JZH

Sorry, don't have dimensions for the 929 (MCJ), but FYI, I have measured the FT, Fi, VTEC and 900RRX (MAS) link plates, which measure as follows (measured from shock to swing arm to link to shock): VFR750FT: 84x84x55 VFR800Fi: 70x64x78; VFR800 VTEC: 65x60x63; CBR900RRX: 76x77x70. Ciao,

Only the RS250 is "backwards"; the other Honda SSSA wheels can be made to fit, but it helps if you're an engineer with a fully equipped machine shop... Ciao,

Based on the wiring diagrams for the 5th-gen, the monitor wire appears to be for the benefit of the OEM reg/rec, only, with the rest of the bike being completely agnostic about whether or not the monitor wire is hooked up or not. The monitor wire simply taps into an existing circuit (present on the '98-'99). So if you fit a reg/rec without a monitor wire provision, the bike will be perfectly happy (as long as the reg/rec does its job!) My 5th-gen Compu-Fire upgrade circuit (see below) simply ignores the monitor wire. (Of course, the 6th-gen could be completely different, but I've had a look at those wiring diagrams as well, and there does not appear to be any significant difference in this circuit.) Ciao,

You have a CA-spec bike? IINM, the interference is being caused by the California-only charcoal canister, with the obvious solution being... Ciao,

Sorry, I don't follow you. Ciao,

Yes that would be bad, I'd hate to have polish my bike's headlight 'glass' as often as I have to do my car's. I've since read on the 'Net that, unlike halogen bulbs, HID projectors do not produce very much in the way of radiant heat. So the plastic headlamp lenses should be fine. (Whew!) Ciao,

Well, if you really want to have a 4.5"x18 rear wheel that requires a lot of work to fit (i.e., new rear spindle), I'm sure it is possible! Ciao,

Google: Eastern Beaver, Electrical Connection, Cycle-Re-Rycle, Vintage Connections, Vehicle Wiring Products (UK)... Ciao,

(Am I the only one who read the "oil bible" all the way to the end?) Ciao,

I realize they are mounted fairly far forward, and TBH I don't know if that will create a problem with heat. However, HIDs don't get that hot, as a rule, and the potential heat source is quite far back from the front of the glass projector lens. The location was the result of positioning the projectors so that they didn't stick out the back of the headlamp housing. That is important for three reasons, the first being sealing, the second being clearance for adjustment and the third being interchangeability with my ST1300. I wasn't thinking about the heat from the HID in the projector, I was thinking about the heat generated by light focused on the headlight assembly glass. I've cracked headlight glass using a scratch and a magnifying glass on a bright sunny day (ssshhh don't tell). Well, the lenses are not glass... Still, the plastic could melt or discolour--which would be bad! Well I understand the need to seal the housing against the elements, but I thought the back of the g35 units were already weather proof, so you just needed a through gasket like the h4's use. Heck if the back of the projector is already sealed, you would just need to open up the oem boot. The OEM projectors I've seen are all designed to be sealed into a waterproof plastic housing. Mine are bare metal, for sure. I would not consider them weatherproof. No, I haven't. However, I've seen a few aftermarket products over the years and most left something to be desired with respect to quality of manufacture. The OEM G35 projectors I'm using are miles ahead of the aftermarket "FX-R" replicas sold by The Retrofit Source, for example (I have a pair of these as well). They might work just fine, though! I wasn't even considering copies of the oem projectors, but the mini Bi-xenon projectors caught my eye. They don't have aiming built into their housings, just the Hi/lo cutoff. They essentially bolt into the standard h4 bulb mounting with a pretty secure threaded clamp system and use the standard headlight housing adjusters for aiming. Seemed a simpler solution to the issues of modifying the housing and then having two adjustment systems.. Yes, I discussed these below. Mine don't have two adjustment systems--the projectors are adjusted using the OEM adjusters. See response #1! I did not mean light leakage, I was referring to moisture leakage. I just thought you would have tried some sort of misting or fogging test on the bench with humidfier and/or spray bottle. Who do you think I am, Mr Wizard? I will have to sort that out once I've got the fairing off. I have decided I will need to use Acura/Mitsubishi D2S igniters, which means I will need to buy some different ballasts--hopefully compact ones! There are lots of compact ballasts out there. I could check with my sources and see what they recommend for d2s capsules. I'm working with Matt of The Retrofit Source on this issue now. The Mitsubishi igniters are more like D1S bulb units, AFAIK, so their ballasts are like D1S ballasts. That means that the small aftermarket ballasts (which are nearly all designed for D2S) won't work. I have some D1S ballasts already, so those might work. Size is one consideration, but also connectors and sealing are important. Still researching this... Yes, I suppose it was only a matter of time before the Chinese responded to a clear market niche! I have no idea about how the quality of those small projectors compares to OEM projectors, but at least the mounting sysem makes sense to me. It looks like the projectors would be adequately centred, solidly mounted and re-sealable, with the only issues being where to mount the ballasts and (for some) opening the headlamp units. Could be a winner? I'm going to continue with my OEMs, though. Those are the ones I was talking about, they do appear to be solidly mounted and their smaller size won't require some crazy huge bezel, so they can still retain a certain level of stealth. I'd seen a few projector conversions done on both cars and bikes, and they all screamed "ghetto" to me with the obvious retro fit looks of the final product. Particularly the ones on bikes where they fill the headlight panel and just have the small rounds for the projector (like certain Ducati's have oem). I also worried about the HID conversions that just put a capsule in the standard housing. But then I saw a some projector conversions done on a C14 (a police unit prototype no less) plus a couple of Suzuki's and now I'm sold. Now that my state is not doing their annual (and anal) safety inspections any more, it is possible to install a projector system like this and not have inspection issues. Before that the capsule conversions were barely legal; you had to get a guy that did not want to look too hard at what was in the stock bulb position. One last question,.. Are you going to use a delay for starting (at least on the US VFR!), similar to the delay relay's that tightwad is using, to maximize the life of the HID capsules?? I've looked into the delay relays Tightwad is using, but I think I'll just use a UK-spec headlight switch instead. Which means I just leave the headlights off until the bike starts, and then switch them on. However, I have also noticed that on some cars, such as my wife's '08 Golf R32, when the lights are set to "Automatic" the OEM xenons are allowed to go on and off willy nilly when the doors are unlocked, and also when the car starts, so clearly something is different with the newer OEM xenon systems or the manufacturers have decided the "bulb-life problem" is a non-issue after all. Maybe they just want to sell more HID capsules! In any case, the amount my bikes are actually ridden it won't matter one jot... Ciao,

