Ryanme17

Not sure about the track pair, but for your street boots you want a pair of Icon Accelerants. They usually run about $125, but are worth it. I would highly recommend them. They are light, waterproof (well, for a while, at least) look like normal shoes, offer good protection for what they are, and are the most comfortable piece of footwear I own.

Well, is it running? What kind of shape is it in mechanically?

You're right that Pilot Road 2's (a particular sport-touring tire) grip almost as well as sport tires (to a point) but actually, sport tires warm up faster than sport touring tires. They do, however, like to have more heat to be grippy, so it's a trade-off.

This is interesting. I've only seen the ones that go all the way around front and back and look like little neck cages. Ones like this. How does your neck protector compare?

I had a nail in my tire on the way down to TMAC this year. I drove around Indiana forever (wasting good riding time) before I found a shop to fix it. Hundreds of redneck Harley mechanics everywhere, but I finally found a Honda dealer to do it. $13 and a great patch job later I was all set. Until I ran over another nail within 40 miles of getting my tire patched. AAGGGHGGGHHHHHAH! But it all worked out okay.

On a SSSA VFR???

Wow, this is an old thread that got resurrected. I'm inclined to disagree with myself from 2 years ago and say that your best bet is to sand it, fill it in with a good bondo or glazing putty, then paint over it.

No offense taken. I just have been hosed by incompetent mechanics (even at the dealership). Like Kaldek, I have no problems being proven wrong, this just doesn't sound like an ECM problem to me. Also, I've never heard of an ECM going bad. What I don't understand is if your mechanic thinks it is the ECM, why do you have to buy it? This could go one of two ways, either it is the ECM or it's not. If it is, and you buy it, great, you're all set and are happy riding. If it isn't and you buy it, you've got one very expensive paperweight. If it is and the shop buys it and then you pay them, great, you're all set and are happy riding. If it's not, then you aren't out anything if it turns out to be something else.

Neck protectors are still fairly new. Last time I was at the track people were saying we'd be required to use them on the track before too long... Personally, I'm going to wait until there's more experience with them, and hopefully they get less big and clunky...

Haven't we been over this before?

Let's be clear on our wordage here, when you guys are saying back protector, you are referring to an actual back protector, and not the single-piece foam pad that can be inserted into the back of a jacket, right? Even if CE approved, I think of this is a back pad, and not a back protector. Back pad: 1 piece of foam, goes inside of jacket. Some track days will require more protection. Back protector: multiple foam pieces, with multiple plastic pieces. Mounts with thick velcro straps that wrap around the rider. Sometimes required for use on track. Is this right?

I don't know where he got his, but I know that member Throttlepimp does fantastic work and could easily make these. Send him a pm! +1000. Throttlepimp does a fantastic job for a very good price.

Did a quick edit of one of my photos but they look like this... You have lowering blocks AND peg feelers?! You are a brave man.

I've tried that and all have refused to touch a motorcycle tire for liability reasons. Now I just go with unbalanced tires, and never have had an issue.

Wow, these look awesome and are sure to last a while. However, I am new to knee sliding, and still enjoy that sound of plastic scraping asphalt. :) Thanks, will check into these. E-bay! Duh! Everything is on E-bay for cheap, why didn't I think of this?

Where do you track Pros and knee-draggers like to buy your pucks at? Do local stores often have them or is online the best bet? Do I want to buy a specific type of hard lexan or plastic or nylon so that they last? Here is a pic of the cheap, soft plastic knee pads that came with my cheap chinese pants: Where it looks buckled it actually wore through the plastic and into the leather and velcro backing material, and this is only over the span of one track day. I'd like something that will last longer than that.

My apologies. Re-reading my post I see that it came off as personally judgmental and presumptive. I did not mean that at all. And yes, I ASSumed that if something as small as a VTEC kick can cause the tires to kick out and run wide in a turn one might be running too fast, but I meant this as a general reminder to all of us and not a personal indictment. My intent was to err on the side of caution, and I did not mean to single you out or pretend to know your riding style. This was not meant as a personal criticism. I just know that I always have the temptation to ride over my head on the street and often throw that reminder out there.

A VTEC hit is fun, but it is downright dangerous in a turn. So I think you wouldn't really want double the hit. This is the same reason turbos don't exist on bikes anymore. The sudden turbo power surge can at the least make you run wide and at worse make you highside. And I have highsided before - you don't want that. Derek I hate to move off topic, but if you're riding around a corner on a public road at above 90% of your riding ablity, then maybe VTEC isn't the concern. A VFR is not a pure sport bike, and should not be treated as one. Safe riding means riding at a PACE where one can react to unforeseen challenges, VTEC transition being the least of them.

If you're going to mix profile types, you should put the more aggressive tire on the front and the more touring tire on the rear. You want the front falling into turns and the rear following, not the other way around. As far as recommendations go. I would highly recommend a Michelin Pilot Road 2. I have not found a better tire.

I only notice my VTEC transition when the engine is about 165 degrees. Once it warms up the abrupt transition goes away.

Although I am one of the people who think that because the bike was designed to run with 2 valves that it just wouldn't be right on four in low RPM's don't let that stop you. With a PCIII and a good tuning center you can adjust your fueling to run on all 4 valves. I don't think timing would need to be adjusted, and with proper fueling there's no reason you can't run on all four valves all the time. As long as you aren't running lean, I also see no reason why this would hurt your engine.

Looks heavy....

Actually, the length of the bolts on the side fairing really doesn't matter--except the one that sticks up towards the little cowl pieces that cover the fusebox has to be short. And the wider ones will only fit in the correct spots.

I would start at www.wiremybike.com with a VFRNess and a new 30 amp fuse. But you don't want to throw on new parts until you're sure you know what caused it. Did you check the connections? Wires for corrosion? Output from the R/R?

I agree that the Angel ST's wear out dangerously fast when nearing the end of their life. Another member faced the same problem and replaced his rear with a Pilot Road 2 and has no issues at all. The back tire is much better than the front, obviously. If you're going to mix tire brands your best bet is to stay within tire types. The Angels and PR2's are both sport-touring tires with similar profiles, you should be fine.