RC79Scott

+1 I was thinking of selling the VFR and getting an adventure bike, but my current feeling is to keep the VFR and get a CRF / DR / DRZ. Actually I'm going to look at some today. I already checked out the new CRF250L's, normal and Rally. The Rally looks sweet, but it's kind of heavy (650ish). Not sure I would take it on long enough rides to make the fairing worth it. Maybe a DR-Z400S if I don't go with a CRF. I think I could even be satisfied with a little DR200S (and the price can't be beat). My only worry there is it wouldn't have enough oomph to get me to the dirt roads, aand I fear that on the CRF's too.

I love my Q3's. I'm not Valentino Rossi, but I think they grip and handle way beyond my skill level. Total confidence. I'm at 2500 miles and the rear looks about half and wearing perfectly, front is great. If you do mainly straight or touring then maybe not, but otherwise I can hardly imagine a better tire. They will make you want to find someone at Honda and smack them for putting those horrendous RSII fakes on (in the US). It is truly like getting a new bike, the bike you expected the VFR to be. Seriously, I could feel the rear slip just about every ride with the stocks, but I can't remember it giving at all with the Q3's. The stock fronts always made me feel like I'd better be careful, like I could lose it at any moment (never happened just felt like it might). These, like I said, total confidence.

Just liked them better. The Knight ones were fine, but the position didn't seem to make much difference to me. Maybe I preferred the rubber covers on the stock, although Knight makes that kind, too. I meant to just sell them, then put them in the cabinet and forgot LOL

I didn't change the brake--didn't notice a problem, but then again I only use it at low speed and sparingly otherwise. I think I took the shifter down one notch. On the shifter it kind of depends on your shoes. What I mean is, some of my boots actually felt better with the lower pegs and the shifter in stock position. But for my normal boots, one notch was better.

I've got the Sidetrax version of these in black: http://www.knightdesignllc.com/Products/Motorcycle/Honda/VFR800/Honda-10-VFR800F-1-Front-Foot-Pegs.html I used them for a while, but eventually went back to the stock. (And I went back to the Honda risers from the tallest MotoPumps, too.) If you want a deal on them, say $50, let me know. I should have sold them by now, but kind of forgot about them until I read this thread.

When I first got mine I tried the lower seat height just for the heck of it. Seemed noticeably hotter in that position, but I didn't leave it long enough to say for sure.

Oh, I know. I was captivated by a Super Duke GT today...and I went to look at "adventure" bikes.

Nice bike, might win if I didn't own either, but looking to go a different direction. As far as selling the accessories... Yeah, might have to go that route, but shipping those cases doesn't sound appealing. I'm more interested in just taking my beating and moving on. I'm kind of pragmatic about these things. I love the bike, just ready for something new... But you know, I got out and washed it today, and then took it for a drying run around the neighborhood. I thought...I need to have my head examined if I sell this...LOL

Hopefully this is not misplaced / offensive to anyone. I am not actually selling at this time, just trying to get ideas. I've got a 2014 Deluxe w/ Akropovic, Honda cases / liners, Honda risers, RadGuard, Knight pegs (not currently installed), Q3's in fantastic condition, shop manual, and all original parts. Bike condition is near perfect--some light scratches on the screen is all I've ever noticed. Just changed fluids except oil. 6500 miles approx., used Honda dino oil after break in to 4k, then Honda full synthetic until now. So, I'm thinking on a trade they are going to offer about $6k. For it to be feasible to sell to private party I would need $6k + 7% to offset sales tax credit. I think the bike is easily worth $8k, and I would like at least $7.5. Then again, we all know there are still lots of these around new (at least the standard model). So, do you think I'm in the ballpark or what? Too high, too low? Here are the U.S. prices for my zip code this morning (just the bike, no accessories added): KBB good condition: $6490 trade, $9270 retail NADA: $7680 low retail, $10105 high retail

Heard of it on cars, but never happened on any vehicle of mine. Most claim it is solved by driving a little after washing to let the brakes heat and dry. Curious if you put it away right after washing? I typically don't ride mine after washing; but I generally blow dry the bike and then wipe it completely dry including rolling the wheels and drying them (including rotors) the best I can. I use my center stand to roll the rear, and a little Harbor Freight Motorcycle Wheel Cleaning Stand to roll the front easily. Tip: Position the stand behind the front wheel before raising on the center stand. The front wheel will often land perfectly on the stand, or you might have to kick the stand a time or two. One thing I have noticed on a car is that the brakes can have a grinding sound when they have been sitting unused in a humid environment for some time--just happened last week after my car had been sitting in a humid parking garage at a cruise port for 8 days. So I do believe the theory. Also, be careful about spraying water into them. I think the manual (or common knowledge?) states to not spray water directly into the brake calipers.

I have mine quite a bit but not always. In Chattanooga someone might relieve me of it if not careful.