Is that a trick question?!? As mentioned on my Yellow Peril build thread, the RC46 projector retrofit is still sitting on a shelf, unfortunately. However, I'm going to be back in CA in July, so watch this space... I'll be sorting out the mounting plates next month, so if you can hang on a bit longer I'll upload them once I've got everything working. I realise they are mounted fairly far forward, and TBH I don't know if that will create a problem with heat. However, HIDs don't get that hot, as a rule, and the potential heat source is quite far back from the front of the glass projector lens. The location was the result of positioning the projectors so that they didn't stick out the back of the headlamp housing. That is important for three reasons, the first being sealing, the second being clearance for adjustment and the third being interchangeability with my ST1300. It is very important to be able to re-seal the headlamp unit if you want to have the retrofit last for any length of time in the real world. I've found some Hella rubber caps that fit over the OEM headlamp's bulb access openings and completely seal the housing. I could also have used the OEM rubber caps with some sort of bottle cap-type plug wire-tied in the middle, but this way there is nothing protruding from the back (I also did not know how much room I had to play with behind the unit). Secondly, with parts sticking through the rear opening, there could be interference with the adjustability of the projectors--at least in theory--though this could be ruled out once everything is mounted to a bike and tested. Finally, I wanted to use the same set-up for my ST1300, which uses the exact same reflectors and a similar adjustment system. Perhaps with shorter projectors, I could move them back a bit (it would just require making some shorter alloy mounting posts and making a bigger hole in the mounting plate). The mounting plate works with or without the reflector, so I was just leaving it in for appearance's sake. If I seal the projectors so that light does not leak out the sides, there will be no light for the reflectors to reflect, which would eliminate any possibility of unintentional glare being produced. Some people seem to paint everything inside the housings black, but I think that looks a bit weird in daylight. I may still leave the reflectors out, though. No, I haven't. However, I've seen a few aftermarket products over the years and most left something to be desired with respect to quality of manufacture. The OEM G35 projectors I'm using are miles ahead of the aftermarket "FX-R" replicas sold by The Retrofit Source, for example (I have a pair of these as well). They might work just fine, though! See response #1! I will have to sort that out once I've got the fairing off. I have decided I will need to use Acura/Mitsubishi D2S igniters, which means I will need to buy some different ballasts--hopefully compact ones! Good luck! There's loads of good info on the HIDPlanet forum, but a lot of noise as well. Yes, I suppose it was only a matter of time before the Chinese responded to a clear market niche! I have no idea about how the quality of those small projectors compares to OEM projectors, but at least the mounting sysem makes sense to me. It looks like the projectors would be adequately centred, solidly mounted and re-sealable, with the only issues being where to mount the ballasts and (for some) opening the headlamp units. Could be a winner? I'm going to continue with my OEMs, though. Ciao,

