Chris800

What did the old plates look like? Did you measure them or take pictures, compare them to the old ones? The springs as well? If your springs were bad changing the clutch pack will not solve the problem as the new clutch plates will wear out quick due to low pressure and high friction. Just throwing new parts at it untill the problem gets solved is an expensive way of fixing it... Did you check the manual, it's pretty detailed for the clutch and it's a pretty easy pease job. Did you also check the lifter rod, it should have mooved freely with the master out. It's basically a stick that pushes the clutch pack from one side of the bike to the other with hydraulic pressure. This video might help you understand how it works:

For the bikes I've looked at so far the best tells if it was on it's side for me were: mirrors (these seem repainted at the mirror back part) rear brake pedal (usually gets bent in, can't tell from this picture for this bike) the pillon handles (these seem scuffed on the second picture) Fairings might be original, just repainted. Usually you can see this on the inside when you remove them as they wouldn't be fully painted there and can check for repaired cracks form a fall. If the bike was repainted the lacquer finish should be inconsistent and might have a sort of orange peel look at the small and curvy parts which are hard to reach, like under the seat edge of the rear fairing. If it was painted professionally enough so that you can't find anything wrong with it you shouldn't worry, as someone paid good money to have it done right. If it was wrecked usually no one would have bothered to go into such detail.

I have an old CB650 wich had problems with the clutch not engaging. Lever was very soft and basically not working. Drained it, opened, cleaned, some fine sanding, closed it up again, put new fluid and removed air and it's working like new. Unless you really messed up something putting it together or taking the air out that's probably not the problem and you should notice it in the lever action. What oil are you running? I don't think the vfr has a dry clutch, so it should be bathed in the engine oil, any problems there and it can start slipping. You can drain the oil and check for water or antifreeze in it. When draining water comes out first as oil is thicker. While the oil is out you can open the side and check the clutch plates, they should be visible without removing the whole assembly and should have grooves like this and not look dark or burnt. Watch the gasket when you remove the cover for the clutch. If all looks good you just put the cover and oil back on the bike, but I doubt it.

It was 2500euro, guy said he'd give it for 2200 euro, as he said it needs new pads, oil and stuff. Otherwise prices here are between 2000 and 3000 euro. My budget was 2500, but half the bikes within it were re-painted or not well taken care of. This was the answer I was waiting for, thanks JZH. I decided to wait to see if any new ads pop up during winter, plus the prices will probably go down as well and where I am these bikes don't sell like the cbr's and the r1's anyway, so I'm not rushing getting one given I'd probably ride it at least a couple of years.

Maybe, it did't seem re-painted, but I wasn't really looking hard at it as I just had a couple of minutes to see it and the owner than and actually had some scratches which are not visible on the photos. On the other hand this bike was actually repainted, but I guess you couldn't tell from the pictures: . No one answered about the VIN. I still haven't found a decisive answer with decoders. I'll be calling the local honda dealership tomorrow.

I called the seller today and asked him for the VIN - JH2RC46AX5M700055 Running it on couple checkers online (I didn't find any in the search here) it comes up as produced in Manufacturing Plant: HAMAMATSU SHIZUOKA JAPAN I'm not sure where the most of them are made, but I'd guess it's around the world? I've compared it to a VIN from the recall pined post. First one is this bike's VIN. https://www.vindecoder.pl/JH2RC46AX5M700055 https://www.vindecoder.pl/JH2RC461X4M601209 https://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/CPP-VIN/index.php?VIN=JH2RC46AX5M700055&submit=DECODE+VIN https://www.cyclepedia.com/manuals/CPP-VIN/index.php?VIN=JH2RC461X4M601209&submit=DECODE+VIN Does anyone know a better vin decoder or should I better call Honda?

I've seen some pretty rare things end up or being replicated here as the car and bike communities are crazy. So I'm not doubting it could end up here, I'm doubting if there is one and if the owner is not lying to me, but it seems the best thing is to get the VIN. For the colour missmatch I think it was the camera and light as there didn't seem to be a difference on the bike when I was looking at it.

The pictures and the light are very strange on the photos, maybe that's why. Tank seems bulkier right behind the triple clam for some reason and now I notice it doesn't have the typical HISS and Unleaded Fuel Only stickers on it.

Could it be a USA import then? I'll go check it in detail next week when I'm free from work, maybe get to ride it even as it was in the best condition from the 4 I viewed so far. My only concern is if it was crashed and repainted, thus someone putting the new type logo on it. Does anyone know where can I check the VIN, Honda Dealership maybe? If the owner's story doesn't check out my last option is to go look at this one. It's a little bit out the budget frame and is on the other side of the country, but at least it's in the correct colour and it's a 6.5 gen 😁

Hi guys, I had a 5th gen for a couple of years than got a TDM, VTR and now I'm thinking of jumping back on the VFR. I went to see a 6th gen in my city and it was in good condition, but one thing that caught my eye was that the tank logo was different, like the ones on the new 1000 cbr's. I asked the owner about it and he said it was becouse it's a JDM version (Japanese Domestic Market) as he checked the VIN. I didn't get the VIN myself thinking I will be able to find the info online, but I can't seem to find any information on google or here about JDM versions of the VTEC or even liveries and color versions over the years. Does anyone know if this is really a JDM version and are there any differences other than the tank logo? I'm guessing emission regulations would probably be different so might have something different with the PAIR or something? I'm in Europe btw.

Hi guys. I've recently bent my forks and as my calibers needed refurbushing(and I don't like the linked brakes), I tought of delinking the brakes and changing the front braking system and forks. I'm thinking of buying the whole front braking system (M/C calipers, brake lines) and forks from a 1998 VTR. I'm thinking of using my 99 VFR triple, wheel and discs. Basicly it has to fit without any modifications except the alignment of the discs and calipers, right? And which axle and spacers did you use VFR or VTR(with the VFR wheel)? Thanks in advance!

I like this one But not sure how it would work out on a 5gen. I don't really like the wings on the vfr, but thanks for the ideas. I'm thinking of painting it in middle or late april, so there is still some time to think about it, any new ideas are still welcome :)

Hi, I'm thinking of re-painting my bike but I can't choose the new look. I'm thinking of a mix between black and white or black and red, with black as the base colour - somthing like this Could you help me, with some ideas, as my painting skills are not the best :D This is the base picture I used Thanks!