interceptor69

18 hours ago, triharder said:

 

07 VFR800

 

Quick question.  I never see over 220~225 here on on east coast (fan cools the bike back down typically).  

 

Same coolant (I really need to replace soon) but i'd see 230+ continuous while traveling cross country (especially desert in Nevada or Cali).   Palmar MTN especially caused the bike to be at almost at 240.  Besides that day its been working correctly (fluid level verified and engine ice coolant currently installed,  I did f

 

As far as i can tell the system is operating correctly.  Only say those temps a few times.  

 

(Set points on fan are correct here on the east coast, so i can pretty much rule out all of your isuses to check?)

 

figured I'd ask the West coasters there thoughts.

 

What type/brand of "ice" coolant did/do you use?

15 hours ago, BusyLittleShop said:

 

If you see *continuous* temps higher than 220ºF or below 180ºF then
trouble shooting is in order:

 

Continuous engine temps above 220ºF or 104ºC is a problem and the proper
order of items to trouble shoot are:

1)Faulty radiator cap... system should hold 1.1 pressure ratio...
2)Insufficient coolant...
3)Passages blocked in the radiator, hose or water jacket...
4)Air in the system...
5)Thermostat stuck closed...
6)Faulty temp meter or thermo sensor...
7)Faulty fan...
8)Faulty fan switch...

 

Engine temps below 180ºF or 82ºC is an problem... it means that the
moisture produced during combustion is not getting hot enough to
evaporate out the pipe as steam... instead that moisture will migrate
to the oil and produce a milky white contamination...

Note normal by products of combustion is water... . Every gallon of gas
creates roughly 8 pounds of water vapor... we all have witnessed water
escaping out of tail pipes on cold mornings...

 

The sequence of events to trouble shoot are:

1)Faulty temp meter...
2)Thermostat stuck open...
3)Faulty fan switch... (stuck on)

My bike, even when new never ran over 177 degrees when moving at a normal speed.

Duh-it was supposed to be 240, not 140 F.  Temps hover around 176/177 almost all the time despite the season when moving.  In the city, especially in stop and go traffic it will hit 240 easily and stay there until I begin moving over 40 mph or so then slowly drop back to 176/177.  Pretty sure the coolant level in the reservoir is ok but will check again today before my ride.  I got stuck in downtown Nashville yesterday-wasn't hot but warm in the mid 80's-and that's when it hit 240 or so.  In the past when I'd pull up at my driveway and stop the bike with anything above 220 the fan would be on so knew something was amiss.  I'll check the things mentioned above and let you guys know what I find.  Thanks for all the great advice and tips.  This forum in invaluable.

I have a '98 VFR and have noticed lately the fans never come on, despite the rather high engine temps.  Saw 142 F today and the fans didn't come on.  Is there a set temp where they're supposed to come on?  I know I've heard them in the past after a hot day-stopping the bike and the fans were running at around 128 to 134 degrees.

Watching the MotoAmerica races and there's a view of Mt Ranier in the background-said it was gonna be over 100 degrees today and tomorrow.  Glad you got out early.  Beautiful view.

Got the mount but not sure if it's gonna work.  The rubber expansion plug drops all the way into the hole when inserting the smaller diameter end 1st and won't insert at all w/ the larger diameter end.  Can't see the Youtube video of the install-not sure what's wrong on that end.  Instructions say to insert the plug then measure 1/8" above the opening but the plug is flush with the stem.  Did they give me the wrong part?  Or am I not understanding the instructions?  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks for all the advice.  I just ordered this:  RAM^® X-Grip^® Large Phone Mount with Motorcycle Fork Stem Base.  Wasn't cheap but looks well made so look fwd to getting in and mounting it.

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I need to check out the ram mount system-sounds like what I'm looking for.  What secures the ball in the stem?  Friction?

Yes-actually I use Waze for this reason and would only need it for routing through shitty traffic or avoid accidents.  Here in Nashville we have some crazy drivers and one never knows which artery will be blocked.  Thanks for the advice.  That ball mount looks like the one that held my old Garmin GPs.  How would one find a cellphone case with that type of socket?

What type/brand of cellphone mount are you guys/girls using?  I have Heli Bars so would need to be able to attach to them.  

2 hours ago, trmoyer said:

I replaced mine with the MOSFET FA020AA kit from Jack at Roadstercycle and can’t complain. It’s simple, reasonable priced and I mounted mine on the left side of the subframe. 

