Ryanme17

Yeah but that isn't what i'm looking for, my other bike has like a million caburateur options, it also has 3 or 4 cylinder and piston options, even has ignition options, and this is a bike from the 70's! why isn't there anything like that for my RC24? You can rejet your carbeurator, a slightly richer mix (especially with aftermarket exhaust) might run SLIGHTLY better... no bolt on carbs, cams, pistons, etc, though. Sorry.

You can try new sprockets, won't technically add horsepower, but will make the bike feel more zippy at the expense of a few more revs on the highway.

Well I don't think it's a bad idea. My only concern is that I like to be able to flash my brakes in that situation.

One option would be that we each just chop off the bulb harness and send it with the housings, then splice back in and we're good to go, not ideal, but more along the line of a quick swap of parts. Almost a free white gauge cluster from ThrottlePimp, then almost exchanged my turn signal housings for clear... It's almost turning out to be a great week for me! :beer:

Dibs! Haha, but seriously, I should clarify. I do have both, but I'd have to take them off of my bike to trade, and I don't really want to do that for a few more weeks, at least, to avoid missing the last days of riding. And Seb almost certainly has more knowledge of what is required to switch over the wiring for the bulb change. If his are available right now, and you're in a hurry, go with him. Otherwise, I can figure out whatever is needed to make it work for you. I'm actually surprised 12 people haven't jumped in offering to trade, most prefer the clear signal look. :biggrin:

Thnaks OUCH! $300 for the rear....I don't like the look that much!!!!! Oh, do you want front or rears? I don't have an extra set of rears, but would be interested in trading, as I prefer the clear look to the amber. Not sure if it is simply a new socket, like in front, or not, but I can find out what is needed to switch if you'd like?

2002-2005 came with Amber. I believe they switched to clear in 2006. I just so happen to have a pair from a 2003 for sale in the classifieds section. Are you interested? Or I'd be more than happy to trade straight up. :blink: And, the bulb is a different type, so you'd have to find the correct socket and rewire to this.

There are a few other posts on this as well, but only the old PCII's allow you to adjust ignition timing. They intercept the signal before the it gets to the ECU, and so it can tell the computer that the timing is mentally challenged, and the computer will advance it. PCIII and PCV's intercept the signal coming from the ECU to the fuel injectors control module (or something like that). A few users have done this, none have reported huge power gains, but as far as I know, no one has dyno'ed before and after to find out. Also, you'd need to use higher octane gas. This is another mod that would only help when WOT in the upper RPM range.

Very few people update the hi-beams to HID. The reason is that HID takes several seconds to fully turn on. I've seen 1 bulb set ups with a switch that changes the angle of the bulb (and thus the beam) to simulate hi-beams from HID, but I think that's when you buy a full HID unit including the reflector.

+1! Or just dremel the tab off and rotate it as you please. I really don't understand the advantage to switching sides. The bars are not offset, so all you're doing is sliding them back a bit farther, seems like a lot of work for something that could be done by loosening the pinch bolts, readjusting the position, then tightening the pinch bolts...

Do we know for a fact that having them at the CBR angle would be bad? The reason I ask is because the adapter your describing would be shaped like a very thin wedge of cheese, and how would you have enough area for the mirror screws to thread into? You could permanently glue it to a set of Lobster extenders, perhaps, and then tap threads through both?

A mount to correct the angle combined with some lobster extenders should help.

The factory set up is for an Asian rider, yes, but that's how Mother Honda does it, and so that's how our bikes are. Honda isn't the only manufacturer to do this. At the Lee Parks Clinic he went through and took a quick look at all of our bikes, not one was really set up well. Some of the more expensive options (like the BMW electronic adjustable suspension) were the worst. Not many bikes even have compression and rebound damping adjustability, pretty much just GSXR's and Race Replicas. Why don't they do this? It wouldn't be cost effective, because, as others have pointed out, the average rider doesn't think about this. The average rider, given a test ride, isn't thinking how well the bike performs, he's thinking how it feels. And, even though a softer suspension isn't better, given a short test ride over a bumpy road, it feels more forgiving. That's what sells. Magazine reviewers, in particular, seem to not care about a too-soft suspension, but seem to hate a too-harsh suspension. It's a vicious cycle...

I was about to say, "my temperature sensor doesn't go down that low!" when I realized it's in degrees Celsius... And don't ask me how I know...

!! 0 weight should be on your arms, hands, and wrists. Next time you ride, consciously think about pulling your elbows in and making sure that there isn't any weight on your arms. Instead, weight the balls of your feet, squeeze the tank with your knees (this takes most of the weight off) and straighten your lower back by kind of pushing your stomach forward. It takes a while to get used to, but this posture should take ALL of the weight off of your hands. And, it sounds like helibars probably will help in your case getting you a bit more upright. The VFR is actually fairly upright for a sport-bike. If you think the VFR has a handstandy, racy posture, don't even try to ride a R1/CBR/GSXR/etc!!

It should say on the ticket what he clocked you with. And, in my limited traffic infraction experience, it has been best to fight it, but if you can get it lowered by paying early, that would be good, too.

Yes, it is the equivalent of a Power Commander module. Mine is a RapidBike 3 Module, which has the possibility of on-the-fly change between two seperate maps. The link is below: http://www.rapidbikeusa.com/cgi-bin/shoppe...key=1146KRB3005 hey guys does anyone know whether or not the 6th gens ignition can be advanced? im not familiar with the rapid bikes, but im pretty sure with the power commander usb you have the option to add the ignition module where applicabe... are vfr's applicable? thanks No, they are not. AS of yet you can't adjust ignition on a VFR. Unless you get an old Power Commander II.

What's a rapidbike module? Same thing as a Power Commander?

No. Plenty of room, as you can see. But again, these risers are different.

I got around this by rerouting the hose so that the fork didn't get in the way. Humm..... Don't understand, got a picture? I'll try to remember to get a picture up later. But I had to take the banjo bolt off to do so. In stock form, the cable runs from the back of the engine to the inside of the left fork, and underneath the triple clamp. I routed it to the outside of the left fork, and have plenty of clearance. However, my risers are custom one-off's, not helibars, and they move the bars at least two inches towards the rear of the bike. I'm not sure if you'd get the same clearance with Helibars, now that I think about it. Do helibars just add height, or do they move them back as well?

I got around this by rerouting the hose so that the fork didn't get in the way.

Did you say 1400 miles in one day? Wow.

But a map isn't an A/F ratio, it's a percentage change from stock. It would make more sense that you tell it the correct A/F Ratio that you want (at a given RPM and throttle position) and it uses the wideband O2 sensor to hit this. Hmmm...