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The 6th gen front end keeps the same length/rake/trail as the standard 4th gen forks the triple offset is same 40mm, it is direct bolt on but the problem is the 6th gen LHS fork with the link brake master cylinder & linkage, so really not a swap worth doing on a road bike. For track didn't mater it looked odd & to stop the link brake master cylinder moving the calliper I just sealed off the ports so wouldn't move. So really it was a doggy install using parts I had lying around spare, you could have a bkt machined up to remove the LHS fork link brake master cylinder & linkage but would still look odd & most like our road bikes to look bling.

Psychological ;) Riding a bike has that element :-) I'm also a 4th gen fanboy, in my opinion the best VFR built & was the most fun track bike I ever had. Age means nothing when the frame & engine is so good & when you upgrade the suspension with a front end swap with better brakes it will match any new bike available with same weight. All my track bike had was 6th gen rear shock, forks, rear wheel (6th gen forks just has link brake master cylinder sealed off). Just the stiffer front end with better brakes improved the bike 100%. This is my track bike converted back to road bike with F4i front end

Yep just to be very clear we are all different, there are many things in this world that aren't required but nice to have. One point I will make if you haven't say ridden a VFR set up say like mine then you have zero idea the difference so comments standard reworked forks can be set up to match the same performance are from ignorance. It's like saying some food is yuk without tasting it. Are the CBR Ohlins forks on my VFR a little overkill probably but honestly the feel, confidence & extra safety due to maximum road response there worth every cent to me.

I promise you'd be no faster on your VFR with a CBR/whatever front end than you would be on my Maxton rejigged front end. It's night and day, I have two VFR's so can compare back to back. I guarantee I would be faster on my CBR front end, the better radial brakes alone is one advantage. I actually have Ohlins CBR forks on my 6th gen at the moment, I have also had re-gigged standard forks, RC51 & R1 every fork upgrade has been an improvement.

I will just make a comment on rebuilding the 4th gen forks that have decent mileage on them, the internal cartridge stem seal will be worn out which means the oil bypasses the valving which isn't a good thing. That particular seal isn't replaceable you either have to buy new cartridge or see if a suspension tech can modify to make seal replaceable. The problem is the valving is adjusted to compensate which isn't such a good solution as you lose response. It doesn't take rocket science to know the 4th gen forks flex which in turn wears the seal & as it's not replaceable, high mileage the seal will be toast. If you don't believe a upgraded front end with stiffer forks that have remote adjustment rebound/compression & better brakes isn't an improvement over stock you need to ride one with those mods & you will be collecting the parts to do yours the very next day. It's like saying the stock RSV4 handles just as good as the Ohlins equipped factory.

I haven't really looked into the CBR600RR forks but being so short would probably be an issue for your usage touring, as the installs have been mainly street fighter conversions so pillion & luggage not a concern. Also there not as robust as most of the other options due to light weight of CBR600 which prob wouldn't be an issue but VFR fully loaded for touring is a sizeable amount of extra weight. I would be more inclined to use CBR1000RR before 08 which are longer, stronger & also bolt on affair with 954/929 triples but the wheel is 3 spoke (you can use RC51 wheel but needs mods which adds cost & those wheels are becoming hard to find so higher $$). Ground clearance with lean angle you don't really want to compromise much with the riding you do, the shorter the fork the more you compromise. Rule of thumb from installs I have done is you want 505-510mm length from bottom of head stock to centre of axle. Honestly the most simple is F4i there the same dia as 6th gen & have all the adjustments required, they would also prob be the least $$ outlay to convert.

From my memory when you bought the Penske your requirement was loading with your pillion in a million & luggage, so when solo your rear would be stiff. Also a soft front end wouldn't be helping either.