Looks like mine-for a minute I thought you'd hacked my computer and copied my photo😁.  So far so good. Very high quality wiring included as well.

16 hours ago, Grum said:

 

Bit of a safety issue doing that, potential of unexpected bike jolting forward, possible damage to the starter motor and starter relay.

 

Not sure if the 5th gen has the "launch assist " like the 6 and 8gens where the rpm is slightly increased (via the ECM) as you let the clutch out when in gear, kind of an anti stall assist. Shorting the clutch switch wiring will screw that system.

 

Another potentially nasty situation with shorted clutch switch wiring is an accidental pressing of the starter switch while riding, the starter will attempt to engage!

 

The clutch switch is generally very reliable and easy to replace if it plays up. The switch also has no effect on a neutral start so you still have that starting option till getting it properly sorted.

 

If I had to chose between an open circuit clutch switch or having it bypassed by shorting the wires I'd chose the open circuit state for sure!

 

As always YMMV.

My '98 doesn't have the "launch assist" feature.  I have the same problem-intermittently it won't start in gear w/ the clutch pulled in.  Recently I sprayed some WD40 around the switch and now it works regularly (for now).  How expensive is the switch if it needs to be replaced eventually?

Welcome and get ready for some fun.  Show us pix!

Loaded the Attack map onto the PC III and went out for a 105 mile ride. My bike is as close as possible to the bike used on the Dyno at Attack-headers, PC III, K & N air filter and free flowing pipe.   First impressions are that the PC III and the Attack map result in a much smoother power delivery from below 4K to redline.  It reminds me of how if felt when I first rode it but w/ more power throughout the rev range.  Very impressive pulling power, even in top gear when over 7K rpms.  Gotta hold on for sure up there!  Great work all around.  I can't thank sfdownhill and Duc2V4 for all the hard work to get these headers built and shipped as well as the long hours spent at Attack Performance getting this map done.  Bravo!

1 hour ago, Tirso said:

@sfdownhill is your contact person.  

 From Nov 2019, page 26 of this thread:

 

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/88463-new-5th6th8th-gen-performance-header-now-in-production-in-usa/page/26/&tab=comments#comment-1102353

 

I'm using the map but plan on having one custom made. 

 

 

Thanks.  I PM'd him.  Do you think you will get better HP and torque numbers from a custom map?  Dumb question-of course you will but how much better I wonder.  Be interested in how much better-please let us know!

On 5/5/2021 at 9:00 PM, Tirso said:

I have a '99 with WiLD headers, Staintune, PC3 Model 111-410, Attack map and it works fine.

I bought this 9V battery adapter for PC3, I used it to load the map. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253484941321

 

 

How did you buy the Attack map?  I would like to load it.

On 5/5/2021 at 9:00 PM, Tirso said:

I have a '99 with WiLD headers, Staintune, PC3 Model 111-410, Attack map and it works fine.

I bought this 9V battery adapter for PC3, I used it to load the map. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/253484941321

 

 

That's  one beautiful VFR-those pipes...wow.  I did manage to load a map someone on this site gave me-it's a map for a full Erion exhaust and today managed to get those damned plugs routed to where they hook into the wiring harness.  My hands are torn up but it's in there.  Seems to be running rich.  I will buy the Attack map and let 'er rip.  Thanks for all the info.

Ah. Didn't know that. Thanks. Unfortunately they didn't send the harness that plugs into it to load the map. 

Sorta off-topic but...I have had the new headers for a year or so and love them. However wanted a PC III USB so I could load the custom map Daryl had done at Attack Performance (I have an antique PC II) but they're sold out everywhere. Saw a used PC III on eBay and bought it. Got it today but am concerned it isn't what was advertised. The model # is 111-410. If I'm not mistaken that's not the unit that fits the '98-'99. Can anyone confirm if this will work with the '98?

That is one beautiful example!

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Not without a lot of work, but it fits!
 

 

 
Finding a spare RC30 swing arm is part of the fun, however...
 
Ciao,
 
JZH

She's a beauty!

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Thanks for uploading that article. Fascinating technology. How much of that bike's DNA exists in our VFRs?

This is motorcycle porn. Love the carbon fiber air intake runners. 

http://www.speedhunters.com/2020/11/honda-nr750-a-sports-bike-icon-on-the-streets-of-tokyo/

120 link chain for sale. Make an offer.