A spacer would put your rear wheel off-center, but maybe not noticeably? You might be able to use different bolts for the rotor, or turn them around--it's had to say without looking at the hub assembly. But notching the RC46 wheel would also be a simple solution. Those wheels are not rare, and I don't think anyone will ever see the notches! Ciao,

I probably should have mentioned that! It's mostly a pun on the bike's color, "pearl yellow", and the potential of the modifications to endanger life and limb--but it's also partly my most sincere two digits for the PC mob. Ciao, ...and Timmy should have mentioned that he made the comment because he's been calling his bike "the yellow peril" since he joined the board... Who'd a guessed! Ciao,

Killer bike mods but who's in peril? ...sorry... ? I probably should have mentioned that! It's mostly a pun on the bike's color, "pearl yellow", and the potential of the modifications to endanger life and limb--but it's also partly my most sincere two digits for the PC mob. Ciao,

Scott, I think you were right the first time! AFAIK, Dan wouldn't be able to fab a complete set of headers: You'd have to have either TBR, Erion or OEM headers, already (Motad/Predator should also work, as they are copies of OEM), and he could supply the connector pipe and the undertray (if desired). I would expect the y-pipe only would cost somewhere in the $5-600 range (but would likely depend on volume). You'd also have to sort out the undertray yourself and find a set of Laser Xtremes like Jim and I did. I think Jim's were two from a VTEC set of four, but mine were from a CBR600RR, and I think Laser still makes them for many different bikes. Some of you may have noticed that I have yet to tackle the "license plate problem", but Jim had Dan make a neat titanium bracket. I'm not sure what approach I'm going to take for that--something else to think about during these coming weeks... Ciao,

You're tellin' me?!? I was considering waiting on the build thread until it was actually done, but no way could I have survived even a few months without some sort of catharsis! So, you guys get half a build thread, and I am able to digest food again... Seriously, thank you all for the kind words. I think the project is coming along nicely and I'm currently trying to get back over there ASAP to finish it...and go for a ride! I've got a long list of bits and bobs that I noted during Part I that were missing or would have been nice to have, so I'll be rounding up those things (e.g., o-rings, OEM fairing fasteners, more suitable stainless fasteners, a CompuFire reg/rec) in the mean time. I'd also like to prep for the fork swap a bit more (it's been a while since I collected the parts), so this breathing space will be useful. Stay tuned! Ciao,

Looks good. Here's one on my FP I prepared earlier... P7140007x OEM reg/rec, relocated to the bottom of the lower triple clamp on my '93 VFR750FP P7140009x Relocated reg/rec and a peek of the two FIAMM horns stuffed into the side fairings (which is what frees up this location for the reg/rec) The mount is a short piece of stainless steel bar stock, bent into an "L". There is currently an upgraded (finned) OEM reg/rec in the same location, and it's been working fine since 2003 (I think there's even a thread on it here--pics are in my Gallery). Ciao,