Trev I just saw your post on mail list as have been away but will post some info here for you. There is no such thing as a straight swap for 4th gen VFR to convert to fully adjustable forks especially inverted, the closest you will get in that respect is F4i. There not inverted but there a larger diameter (same as 6th gen) but come with rebound & compression remote adjustment. Parts required are: F4i forks, F4i guard, F4i axle, either F4i wheel (3 spoke) or 5th/6th gen wheel, F4i/6th/5th gen rotors, F4i/RC51/CBR954/CBR929 callipers, F4i master cylinder best match existing clutch master, 6th gen triple clamps, 6th gen clipons. This setup uses same offset as 4th gen. R1 forks are great but you need custom spacers for axle & rotors made which complicates the process big time with the 954/929 triple clamps used, you can use the R1 triples with a special top bearing that is obtainable apparently (think there is a post here about it somewhere) so then no custom spacers required. The offset with 954/929 triples changes to 30mm, can't remember offset for R1 triples (VFR offset is 40mm). The least hassle inverted forks are RC51 as you can use complete front end (must be SP1 triples). CBR1000RR front ends before 08 will also work but with 954/929 triples without any custom spacers, but due to length you need forks modified which gains about 5-10mm extra length or just make slight ground clearance compromise. There are prob more forks that work but above are what I have installed & know works, I'm sure CBR600RR forks are to short & to use you will have to make a ground clearance compromise that is the inverted ones. The early model CBR600RR before they fitted inverted maybe usable but someone else would need to supply that info. Your Penske only requires the correct spring for your weight, you never had spring changes for your light weight when you bought it second hand so what do you expect.

I can't believe the rubbish online the event has caused, what is more shocking is there are VR fans so blinded by there hero nothing but VR is a saint comes from there mouths. I wish it never happened but one of the greatest riders of all time has let the pressure get to him, something he did pride himself doing to others & had a brain fart. VR fans blame MM because he was fighting with VR slowing him down in there view purposely, yet I guarantee if VR said nothing after PI most VR fans wouldn't even think MM was doing anything but racing, VR planted the seed. I don't have a fav just watch motogp for the racing & if you read all aval info since start of season you will know the Honda front end has been a problem especially with full fuel load. So MM at PI rested his front tyre (MM explanation) & if you watch the race MM doesn't dice with VR much & last lap actually takes 5 points off Lorenzo. This race started it all & VR comments based on this race are so hard to even want to believe you would have to be very one eyed to believe the VR scenario. Did MM become a serial pest to VR at Sepang yes, did VR contribute to MM frame of mind yes, did VR knowingly run MM wide out of frustration yes. The biggest excuse for VR is MM was deliberately slowing him down, I thought that's called racing. If VR was so fast then why couldn't he make a pass stick, Lorenzo his main rival that he wanted to beat more than any other rider passed VR with ease & pulled away, VR had a brain snap because of the pressure to obtain his 10th title & is wrapped up in conspiracy theories.

I tend to hate this type of blanket statement, you can be stationary on your bike & that is still a risk on the road. There are things you should only do closed roads & track but you can be on a road with a speed limit much higher than some corner speeds allow keeping it legal. That is what riding is about corners & shit can still happen staying within speed limits.

The fact is in the future probably every bike released will have ABS which I don't like for 2 main reasons, yes the newer systems decrease the effects but still me no like. 1. In a situation that requires locking wheels & laying the bike down ABS isn't going to make that easy, I have personally had to lay a road bike down before hitting a barrier gate that with bike sliding on it's side I went under. 2. I ride allot of mountain roads that have corrugation & at warp with hard braking the ABS releases braking force over that type of surface & it can mean your in the bushes. My friend who used to own a VFR1200 had to change pants so to speak after one particular corner when this scenario happened. I also always brake into corners when at warp it's called trail braking & is also a tool to keep front end loaded.

You have to make sure the nut flange is crushed into the key way, that is the locking mech. That nut uses a large amount of torque so not easy to work lose but heat cycles over the years can effect the torque. My 6th gen has 80000kms but at 65000kms my rear hub bearings were toast mainly due to the fact Honda uses minimal grease, you need to periodontally test for play in the hub buy placing bike center stand & try to wiggle wheel. Once the bearings are on there way out the heat within hub will increase, I would be replacing the hub ass with that sort of failure. Your also meant to replace that locking nut eveytime you remove it.

The bottom line is very clear cut, the spring bolt & connecting parts are designed for expected loading with some leeway, if you feel less strength just one bolt is acceptable risk then all is fine. I would personally have that type of repair in the back of my mind while riding which would effect my confidence so I would fix properly with correct length bolts that have correct length of thread engaged locking them in place.

