darkshad

After replacing the clutch, I was having problems getting the motorcycle to start and run and so I found two disconnected wires - neutral switch and ignition pulse generator that were disconnected. Once I got those plugged back in, the bike started and I was able to take it out for a test ride to verify that it was working properly. Sorry for the confusion.

All: An update - I got the motorcycle back up and running and the "motorcycle not accelerating properly is fixed." I installed a new clutch and that fixed the issue. Clutch I used: Barnett Performance Products 303-35-20046 - Complete Clutch Kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031BJGM8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Repair Steps: --Make sure the slave cylinder is rebuilt correctly - put the spring in first followed by the piston. --Put gasket sealer on slave cylinder gasket and put on slave cylinder. --Put oil on clutch plates --Put clutch plates in - make sure they are in the correct order. --Put on lifter plate with lifter bearing --Put in springs and bolts.- make sure to tighten them in correctly. 9 lbf-ft --Put gasket sealer on clutch cover gasket. --Put clutch cover gasket on clutch cover and put in all of the bolts. --Wait 24 hours for gasket sealant to setup Next day - --Add oil filter and oil to the motorcycle. --Bleed the clutch. --Motorcycle should start back up. Make sure you have added enough oil and take the motorcycle out for a test to see if the issue been resolved. If the motorcycle doesn't want to start, or if the bike is in neutral, but you don't see the neutral light on the dash, look and see if you have any lose wires that might have came disconnected - ie. neutral switch (around the left side of the clutch cover) or ignition pulse generator (on the top side of the clutch cover). Appreciate all of your help and ideas in helping me get the VFR back up and running. Sometimes one just needs another set of eyes. Have a good one. Thanks.

Ah hah. I knew it was something simple. I'll get the slave cylinder rebuilt correctly, and then everything should fit. Thanks!

The push rod doesn't look bent and the slave piston isn't jammed in the extended state. See youtube video at the end of this message. Yah. I removed the clutch pack rebuild and still have the same issue. It's not the clutch pack piece. The central bearing is mounted on the end plate and seated correctly. See youtube video. I checked the lifter piece, and the hole is clean. The rod properly seats in it. It's probably something simple, but I'm at a loss as to what it could be. There are only a handful of parts that actually connect directly to the lifter rod. Other thoughts/ideas to look at? Thanks.

An update: I was able to get the new clutch plates put in. The one problem I have now is that if I put the slave cylinder back on, the plate where the springs are sticks out about 1/4 of an inch. If I tighten down the bolts and get the plate flush to where it should be, then the rod sticks out too much for the slave cylinder to be flush. It's almost as if the rod is a hair bit too big, but it's the same rod. See pictures - this with the slave cylinder bolted in, as you can see there is a gap between the clutch plates and the plate where the springs are. Appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.

An Update. Rebuilt the master and slave cylinder. Was in the process of putting the slave cylinder back on, but couldn't get it back on because the rod was pushed out and couldn't get it pushed back in. Decided to drain the oil and crack open the clutch cover. Looked at a couple of the rings, but didn't know what I was looking at and had the replacement ones at my house and not where I was working on my motorcycle. I hadn't looked at the manual yet on replacing the clutch (replacing the clutch was going to be the second phase after the MC/SC), so I looked at it and also ordered a replacement gasket for the clutch cover. Need to wait for the replacement gasket to arrive before I can continue on this project. Thanks.

Alright. Got all of the parts in. Going to work on the motorcycle this weekend.

Alright. Just ordered a MC and SC rebuild kit and also a Barnett Performance Products 303-35-20046 - Complete Clutch Kit. Will rebuild the MC and SC so I have a "known good" set and if I still have the issue, will replace the clutch with Barnett clutch kit. re: clutch lever feel, it's hard to tell. Thanks.