IN THE BEGINNING (which was December 2008), I purchased a California-spec Y2K VFR800Fi as the bike on which to install an A&A supercharger kit (aka "Torocharger"). I was never a big fan of the the 5th-gen VFR, but had ridden them in the past and respected them as very good bikes, but when I started to read about Dan's development of the "Torocharger" on VFRD I was so impressed that I decided I just had to buy the kit as soon as it became available--and a suitable bike to fit it on! I've already got a couple of red VFRs, so I was happy that my research indicated that the "Y2k" yellow model (in the USA) would be perfect for my needs. Soon enough, a fellow member of the venerable VF/VFR Mailing List mentioned that his was for sale on Craigslist, and I flew up to San Jose, helmet in hand... Brett's RC46-RHS This was the bike essentially as purchased by me. Brett's RC46-LHS Hmmm. Looks like those wheels could use a bit of a clean... My Y2K came with a perfectly decent Staintune slip-on, but at some point I decided that such a special bike really needed a special underseat exhaust, so I posted a plea for help on VFRD, which was soon answered by sa1713 (Jim), who was instrumental in getting Dan Dreisbach (http://www.naked-scu....com/index.html) to weld-up a custom y-pipe for me to use with my Erion headers and Laser Xtreme end cans. Many thanks, Jim! These two significant mods occupied most of my free time during my recent two-week vacation in California. At the same time I installed some silicone water hoses and fitted a Power Commander V and Autotune unit. I also generally cleaned everything as I ecountered it--including what seemed to have been about eight years' worth of chain lube spooge all over the LHS of the bike... I've also got a pile of other cool parts and mods waiting to go onto this bike, but wisely decided not to try to do EVERYTHING at once--just a more manageable several things at once! Anyway, this is what $950 buys you these days (Laser Xtreme end cans not included!): RC46 Laser Dreisbach Erion Package Y My Laser underseat system and undertray, fabricated by Dan Dreisbach. (The Lasers are not even because I asked Dan to leave the final trimming of the tubes to me, once I had decided how much I wanted the exhaust to protrude from the rear of the bike.) RC46 Laser Dreisbach TBR In Fixture (Jim This shows the jig made by Dan Dreisbach to duplicate Jim's Laser underseat y-pipe. (This photo actually shows Jim's TBR exhaust--my Erion was very similar, but the outlet was about 50mm longer, and had to be cut-down.) With this jig, Dan can make as many similar y-pipes as he wants. Too bad the number of people with TBR or Erion full systems and Laser Xtreme end cans handy is somewhat limited! I imagine if other exhausts could be provided to him, he could probably fabricate other underseat exhausts as well, but I don't know for sure about that. The Erion full system was purchased via eBay from Dynojet Research (of all sellers!) a couple of years ago. I suspect they had used it to dial-in their Power Commander map for the RC46-I and then put it on a shelf. So, after dithering a bit, selling a house, putting the bike in storage for nine months, buying another house and messing with that for a while, it was time to get down to business with the VFR: P1020921x Starting to strip the bike down for the installation adventure... A freshly powder coated RC36-I rear wheel almost goes w/o saying on a project like this! (The RC51 SP1 front wheel in the background was done at the same time, for some strange reason.) P1020930x The entire left side of the bike was covered in chain spooge and gravel. (Photo taken AFTER degreasing with GUNK or equivalent.) Fortunately, I just love cleaning chain lube spooge. P1020932x Countershaft and sprocket area cleaned and ready for the installation of the new OEM front sprocket, DID chain, new OEM rubber chain guide, Sidewinder titanium alloy 43T rear sprocket and Penske shock. Ah, that's better. (Still need to clean the insides of the fairings--oh, joy!) Despite the fact that nobody will ever see them, I decided to fit mega-bling blue silicone water hoses to the bike. There are no kits for this bike that I am aware of, but inspired by this post by IDA71 on the UK-based Honda VFR Club, I decided to wring a few more pounds out of the credit card and ordered up all of the bulk hoses I needed. Oddly, the hoses are generally cheaper in the UK than in the USA, so I bought them before I came over to California and brought them with me. Because I was installing them on a bike with an A&A supercharger kit, I needed to order three more 45-degree elbows (two for the oil cooler and one for the blow-off valve) and generally ordered a bit more of each of the straight hoses, just in case. (If I had to do it again, I might also order the missing bits noted below.) P1020972x Fitting the silicone hoses to the left-hand side of the engine. I should point out that the smaller blue hose (which runs from the pump to the thermostat housing) ultimately needed to be clamped much closer to the engine so that the overflow bottle would fit properly. The one OEM rubber hose visible in the photo below goes to the "fast-idle wax unit", which is only found on the Y2k and 2001 models, and I did not change it for silicone because the bend was too tight and I hadn't ordered