zRoYz

I would look at drilling a hole in that lower chain guard to feed the hose into for a clean look. Kirbster who has used a scottoiler on his 02 since new still has the original chain & sprockets with over 60K on his bike & there still isn't any real free play in links on rear sprocket so the self oilers do work a treat.

+1 with the price point Honda already at with the VFR1200 in current form they probably didn't want to add more R&D cost to install a traction control system so the above statement for me rings very true "poor mans traction control". To think it was done because the drive train couldn't handle the torque in 1st & 2nd gear would mean there would be a potential for it to fail in any other gear which is crazy because in the end the available tyre grip is what will fail first. There is also the thought that maybe it was done for emissions & noise due to lower gears for a given speed the revs are higher, who really knows because your never going to get an official word from Honda. It is simply a strange thing to do to limit lower gears because some riders don't know how to use throttle control & maybe they only did it due to the target market as they don't do it to there full blown sportsbikes unless to abide by a particular countries regulations but that happens through all gears. I applaud how there are people that always find solutions, I just would like a solution that means I can have the gear indicator still work 1st & 2nd now Honda have finally fitted something I always fit to my motorbikes.

Thanks for reply toro, I'll keep a eye out & by the way your gen5 is a sight to be hold & I don't even like the look of them myself but would gladly own yours.

Thank you Veefer800Canuck will be keeping an eye on that thread :-)

Toro I know this has been asked to death but are you going to adapt the gen5 kit for the gen6 anytime soon. The reason I ask is I'm about over my mid life episode were I felt the need for one more sportsbike so sold my frankenviffer gen6 & bought a CBR1000RR 08 & in the very near future will be converting back to a more touring orientated bike. I don't like the K1300S as just feels cumbersome to me & the only other bike that interests me is the VFR1200 which isn't yet in Australia for test rides. Now if I don't like the VFR1200 my only option is to build another gen6 frankenviffer but then I'm hooked on the hp of the CBR1000RR & was one of the main reasons I sold my gen6 I just wanted a little more woot factor. I would need the supercharger kit for any gen6 rebuild because I simply don't like the gen5 ascetics. So if your not going to do a direct kit for the gen6 how many parts of the gen5 kit will work on the gen6 as machining stuff to adapt kit or making new parts is a no brainer for me as I'm a toolmaker by trade & at the moment weighing up options. I haven't posted a pic of the CBR on this site yet so: CBR1000RR 08 Ohlins forks, WP shock, Akra full system, PCV, Pazzo, Gel seat, Woodcraft case sliders, braided lines, etc This is the frankenviffer I miss but can build another (Ohlins forks from CBR will be used): VFRdesktop.jpg

Excuse me I have been caught up of late playing at the track with my CBR1000RR which takes allot of my time, we only get snow in 2 places whole of Australia so you can ride all year round here. Because it has been taking up allot of my time I'll post some pics of the CBR1000RR which I'm always adding parts too as you do. Since this pic I have removed the Ohlins ttx shock as I didn't like it & fitted a WP shock & front rotors have been upgraded to 320mm Galfers (04/05 standard are 310mm) CBRTRACK.jpg EC19th.jpg The VFR1 is still going strong & the R1 front end has never let me down, in fact the brakes & handling are so good there isn't anything I can do to improve it. I did have some 6 pot R1 calipers to fit but didn't bother due to the bike already will out brake the tire & I use race rubber for a front tire. Nothing upsets the front end pot holes, bumps, ripples, dirt I have never had one front end slide since the install & the best part is even with so many adjustments since finding a setting I like there hasn't been any need to add clicks of anything. It's strange with the talk of the "maybe" new V5 or whatever VFR because the only improvement for me would be the few extra hp, but unless I'm doing 200kph+ I see no need for that. I have fitted the Motard headers which made a great improvement on smoothing out power delivery & you don't even notice VTEC except for the induction noise so driving out of turns is much smoother (dyno map bellow). Some updated pics. VFRdesktop.jpg VFR1desktop.jpg ROYZ_POWER_TORQUE_RPM.JPG ROYZ_POWER_TIME.JPG Nut shell: for everyday riding, touring, full sports riding, pillion comfort there is no better bike, I can do 2500kms of twisty mountain roads in 3 days & still dance a jig at the end & I'm no spring Chicken :unsure:

mods no need to delete anything, I luv utes just as much as bikes :fing02: I really like the new Ford performance utes about to be released here in AUS this one is the V8 we also get a turbo six.

MX-5 - isn't that a Mazda? :goofy: Hehehe... I think you might have meant to write S2000, but something else popped into your mind for some strange reason? :P BTW that's a great pic of you on it before it went silver; looks like you're pulling it up and over out of T2 for T3 at Eastern Creek? Well my mistake as yes the mx is a mazda & the grey is a mazda color, I think I was thinking about keeping it :warranty: Also correct that is between T2 & T3 at EC I have the complete sequence. No pics of bike pick up due to my camera hit a brick wall after returned to me in a none working order by my daughter, must learn to control my temper (other pics taken by a friend without a temper hehe)

The grey is a Honda color but they use it on there cars well MX-5 here in AUS anyway. AB he is picking up Saturday 15th.