No. Rather than rebuilding, I bought used parts off of ebay. I don't think so. No. Rather than rebuilding, I bought the clutch slave off of ebay. The interesting thing is after I replaced both the master, slave, and added fluid, the motorcycle was running fine for one of my weekly rides. ie. Saturday weekend 1. The next weekend I took the motorcycle out and that's when this issue popped up. ie. weekend 2. Saturday weekend 2 was fine, but Sunday weekend 2 was when the issue cropped up. Since it was working properly for weekend 1 and first day of weekend 2, I'm not sure if the issue is a part I replaced, but I guess I could swap one of parts out (ie. slave cylinder) with the old slave cylinder and see if there is any effect. At least something to try. Thanks.

Alright....An update. I looked at the clutch fluid and it was a bit high, so I removed some. Per the manual, I tuned the handle bars to the right, made sure the master cylinder was level, and with plastics and top on, I see an air bubble at the top of the level. I also checked the small hole in the master cylinder - as far as I could tell, it looked good. I stuck an ice pick in the hole to check. Motorcycle still has the same problem, maybe even a bit worse. Could a failing water pump have anything to do with it? It appears that my water pump has seen better days. See picture below. May look at taking it in to the motorcycle shop for a diagnosis next week. Thanks.

Plan on looking at this tomorrow - Saturday. Will let you all know what I find out. Thanks.

Hey, Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look at the clutch and see what I can find out. Thanks.

Hi all. I have a 2002 Honda VFR 800 non-ABS that I’m having problems with. After first gear, when I get on the throttle, the bike’s RPMs just increase without much increase in speed. See youtube video below. Do you all have any thoughts what might be wrong or what things I should look at? I had a couple things that I recently fixed on the bike, so not sure if these have something to do with the issue or not. I had a soft clutch and was unable to shift because I ran out of clutch fluid. I wasn’t sure if my clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder were bad as well, so I replaced those two parts with ebay used parts and bled the clutch with a vacuum bleeder. My chain was loose, so I also tightened my chain. After I did these things, the bike ran fine for a week or so, and then started exhibiting the “loss of power at high RPMs.” Appreciate any thoughts you may have. Thanks.

Success! I got the motorcycle started and running last night. Still need to put everything back together, but now it at least runs. Resolution to my issue: My ECU was bad so I needed a new ECU. Even after replacing the ECU, the fuel pump wouldn't prime. I got a "new to me" fuel pump, tested it out and it primed, so now needed to get the fuel pump back in the gas tank. The metal around the lip of where the fuel pump goes into the gas tank is very thin and bends easily. I had two small bends that I used a small pair of pliers on in order to get the bend out. I used a new fuel pump gasket and put a bunch of sealant called "Seal-All" which acts as both a glue/sealant and is gas/oil resistant and applied it to both the gasket side of the fuel pump as well as the metal around the lip of where the fuel pump goes into the gas tank and around the bolts. I wanted to make sure the gas didn't leak out. Got the gas tank hooked up to the motorcycle, turned the ignition on, turned the switch on, heard the pump prime, pressed the start button and the engine fired right up. All I need to do now is get the bike put back together. Here's the sealant I used. https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380112-Contact-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B008VK0JS4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=seal-all&qid=1565196380&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Grum - thanks for your help in diagnosing/troubleshooting the issue(s)

Alright. It's been 24 hours and there is no sign of gas leak around the fuel tank/fuel pump, so think I have the issue resolved. What I did: I noticed there was a bit of warping around the opening for the fuel pump on the gas tank. Used a pair of small pliers and carefully tried to level the two spots that were warped. Also, I bought this stuff called "Seal-All" which acts as glue and sealant and is not affected by gas, oil, alcohol, water, and most solvents. https://www.amazon.com/Seal-All-380112-Contact-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B008VK0JS4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=seal-all&qid=1565196380&s=gateway&sr=8-3 I used a new fuel pump gasket and used a bunch of the Seal-All around where the gasket meets the fuel pump and as well as around the lip of the opening where the fuel pump connects to the gas tank. I also tightened the bolts to 9 n/m, let the sealant set for 15 min and then tightened the bolts again. I let it set for 48 hours (24 is probably enough) and then tested to make sure gas wasn't leaking. Pretty happy with the Seal-All stuff.