a 90-degree or 180-degree elbow and joiner to replace that hose. Oh, well! (Didja notice the cool rubber hose clamp "jackets"?) P1020978x Top of the engine, within the vee, showing some of the silicone hoses. As you can see, the silicone hoses are a throttle body-off job, so it made a certain amount of sense to install them at this point, rather than after all of the forced induction gubbins had been levered into the frame. In case you're wondering, my sources for these hoses were AP MotorStore and Demon Tweeks (for the 25mm billet Samco hose joiner) in the UK, and I also ordered some missing bits and silicone vacuum lines from Flex Technologies in Torrance, California. Then it was on to the supercharger install... I can report that the supercharger and all of its related plumbing _just_ barely fits! P1020980x A&A Supercharger kit being installed--just installed the throttle bodies back onto the engine. Dan (Toro1) highly recommends having the fuel injectors professionally cleaned before installing the supercharger, so I actually bought a spare set of throttle bodies on eBay in the UK, pulled the injectors and had them cleaned some time ago. P1020982x A&A Supercharger kit being installed--the spacers go between the throttle bodies and the top plate. P1020983x A&A Supercharger top plate, as modified for a Y2k VFR (the temperature sensor has to be relocated from the center of the plate, due to the fast-idle wax unit otherwise causing interference). P1020989x A&A Supercharger top plate. P1020992x Shows the Rotrex's output--as I said, it's a bit of a tight fit! Subsequent adjustment allowed it to squeeze in there without distortion. P1020994x Top rear of the engine. Shows the K&N breather, the relocated rear-cylinder coils and the PAIR valve block-off plates (among other things!) I ended up swapping the No. 1 and No. 4 coils, because the spark plug wire for the No. 4 cylinder was a bit short, once the Rotrex was installed. I had noticed that the No. 1 spark plug wire was a bit long, so swapping them worked out perfectly. The OEM spark plug wires actually have "1" and "4" marked on them in white, but a few dabs from a black Sharpie should eliminate any subsequent confusion! P1020996x Above front of the engine. This photo was taken just before the installation of the Rotrex oil reservoir. The supercharger pumps and uses its own dedicated oil supply, so that means a separate reservoir (and maintenance schedule) is required. (Special oil, too!) All supplied in the A&A kit, though. P1020999x Top front of the engine at the end of Part 1. The K&N air filter (with "pre-charger" sock) attaches to the Rotrex supercharger, but it squeezes right up against it (and is actually slightly deformed by the valve cover). To say it's a "tight fit" is one hell of an understatement... P1030003x Test-fitting of the blow-off valve. P1030013x A&A Supercharger (almost) fully installed. What's missing are the Rotrex oil lines, which go to and from the cylindrical oil reservoir in front of the "airbox". It looks like it might have been better to attach the lines to the Rotrex unit prior to its installation, because doing it at this point would be very tricky without removing things to get access (and re-torquing various bolts and re-tensioning the belt). It might be possible to get the lines on without doing that, but I haven't yet tried that. The only other significant supercharger install steps necessary from this point relate to the fitting of the upgraded fuel pump (naturally, supplied in the A&A kit) into the fuel tank, loading the Power Commander maps and hitting the starter button... P1030014x A&A Supercharger crank drive... P1030011x Left front of the engine at the end of Part 1. P1030017x Right front of the engine at the end of Part 1. Let's take a look at the Laser underseat install. Jim's RC46 Laser underseat system was completed last year, but I'd had a couple of sets of Laser Xtreme end cans sitting around the workshop for some time, purchased with a view to installing them on my UK-based FP (as shown in that thread). However, the custom welding was always the sticking point, so they never got installed. But I did like the look, so when Jim responded to my "WTB" thread with a link to his install thread, I was hooked! There are several versions of Laser Xtreme CBR600RR exhausts, with mine having been made for the '05-'06 model [."]http://shop.laserexh..._CBR600RR.pdf]. They are helpfully stamped with the appropriate homologation numbers and symbols (though that is somewhat irrelevant in the 'States), even though these particular end cans are supposed to be used with a separate resonance chamber and a pair of "road legal" inserts (oops...) However, Dan Dresibach welded-up some inserts of his own for me to experiment with, should I choose to muzzle any of the exquisite Honda V4 music in the future. Initially I had some trouble getting the end cans to mount high enough, which was caused by the y-pipe contacting the bottom of the right side of the undertray, but a simple modification I did to the undertray solved that. The final installation steps will be to (carefully) mark and drill the holes and cut the spacers supporting the end cans from the top. I didn't want to rush this step, as I will only really have one good shot to get it perfect. P1030041x Test-fitting of the Lasers, showing