NRSPTR

Thanks Squirrelman!

I am wanting to install a manual fan switch on my '08. My plan was to tap into the ground wire between the fan motor and the thermostat and just run a manual switch to ground. Is this ok or should I be installing a relay? Thanks!

Good to know.

Nope. And to clarify, I'm not speaking of rust, this corrosion is like what you would expect to see on the terminals of an old battery. White chalky powder over the entire surface.

What is surprising me the most is the speed at which they got to this state, they were perfect a year ago. I ordered new lug nuts as a precaution and will be taking a wire brush and WD-40 to the lugs. Guess I am going to have to start pulling the wheel off more frequently to keep an eye on this.

While replacing the chain on my '08 this weekend, I noticed major corrosion on the wheel lugs. Its a white chalky powder almost like what you would see on battery terminals, all over the lugs and lug nuts. This has me stymied since there was no corrosion present last spring when I took the wheel off to replace the rear tire. Now, a year later, its awful. Is this a common problem? There is only one theory I can come up with to explain this. I had my bike at the dealer getting the clutch and brakes flushed and filled about 6 months ago. I am assuming that they pulled the wheel to get at the rear calliper. Maybe they put on the wrong lug nuts and there is a metallurgical reaction occurring. Like I said, I'm stymied. Would love to know if corrosion on the lugs is typical on these bikes. Thanks!

If it were just the issue of not having the damper material, I'd probably use it. But the width difference just doesn't seem right to me. It's a good millimeter narrower and you can feel the sloppiness when you put it in the chain and shimmy it back and forth. A new sprocket shouldn't have "more" play in the chain than a worn one. The JT was only $16 so I will just trash it and chalk it up to a lesson learned. An OEM is on the way from Partzilla for $45. Thanks again to everyone for your input, I really appreciate it!

Thank you all for the feedback! Guess I'll eat the cost of the JT and order an OEM sprocket. Thanks again all!

So I decided to replace my chain and sprockets today. I pulled of the front sprocket, and am noticing that the OEM sprocket has a rubber like material attached to both sides. I am replacing it with a JT steel sprocket (JTF339-16) which does not have this rubber material. Am I supposed to try to separate it off of the original and put it on the new one, or is it not a necessary piece??? Also, width of the OEM sprocket teeth is definitely wider in diameter than the JT. I just reconfirmed on JT's web site that the sprocket I ordered is for a 530 chain and it is. But it sure is concerning me that maybe it was intended for a 520 chain and incorrectly stamped. What do ya think???

I see that you confirmed that the clutch switch is good, but are you sure that the clutch lever is fully actuating the switch? I recently installed a new aftermarket clutch lever and had the same issue with the bike not starting in gear. Turns out there is a small amount of play between the screw and the hole on the clutch switch that can allow a fully depressed clutch lever to not quite actuate the switch. Try loosening the screw, and physically move the switch closer to the lever, then tighten the screw.

SWEEEEEET, when do we leave?

Thanks all for the input! I'm considering it resolved for now.

After removing the switch and reinstalling it, I see that there is some play there on the screw hole. I was able to move the switch a little closer to the lever and tightened it down, now it is working with the lever in the first click position. I have no idea if it will stay there or eventually move away, but for now it is working ;-)

After more consideration, shorting the switch would be a bad idea. You could accidentally hit the starter switch while driving.

I hear ya, I am wondering if I shouldn't just short the switch permanently. Any issue with doing this???

My apologies in advance if this has been asked and answered a dozen times and I'm just too stupid to find it: I just installed the Pazzo shorty clutch and brake levers on my '08. I really like them, however, I am finding the bike wont start in gear unless the lever is adjusted to position 3 or higher. Have others ran into this?? I really prefer the lever at setting one as I have short fingers and three is a bit of a reach for me. Clutch disengages correctly at all 6 adjustment levels, so I am wondering if anyone has found a way to maybe build up the contact point between the switch and the lever? Any suggestions?