Just for info & I don't know the standard shock mount process to manufacture but it all comes down to the make up of the steel used & how it is manufactured to meet the spec supplied by Honda engineer. There would probably be some form of heat treatment as well & if bent from bar stock they probably wouldn't cold form. The bar stock OP used even if 5mm is yum cha stuff you really have zero idea it's shear strength etc & it would have also been better to have heated the steel before bending, would have also bent easier. Anyway none of that matters your bkt will work fine it's just a peace of mind move to strengthen it so will be over & above the stress requirement. If I feel there is something in a build that could cause a problem then I will always spk up & give my opinion because if we don't look out for each other who else will.

Do me a favour, please box that rear shock mount just weld on a flat section each side but weld the full arc, you don't need to go that fare down just say 20mm from top. Why because those bends will fatigue with vibration as the bar stock you used isn't that thick, if it was you wouldn't be able to bend it, It's fine when you mill a bkt from solid block but bending you have already fatigued the steel. Better to be safe that sorry & it won't take much work.

It's very simply remove the rear fender ass & then remove the steel bkt that is part of that ass which has plate light attached. Then bolt just the bkt back in place & bolt your plate to the bkt. If your able to move plate higher than the standard position of the plate light just move the light higher on bkt by drilling new mounting holes higher. If you can go higher than mounting the existing plate light allows don't use it & mount aftermarket small plate light instead you can even buy led light plate mounting bolts if needed.

Those bars will simply be to low for the vfr you can simply see that by placing that mounting plate over your existing vfr triple. Due to your new forks length you also wont have enough tube to mount clipons above triple clamp. You also wont get enough rise or adjustment with helibars when mounted under top triple, you have to use a clipon system like convertibars or the mx type bar conversion.

Due to the length of your forks you will have to mount the clipons bellow top triple like the convertibars in most cases, or do the top triple motocross type bar conversion. Just as a rule of thumb for you as have done many a conversion 6th gen, from bottom of frame were steering head bearing is too center of axle you want about 510mm of fork length.

Before I start I will apologize for my rant. RC213V-S who bloody cares, Honda for the last few years have totally lost the plot when it comes to what real world riders want, we don't want what some arrogant design engineer tells us we want. This bike is pointless except to stroke the ego's of the rich who will more than likely just add it to there exotics collection that sits on show in there air conditioned garage. Those that will put road miles on them also wont be the type of person that will ride the bike with venom, it will be some poser that is more worried about the look at me aspect that the thrill of the stead he is riding. I personally don't see myself ever buying another new model Honda if for some reason my 6th gen implodes & I need to buy another bike. Just take this forum for a very simple example of the wish list the replacement for the 6th gen should have been & what did we get the VFR1200. The VFR1200 for those that enjoy what it offers is a good bike but it simply wasn't what those with a 5/6th gen wanted as an upgrade. Then few years later we get the 8th gen, pathetic it only came out because the 6th gen is really a 10+ year old model & people VFR fans weren't buying the VFR1200 like Honda wanted. The 8th gen I'm not bagging what I'm saying is they already had the 6th gen which except for upgrades that weren't even required it's the same bike under the skin. The 8th gen should have been given a decent hp increase to warrant the added rider aids like traction control etc, hell there old design CBR1000RR still doesn't have traction control but it's an upgrade on a 100hp 220 odd kg sports tourer. I'm not stopping my CBR1000RR 08 was a great bike as an upgrade from the 07 but it's now 2015 & it's still more or less the same, every other manufacturer show case hyper sportbike (except Suzuki but doesn't matter as the GSXR sucks anyway) has had major tech/hp upgrades. Jonathan Rea stayed loyal riding the same bike for years waiting for the upgrade that never happened, just look what he is doing on a Kawasaki that has updated the model. Honda the bikes that have wings has a different meaning now, you have to believe in fairy wings to get a Honda you want.

NEVER under estimate the power of your passion, you may surprise yourself & everybody else, it is amazing what just cleaning/polishing/painting achieves, have fun with your build.

So this is the special project, now I will be very honest as we all like different things I'm not a fan of street fighters, cafe racers or naked bikes, my idea of a naked format is a MX or enduro that I can cover in mud in the bush. But what I like about this bike that appeals to me is 1. it's blue my fav colour. 2. the gen5/6 rear wheel I'm sick of everybody thinking the gen 3 rear wheel is the bee's knees, again my fav is the gen 5/6. 3. the CBR 08> tail it is again in my opinion the best looking stream line tail, it is a shame on the CBR the front is pig ugly. 4, attention to finishing everything with detail. Great work seb but were is the gun holder, some of your gun modifications are my fav mods you do outstanding :-)