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It's nothing I haven't expressed to Murray before, it will be a very good example of a franfenviffer 4th gen when finished, I just want to see the finished product not tall stories.

Honestly don't make promises you can't keep, your worse than my daughters with excuses. Had kids, move states, etc note to self you have had that bike build going for over 10 years there is no excuse unless your build is a prototype with technology that hasn't been invented yet. I fully understand a passion to tinker, but the same thing for over 10 years that your not even building a totally new frame or any major engineering is just sad. You would be far better off returning the 4th gen back to totally stock standard & displaying it as a center piece in your home. I know that is harsh muzz but come on you have been posting pictures & commenting on builds & mods for so long using yours as examples but in reality you didn't learn the lesson of little toot properly.....you think you can but FAILED. We don't want stupid pictures of one extra bolt installed, finish the thing & post the completed project because the time you have taken you could have worked on the bike for 30mins per week & it still would have been finished years ago.

I don't like to get caught up in the suspension suggestion box.....because I have tried allot of options & know for a fact one option is a guarantee of satisfaction the other options are like wearing shoes with holes, they work but have a limited usefulness (but they did save you money). You won't need 2 shocks if you have one shock that can do the job, because you have been used to the crap OEM shock which has the dampening quality of a tee shirt on a girl running with DD's is why you feel you may need 2 shocks. A quality AFTERMARKET shock like Ohlins/Penske/etc with remote compression will do wonders for your application. You may need to compromise just a little on the spring rate but only on the optimal rate for solo riding it's not like your going to need a truck spring. The reason I say this is that MAGICAL process you get that works properly with a remote res, compression with the piston & o-ring design, not the hit & miss bladder design OEM shocks like a 929. Compression is a wonderful thing when you start to load your bike over the fitted spring rate, compression resists shock compression & it is amazing how well it works just increasing the compression rate a few clicks to handle the extra load.

I'm not sure the length of the 954 forks but thinking there same as the CBR1000RR forks as people were interchanging 929/954 forks with CBR1000RR to obtain the radial callipers for there 929/954. I know for a fact the CBR1000RR forks will work & your front end will be very close to standard height & the big difference is when riding they don't dive anywhere near as far as the standard forks which makes more difference in the real world when forks under load when referring to operating length. To make them work you have to use a 929/954 top triple clamp due to the lower mounting point with the gull wing design which mounts them about 15mm lower so you gain that length & then the fork itself can be modified internally to gain some more length if needed & then there is your rider sag which with standard forks on a VFR is average 40mm so set bike up with less rider sag you again have more length. The key is you have to mount clipons bellow top triple so convertibars or the like are needed, but if you have a street fighter you can use adaptors top triple for motocross bars. R1 forks are longer but you will still need the same clipon setup as above & the added problem you will need to use custom wheel/rotor spaces, if you use 929/954 or CBR1000RR 04-07 forks standard spacers are all you need. The only draw back with the Honda forks is the front wheel is 3 spoke & not a good match, you can customize a RC51 wheel to work, the good part of the R1 forks is the R1 wheel is a good match. I have fitted R1 forks to a friends 4th gen & it works fine as they came from my 6th gen which now has CBR1000RR forks. On fork length what is missed when comparing the standard fork length is most have there standard forks 10mm or more raised through triple clamps to aid with turn in & quicken steering so the length your after you should measure on your existing set up from bottom of head stock to axle & then allow for rider sag you use to determine if shorter forks will work for the way you like your bike set up.

I can take a close up if needed.

I don't know what you mean by you can swing the bike? BUT the hiss ring which is just a receiver for the key transponder & the ecu may still work even cracked. You probably can't hear anything because you don't have your tank fitted which is where the fuel pump is that you hear prime when you turn ign on. Do you get the dash light up? & you can test fuel pump connecting wiring has supplied voltage when ign on with multimeter. If hiss is locking out your bike from memory the fuel pump doesn't prime. If hiss is working just use some epoxy to seal the cracks.

I find it strange you haven't been given correct info yet, the rhs front calliper is very different front the gen5 to the gen6 because the gen5 has that calliper linked to the link brake system & the gen6 calliper doesn't. The gen5 system uses one piston on rhs & lhs in link brake system when rear brake applied, the gen6 only uses one piston in the lhs calliper, that is why the rhs gen5 calliper you have has two ports. You can use it on your gen6 as will bolt in place but you will only have two pistons not three working unless you link all the ports into the front brake stand alone brake line system which would be messy. For future ref the gen5 & gen6 front brake that works solely off the front brake master cylinder is a separate system & isn't linked to the link brake system, on the gen5 it controls two pistons in each calliper front & gen6 in controls two pistons lhs calliper & all three rhs calliper. The link brake system on a gen5 when activated by rear brake lever uses one piston each calliper & only one piston lhs calliper gen6. The calliper mounted lhs master cylinder on both gens activates the rear calliper link brake piston. GEN5 front brake only two pistons each calliper link brake one piston each calliper (activated rear brake lever) GEN6 front brake only two pistons lhs calliper & three pistons rhs caliper link brake one piston lhs calliper (activated rear brake lever) BOTH GENS lhs calliper mounted master cylinder activates one piston rear calliper

Volume is probably the wrong word, when I used that term I was referring to the fluid movement needed to function the different piston sizes to designed force required.