I like that idea with the gorilla tape...

Have a feeling I'm going to be saying, duh, here soon but...what are RATS and CT?

Hey thanks, do you have any experience with the BMW one to compare?

I've read some of the threads on these, and apologize if this has been asked. How is the quickshifter in lower gears and not at WOT? I test rode an R1200R last year and was thoroughly unimpressed. Umm, that is, I was unimpressed with upshifting in lower gears such as 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. The BMW one, at least last year, had to be shifted at granny RPMs to even work right on the low gears--utter disappointment. I'm saying you had to shift to 2nd before you were even doing 10 MPH or the thing would lurch...not kidding. The downshifting was awesome (but, alas, the VFR one does not go there). Sure, I'd like to go WOT with it on some highway ramps...or elsewhere (lol), but I'd like to just click up to 4th in the city without much work and without getting to 3rd gear at 20 MPH. The VFR is a lot of things, but in certain urban environments the gear ratios will definitely wear you out...

That's why I say I will never buy another bike without a test ride...one of the reasons anyway. I went round and round and trying to fix a buffeting problem introduced by the addition of a screen on a cruiser. The solution was to get rid of that screen (and eventually that bike, for other reasons too), but the suggestions I got ranged from new helmet to ridiculous, random mods to the airflow such as new mirrors, etc. Everyone knew what worked FOR THEM and their advice was of little value FOR ME. Well, I didn't try many of them since they ranged in cost from $80 to $1000...just to see if it maybe helped, and have this Frankenstein bike with deflectors here and there. Having said that, I find the suspension suggestion interesting and plausible. I wonder also if he may be sitting in a different position with the pillion? If you've ever experienced this, then you know that just moving your head a few inches forward/down or vice versa can eliminate it. I wish the OP luck. I want an aftermarket shield for my bike, for looks, but the air flow is so freaking perfect that I don't dare mess with it.

I discovered yesterday that I really wished I had bought that MotoPump kit the last time I thought about it. I had no idea how heavy a VFR is with a flat rear...lol. Thankfully I at least had AAA. Little solace, though, with a flat on a Q3 that only had ~1k on it. Why couldn't it have been that miserable OEM tire? Anyhow, the MotoPump is on the way. It got me wondering, though, what other tools I might need that I could fit under the cowl. That's basically the cutoff for me--it all has to fit under the rear seat cowl (or somewhere not in my luggage, which I don't always have other than little tank bag). I've heard people suggest everything from duct tape to toilet paper, but I'm not carrying 50 lbs of crap against a .01% chance. What would you consider essential to have on your 8th Gen?

Great Smoky Mountains TN

I dunno. $1000 (USD) for the boxes is fine apparently, but $100 for the liners is too much??? Get them if you want them, I'd say. I like that they fit perfectly, that they don't take up all the space, and that I don't look like a slob carrying grocery bags into a hotel... They do undoubtedly use some space themselves, so that may be a factor if your needs are greater than mine.

It's kind of a crap shoot isn't it? You'll probably just have to find what works for you. I bought a screen for a cruiser I had, and my head vibrated so bad above 60 or so that it was unbearable in any position I set it--my contact lenses seemed liked they were jittering..lol. People suggested new helmet, new mirrors, lowers, taller / shorter screen, and I can't remember what other BS... I tired a couple things, but finally came to the realization that I was wasting riding time / money and just ebayed the screen. Now, I won't buy any bike with a screen without a test ride, and I won't buy any screen for a bike unless I can return it no question or expense. Fortunately, the stock screen on the 8th gen works great AFAIC, and my USELESS advice to you is that the stock screen and an HJC RPHA ST helmet are key ;-) since that is the combo that works for ME. See what I am saying?

I just ordered from their website: http://www.radguard.com.au/ I've attached a quick photo of mine and the instructions that came with it. Shipping was high to US from Australia, but it came relatively quickly...about 9 days IIRC. I'd say you have a good point about the fender--hadn't considered it fully. Glad I went with the guard instead of the extender. scan0001.pdf

I somehow took 2 hits to mine before it even had 1k miles. Not sure how, when, where. They were both minor--just some slightly bent fins, but I opted for the RadGuard. I think the front fender is not long enough in the back...shrug

The white is really nice...

I tracked MPG manually for a while and found it to be pretty accurate. Actual speed seems accurate, too. I didn't check speed formally with GPS or anything, but the radar warnings that I pass from time to time seem to agree with my indicated speed.

For posterity... I pretty much decided that it had not burned any oil, after all. I think it was all related to where I was checking it. I've put about 500 miles on some fresh oil and not seeing anything. Too hot around here these days to ride much, but I'll be keeping an eye on it. Definitely recommend that anyone find a level place and use it exclusively when filling / checking. A quick check here or there is fine, of course, but don't draw any conclusions--the level in that sight glass is way too sensitive to even the slightest tilt.