Ryanme17

I actually do get 10,000 miles of of a PR2 Rear. I got almost 5,000 out of a Pilot Power. Back on topic. I ordered a Pilot Power, but got there late, and apparently everyone snatched up the Pilot Powers I had reserved, so I had to go with the Pilot Pure! $30 more for tires I don't want. Oh well, it'll give me an opportunity to test them out, and they are light....

Get the PCV, IIRC, it's about the same price as the PCIII and gives you more options. A PCV without all the expensive add-on modules is really just a PCIII with better software and a 15% throttle position (PCIII just has 10's). But It gives you the option to expand later if you want, for the money you'd be better off going with a PCIII. As far as Map-by-gear goes, it's another nice feature that you don't have to use, but won't be able to have the option with a PCIII. (and 02-05 VFR's do NOT have this option, BTW) Check Coderighter's threads for info on this if you want it. I was actually going to mention that 190* is not remotely hot (I agree with BR), but didn't want to confuse things...

For those of us who are Dutch-challenged, can you give me a brief summary?

lean you say, I wasn't sure. my riding buddy said rich but I read they were already lean stock for emissions. would a leak make it even leaner? the 08 has the 5k flat that my 04 didn't?? He's right, the increase in temperature is due to a lean condition. A leak could cause that, but more than likely it's just your higher flowing exhaust. Get a PC and you'll be all set.

My clutch lever engages much more easily and smoothly since I've gone with the the2wheels cheap chinese knock-offs.

This is really easy on a 6th gen without the hazard lights. I did it two days ago, of course, I had my bars off, throttle off, etc, so that helps. Basically you just unscrew the clamshell, unscrew the wire clip that holds the wires away from the bar, and using fine (thin) flat screwdrivers take the upper ends of the contacts off by gently prying the white plastic clips out and pulling up gently on the wires. From there you can actually clean the contacts by scraping/filing them. One thing to remember is that you can leave the screw that holds the bottom portion of the switch in place, as there is no reason to remove it, it will come apart in two halves exposing the contacts. However, I have not done this on a bike where the hazards were in the way. Can you take a picture?

I saw that. That guy must have been running on flat tires to do that.

Are you talking about bending clip-ons?? If you had replaced them with rolled/lsl/dirtbike bars, then that might be an option. There's just no way you could bend clip-ons to any noticeable degree without some major deformation. Take one apart and you'll see what I mean.

How many miles would a PP set have gone?

I need to get another set of tires before my next trackday, and the Michelin guy who changes tires on the track is running a special on Pilot Pures. I could get 2 installed for only a few dollars more than Pilot Powers (I think it is because they are running low on Pilot Powers for some reason). Has anyone used these? How do they compare in mileage to Pilot Powers? The Michelin website describes them as 85% hypersport, 15% trackday. and descripes PP's as 95% Hypersport and 5% track days. Seems pretty comparable, and maybe the lighter technology plus dual compound swings them towards track or will help with mileage? Should I take it as a sign that everyone wants Pilot Powers instead and just pass these up?

No, I am referring to the "no gut" solution. So that we're all on the same page, and not arguing over definitions: Gutting the muffler involves sawing off the end caps, removing everything, and then reattaching them. What I'm referring to is removing a small section of the outflow pipe by drilling into the muffler and using a dremel. Here is the original thread: "New Way to Gut" thread Is this what you're asking about?

What you're actually doing is removing a small section of the last exhaust pipe so that the air, rather than flowing back into the middle chamber and out, can go directly from the first chamber out. You are removing this section in the circles, and the arrows show the airflow. There is a step-by-step instructional thread, but basically, you drill out the weld that holds the exit pipes in place by drilling with a 1" whole saw around the outside of the pipe, then with a small cut-off wheel, you cut the exit pipe from the inside and pull it out.

Thanks for the read! How DID your Dad do on those days when you were so sore? Remember to get that radiator replaced!

www.jakewilson.com almost always beats Motorcycle Superstore for prices, and they undoubtedly have faster shipping, and better customer service.

I'm sure that with the added heat shielding and the stock heat shields your bags will be fine. I'm also sure that without the added heat shielding and the stock heat shields your bags will be fine, but if you're worried about it, I say go ahead. Just make sure the stuff isn't flammable and doesn't touch the muffler itself.

Don't forget the 6th gen also has a much better chassis and suspension. The OEM hardbags available on 6th gen only are also excellent. While looking in the mirrors with both 5th and 6th gens behind me at TMac I also noticed the 6th gens headlights are brighter. It varied from bike to bike, but overall they seemed about twice as bright. But, a lot of people don't like the extra kick-in-the-pants when the VTEC kicks in. And the 6th gen does not have gear driven cams, as you said.

One of the heaviest helmets Webbikeworld has ever tested. But all modular helmets will be more heavy.

My comment was going to be "That is one Welsh helmet!"

Someone review this, please!

In my experience, electrical problems always seem to interrelate in one way or another. I think if you start fixing things one at a time you'll be all sorted out before you know it. Your first priority is absolutely getting that front brake light switch fixed! You should be doing most of your braking with the front brakes, and you don't want to be doing so without a brake light! Everything else is a minor problem that needs to be fixed, but this could be a major safety issue.

The newer VFR's (starting in 06??) switched to clear lenses. HOWEVER, they also switched to a different type of bulb, with a different type of harness. It is possible to find orange colored bulbs in the same harness type as the 02 bulbs, but they bulb/harness won't mount securely in the back of the lens casing, so you have to make sure you can use the back part of your current lenses with the clear part from the newer lenses. I did this on my old VFR, but I can't remember exactly how anymore.