I tend to disagree it is a simple procedure, the abs system is designed to work with the link brake system which has a certain fluid capacity & extra proportional valves. The size or caliper pistons & fluid volume has a impact on the piston size used in master cylinders & my limited understanding of abs is to release pressure there is a release piston. What determines that piston sizing so the brakes don't release to much pressure & then when reapply add to much pressure. Both linked brake master cylinders have to be replaced when you do fork upgrade & delink brakes & then you will need to run lines into abs system so the total fluid volume will change in a major way as well as forces applied in braking system front/rear. Granted I maybe wrong & the only way to know is either have all the tech data on the VFR system & changes your going to make & do the math or experiment which could be costly when you add all the modifications needed to find it doesn't work or worst case find it doesn't work on the road in an emergency.

My vote goes to Sargent, had the Corbin for many years & did like it but compared to the Sargent (you don't know till you try both) the Corbin for me was inferior, the added bonus is the Sargent weighs about the same as the standard seat as the Corbin with it's base weighs as much as a stack of bricks. The icing on the cake is the Sargent is much cheaper, anybody who I let ride my bike comments on the seat cumfort so I'm one very happy Sargent seat owner.

Wow, totally the opposite to how I ride, which is slow in fast out. I've always felt more comfortable doing that. Doesn't mean I'm right or fast though! Your way is the safest way for riding on the road, the only draw back is you tend to wear out rear tyres faster using power to fling the bike round the apex & out of the corner. I picked up the habit from track riding to go into a corner fairly hot so you have allot more lean angle so you can't use as much throttle at the apex due to smaller tyre patch on the road, so you have to wait longer to apply max throttle out of the corner when bike is more upright. I don't know why but a get a buzz when the foot pegs on the VFR scrap but tend to use my boot toe slider as the gauge so I don't keep wearing out pegs. I have cut my leg a few times working on the bike walking around it when the pegs grind on the edge & become sharp. What I like most about the VFR is the stability & there is so much grip with modern tyres on there side walls you can scrap out a VFR so easy, but you do have to be careful because it is so easy that you don't go to far & hit something with no give & lose rear wheel traction. Was following friend that just went to far & his bike spun on the center stand like a top while he was sliding across the road.

I tend to agree about shifting technique is the main factor, but from day one I have used Motul 5100 10w40 which is a semi synthetic, I never bothered with a full synthetic mainly due to frequent oil changes at about 5000km intervals & the oil was doing it's job because it would come out fairly dirty at change time. I haven't really changed my clutch/shift technique at all because after riding for over 35 years I probably set in my ways by now. When riding the VFR hard high rpm & allot of gear changes I would tend to get a false neutral every now & then, yes some operator error was probably the cause. Due to also owning a CBR1000RR which I run Castrol Power 1 Racing 5W40 which is a full synthetic I decided to only keep one oil for both bikes (I can buy the Castrol for about same price as the Motul I was using) & have started using it in the VFR. I have noticed my VFR will operate at a slightly lower temperature & haven't had a false neutral since changing. Now I'm not a chemical engineer & I don't agonize over what oil to use it just has to do the job so I don't see any metal partials at oil change time & I want it to come out dirty at 5000kms which tells me it is doing it's job. Like I said my technique wouldn't have changed so there must be some part of the equation which is oil related.

I don't see them mentioned but I'm really impressed with the Metzeler M5 on the VFR outstanding grip, great wet weather performance & I get better wear & grip from them than Pilot Powers & here in Australia there cheaper than Michelin. They have a sports bike profile so turn in & response is the big plus for me & they tend to warm up just as fast as the Michelin's. My standard set up before was Pilot powers front & back & if I felt I wanted better mleage for long trips Road2 on the rear, hate Road2 front very unresponsive tyre.

Renevator my thoughts on your last post. I'm of the opinion good suspension isn't just for track days or fast riders (corner monkeys) but for everyone, yes in this day & age money is tight & allot of riders use there bikes only as a toy & those that are married have to justify the outlay just to have a bike in the garage. But frankly that is the wrong attitude, your far better off buying a cheaper bike so you have the funds to have the suspension modified to suit YOU. In the wash up your going to be far safer, your confidence/skills will grow without you even knowing & in the end when the need arises you will be a faster rider with a higher margin of safety than if you own a bike with much more hp that cost allot more money. Parker made a comment about the R1 setup change to his 4th gen "I gain more time & use the brakes less" now his skill level didn't just change over night, what did change was the suspension on his bike nothing else. He is using the brakes less which means his corner entry has increase, yet if he needs to use the brakes harder like before suspension upgrade now he will stop quicker. That alone means one thing a higher level of safety, larger margin for error. I mean lets be honest we all make mistakes sometimes, some of those mistakes cause damage & pain, if you can increase the chance of recovery from said mistakes that has to be worth it's weight in gold. You will always have the money factor involved so really people should modify there suspension for the best possible outcome within there budget because any upgrade is better than none. I note in your post some have said they lost this & that, well concentrating on USD conversions the only thing you lose is some turning cycle which only effects U turns, big deal how often do we do U turns in tight places & if you do just prepare like stop back your bike at an angle, then proceed forward to complete the U turn. Turn in etc is all part of set up like bike geometry, tyre profile, spring rate & valving, if people aren't happy then you need to address these factors. There are to many that do a fork conversion but forget the forks there using weren't designed for the bike there riding so you need to have valving/spring rate set up to suit the bike. More so with sportsbike forks on the vfr as I have mentioned the vfr doesn't load the front end anything like the forces a sportsbike does so to adapt to use with vfr you need modifications & not doing so is like baking a cake & not putting icing on it. If my budget only allowed a purpose built aftermarket rear shock but meant I had to keep the standard forks with the correct spring rate & valving to match then that would be what I would do, but with the standard forks I would be changing out the fork oil every 5000kms to help keep response at the best level possible. The oil does contaminate quickly with the standard forks, I have pulled them apart at 2000kms & the oil was more contaminated than my R1 forks at 10000kms.