I didn't do it myself let Mr plastic welder do it, the trick is to leave the normal mounting screws in & then weld up the joins so there is good strength to avoid cracking. The rear that mounts above tail lights is also welded in. The only part you don't weld is lower part that is mounted as a part of tail light because you need that adjustment & flex to install the blinkers. The complete tail mounts onto bike sliding in from rear without any problem. If guy who bought bike didn't have 954 mirrors in his parts bin we would use 2000 mirrors but the cost of them new is allot more than mounting blocks for the 954 ones he has.

I was asked for some pics & the rule is everything is worthless without them so here they are. Story: My 4th gen track bike was replaced with a CBR1000RR & because I have also revamped my VTEC & deal with wife was new track bike sell old one I had to sell my 4th gen. Well the new owner wanted some things done & I agreed to do them so mods & pics bellow. Full respray & rear tail made into a one piece unit. R/R rewired to front of bike mounted lower triple clamp for cooling reasons. F4I forks revalved with .95kg springs. F4I brakes. F41 fender. VTEC triple clamps. VTEC clipons. Pazzo levers. Braided lines front/rear. Hugger. Penske 2 clicker shock (height adjustable). K&N filter. Staintune. Things still to fit: 954 mirrors (mounting blocks being machined). Rear sets gold (mounting plates being machined) Fit fairing piece behind front wheel (waiting for dzus fasteners) Before rework: EC2_5.jpg After: VFR750 082.jpg VFR750 068.jpg VFR750 058.jpg Yes the pool needs work but can't be bothered as to buzzy working on bikes :-) & my lab is only 6 months old so he likes to chew everything. Also you ozvfr members don't tell you know who (badly kept secret) I posted pics here for you all to see hehe

Ok somewhere to start, I'm just going to go ball park as somewhere to start. Tyres use these pressures 38psi rear & 36psi front & make sure you set these pressures when tyre cold. If you look in tool kit you will see a tool that is curved with a small notch there are 2 like this the small one is for rear shock preload (spring tension) the large one is for adjusting rear hub for chain tension. Now if you look rear of bike at top of shock you will see a ring that has notches that sit in lugs on shock body & the notches on ring are at different levels that is the preload adjuster. If you use tool & turn ring you can add preload or decrease preload to your liking, higher notches add more & lower decrease preload. You will need a friend to help measure rear sag because you need to be sitting on bike to measure put bike on center stand & use a vertical line above rear wheel & measure. Use say hub axle edge as one point & stick a piece of tape on exhaust for the other so you can make a measurement (you need 2 points to make any measurement). Rear wheel off ground measure distance between your points & write it down then take bike off center stand & sit on it with feet on pegs (do next to a tree or wall & use one hand to support you & bike) friend then takes another measurement between the same 2 points as before. The difference between these 2 points should be 25-35mm, closer to 35mm if you like a softer ride & to adjust use preload ring increase/decrease. Now on the bottom of shock LHS of bike you will see a screw that can be turned with a flat blade screw driver (its just above triangle looking plate) that is rebound adjustment & you will see arrow markings pointing to H (harder) & S (softer) now its very hard to explain effect this has but in a nut shell it helps stop bounce & resists spring return (slows it down so doesn't go up/down like a bouncy ball). I suggest you set mid point with this setting & to do that wind it with no force (will turn to a stop both ways) in the S direction & once stops turning count the turns it takes to go in the H direction until it stops again & then turn back to the S direction 1/2 that distance. DON'T USE FORCE LIKE YOUR DOING UP A BOLT IT IS A CONTROL VALVE. Now go for a ride & if still bouncy add 1/4 turn more in H direction & then ride some more & add more if needed or go in S direction if you feel its to hard. I won't go into fork setting as your not complaining about them but above is enough info to try some things yourself to see if you can sort your problem but the VFR will feel allot different in the rear to a busa so it also could be your still adjusting to difference in feel.

Now this is a hard one because going on your size & weight plus the fact you sald you know nothing about suspension so it is still probably on factory settings I would think your rear would be a bit bouncy (soft). When was the last time you inspected tyre pressures front/back? If its an 08 which means you bought it new maybe your dealer may help you out with adjustment setings (this normally is unlikely) I would find a suspension tuner in your area & go have a chat, normally they will help you out with sag settings & explaining things for nothing but if you go to www.ozvfr.net as I see you live WA there maybe a member there willing to come help you out. If you have some mechanical aptitude I can explain adjustments but allot easier to be shown.

Oh - you mean: Ok taken with phone camera, but forgot to add solo seat cowl. Before its said, foot pegs will be changed because there is going to be rear sets fitted. It also has 954 mirrors to be fitted & to add to parts list braided lines front back, high rise staintune, K&N filter. The ignition was also replaced with a 954 item due to standard 750 ignition barrel was smaller & looked dumb in triple clamp + has a nicer key haha & yes the same fuel cap off 954 was used so same key. Pics here http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=40110