the front/side brackets Dan welded on (awaiting final fitting and drilling of the holes). P1030039x Clearancing of the undertray to clear the y-pipe. P1030031x This is the stainless heat shield Dan devised to keep the undertray cool. It was originally riveted and separated from the aluminum undertray by washers. I had to remove it (and fit additional washers) to clear the button-head cap screws I used to mount things to the top of the undertray (e.g., the battery box and the Penske reservoir). I hope it will still work! P1030035x Another shot of the Lasers' rear mounts, which will attach to the stainless steel plate above, using the captive nut brackets mentioned below. P1030030x Intermediate shot of the undertray, showing the trimmed side (back of the shot) and the side yet to be trimmed in the foreground. I had noticed that the sides of the aluminum undertray would be visible at certain angles, and it was not necessary to have them so long, so I trimmed them back a little bit--cutting a template out of card stock and using that to mark both sides. P1030024x This is a prototype of a rear fairing support idea. They willl attach to the new stainless steel plate I fitted to the rear of the undertray. After a horrible experience making a stainless steel custom undertray for my FP, I absolutely loathe working with the stuff, but I decided it was necessary to use stainless for these parts. McMaster-Carr made it all so easy (but not particularly cheap!) to order stainless steel stock, as well as the hose clamps and most of the A2 stainless fasteners I used. As I've eliminated the OEM plastic read fender entirely (well, except for the battery box I carved out of it!) the two locating lugs in the taillight housing have nothing to fit into, so brackets like these will support it instead. The locating lugs actually may be more to locate the taillight than support the fairing, but I think it's a good idea to pull everything together using the OEM mounting points/lugs. P1030034x The Lasers will mount to the stainless steel plate above, using the captive nut brackets Dan fabricated and welded onto them. (Unfortunately, sized perfectly for UNC nuts! I will have to grind down some M8 nuts to make them fit.) One reason I didn't drill the mounting holes was because I had to find the right stainless steel fasteners to go with those captive nut holders... I decided to use 55mm M8 fully threaded cap screws in conjunction with several locking nuts in order to achieve a degree of adjustability and sufficient support. (Looking at the nuts again, I think both of the middle ones should be locknuts.) I would have preferred socket caps, but could not find them fully-threaded, and I need the thread to accomplish the adjustment. M8 stainless "allthread" would have worked, too. P1030063x M8x55 A2 stainless steel fully threaded cap screw & nut arrangement for supporting the rear of the Lasers P1020947x Laser underseat y-pipe, fabricated by Dan Dreisbach (and polished by Jim!). P1020948x Laser underseat pipework. P1020961x Top of the undertray, showing cut-down battery box, Penske reservoir, PowerCommander V and Autotune. The undertray's location was determined by the clearance necessary for the Lasers, and doesn't leave much space under the seat, but all of the electronics fit, as well as the Penske remote unit, the tool kit and even the lug wrench, extension and owner's manual. The battery box was cut out from the OEM rear fender and attached to the alloy undertray with two M5 button-head cap screws. It actually rests on the subframe crossbar, so apart from the angle (which is close), the battery effectively sits in the OEM position. I've also got a Corbin Smuggler (single seat w/trunk), which pretty much color-matches the rest of the bike, but the fit is apalling. Something's warped--and I'm not sure what or who... Dan also welded a bung into the final collector section of my Erion headers, into which the Autotune sensor fits. I intend to set-up the fueling using Dan's PCIII maps, converted to PCV format, and not hook-up the Autotune until I have a good base map for the supercharger. After that, it may be useful--or for sale! P1020965x Dynojet Power Commander Autotune sensor installed in Erion header (custom location) So, this is how the bike currently sits in my California garage: P1030052x Right-front of the bike at the end of Part 1. P1030049x Left-rear of the bike at the end of Part 1. P1030050x Right-rear of the bike at the end of Part 1. P1030048y Some things to come. RC51 SP1 forks, lower triple, axle, spacers and wheel, 900RR yellow mudguard (same color code as the Y2k VFR) and 929/954 upper triple clamp. Lurking behind is my prototype xenon retrofit headlamp. Sometimes, I do finish my motorcycle projects... ...but not this time! This is end of Part I of this story; sadly, family and other commitments meant that I simply ran out of time and decided it would be best not to rush the last couple of supercharger install steps and break-in, or the finalisation of the Laser underseat install. Part II will follow in a few months, when I return to California, and will include (hopefully) a running bike, as well as a "Frankenviffer" RC51 SP1 fork conversion and (possibly) my Xenon retrofit headlight conversion. Perhaps then we shall all see just how dangerous is the Yellow Peril... Ciao,