ciprinakos

See here:

It will get rid of the surging in lower revs, as the colleague said above but overall the consumption will slightly increase because now the ECU can't make the fine adjustments in the fueling due to no/false reading of the O2 sensors.

For those of you who install a factory pro shift kit on a V-tec (2002-2010 / 6th generation VFR), first install the arm and spring and only after that put the star in position (a pesky job). Do it like this because the spring is quite strong and you risk to damage the thread on arm & spring bolt. After mounting the arm & spring, use a screwdriver to keep the arm's micro-bearing away from the star while mounting (if done right you can secure the screwdriver holding the arm by the foot peg during star's installation). You only need to drain the oil not the coolant. Good luck!

Eventually I've written to dynojet and they told me that 2 wires cable is ok since the autotune needs only these two for communicating with the pcv ... for those wandering by themselves as I did. cheers!

putting aside the Can cable (and so the uselessfulness of the autotune at the moment) the PCV works great. I can't believe that I don't need to use the clutch at low speed & rpm - no fuss between 1-3k rpm in first & second gears. and the vtec transition is gone completely as far as I can tell. this is a great investment & I'm happy abt it. unfortunately I don't have time to fiddle with it 'cause I'm going to work (sailor) but I'll see to it on return. in the mean time can anybody post a picture of how a Can cable should look like - I'm interested more in the wire arrangement on both conectors. many thanks!

Here's what I'm talking about...

I finaly installed the PCV wt AutoTune on my 2003 VTEC but I got some troubles. First the temperature is not showing in the computer display, no gear, speed or AFR. The temperature & speed signals are getting in. I've cheched the temp voltage signal and is the same as GPM (1.48V @ 54deg). The speed signal should be also ok because I'm using the same signal used for GIpro X and were installed in the same time. I'll try the speed & gear calibrations myself soon. The autotune LED is flashing but I have no ideea what that means and I get zero value on AFR which, the manual say, is might be the CAN cable. The CAN cable is ok to have only 2 wires? For some reason I have only 2. Any sugestions?

You'll note that more than just the forks are involved with these swaps. ABS cannot be preserved for the same reason as the requirement to get rid of the linked braking setup: the new forks do not have the proper mounting bosses or proper wheel offset to retain the original brake calipers. Those calipers are needed for both linked brakes and ABS. Given that the new forks are generally from a bike with better brakes, the trade-off between better brakes and linked/ABS brakes is usually considered part of the advantage. Thanks for info. I can't complain much about brakes - I can use better pads if I'll need. My concern was, by changing suspension forks, to keep the ABS. Since I'll upgrade the rear I was thinking to do the same with the front ... bad luck

Did anybody did the front end conversion on an ABS VFR? Preserving the ABS is what's keeping me from atempting the upgrade. From what i've seen on this topic all the modified bikes were non ABS. CBS can be dropped ... I guess, but I'm not willing to do the same for ABS which saved my butt several times. Thanks!