines as minimal as possible so as to accentuate the wide wheel/ tire and massive frame. I think I landed in a good place to start with the 1098 subframe you can see in the image above that I posted yesterday. The CBR will be used as my in-city, lane-splitting, urban assault vehicle while the VFR will be my highway eating and occasional 2-up riding distance bike. As you can see, I have a bit of a Honda problem.

She has arrived!! The 49 state Wolf bike has been delivered!!!! And here she is next to her low mileage CA sister: The Wolf system sounds the business. Taking them both out back to back tomorrow but already leaning toward moving the Wolf system and red tank and panels to the CA bike. Ah the projects!! For shits and grins, I thought I'd share my non V4 project which is a bit more involved. Just getting started on her. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks @max. Adjusted it yesterday. [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks again everyone! After I learned how to read the code last night, I was able to quickly locate the issue which was a small hose I failed to re-connect into the bottom of the MAP sensor. So now my PAIR system is out! Next up, CA emissions delete. [emoji6][emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Im almost certain this is the issue. Caught the FI light flashing 2 on its own after idling for a while. Code sheet in manual says MAP sensor connection or faulty MAP sensor. Guessing I forgot to connect or the quality of that connection was poor. I'll be pulling her apart again tomorrow. Thanks all for chiming in. Really hope it is simply a connection bc I wanna ride!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From another thread I found: So what we want to do is to disable the PAIR valve altogether and the easiest way to do exactly this is to remove the cable controlling it! If you look on the right side of the bike under the very tank you just lifted, you will see cables and a connector like this. (I didn't remove this guy. Could that be the problem?)

Just went back through the instructions I was following from THIS VFRW Thread. There is still one specific step that I'm still unsure about. Step 26 says: Remove the bolts from the left faring, enough to remove the PAIR electronic solenoid connection. I did this then taped up the half of the solenoid connection that was still on the bike. Is this what's throwing the code? Perhaps that connection IS NOT the one that disables the PAIR valve. Ugh!

So doesn't sound like leaky valve block-off to you then? I guess that's positive.

NO! Was hoping that this would be easy to pin point. Guess it's back in the garage to pull the tank and airbox, etc.