Ryanme17

Is that rust I see?

About a month ago I was riding a section of local twisties I've done a hundred times, and for the first time everything clicked in place. You know the feeling when the bike just turns itself, yet you're in complete control. Everything is smooth and all you can do is smile. So, a year and a half for complete mental recovery? When I got the new VFR back in June of 09 I immediately replaced the tires (that was obvious) took the Lee Parks course, and just focused on technique for a year. It just took me a long while for the new technique to turn into muscle memory. I am the type of person to immediately tackle any obstacle when I fail, and so I wanted to get right back on and ride as fast and as smooth as I had before, and when it took time I would get frustrated. What really helped was just letting time pass and staying relaxed while staying in control and focusing on technique. At times I would try to focus on technique and I would be "in my head" too much. If this happens I would just have to slow down, ride relaxed and wait pass. In summation: Make sure bike is in good running order, good tires can equal confidence. Work on technique. Ride slow, ride relaxed while realizing it may take some time and work for everything to flow smoothly again, but we'll get back there. Thanks for your help everyone! It's nice to be able to look back on this. Let's keep this thread going.

Love it, but it's your bike, man, do what you want!

+1!! Custom 6th gen tach face thread coming soon!

HEATED HAND GRIPS!

There is an industrial-type upholstery shop in the manufacturing district here that will let you walk in and buy high quality foam for a really good price, you might want to check into something like that.

That's a negative. The PCIII has an ignition module--for other motorcycles, but not for the VFR. The old PCII gives some ignition timing variation. But there's nothing on the website for ignition timing adjust on the PCV (except for a harness that removes the ignition retard "knock sensor" on late model CBR's). I agree that when you're spending $1200 on an exhaust to gain 1 extra horsepower, advancing the timing and using higher octane fuel makes sense. I think that would be at least 3 horsepower, probably more.

Right! I shouldn't say it will absolutely not work, there are too many factors, and many cars use this stuff as their stock set-up. I can't be 100% sure it would make a noticeable difference, but I would strongly recommend looking for smooth tubing.

That was going to be my comment! That corrugated stuff flows so poorly you would probably be offsetting any gains from increased pressure. Fluid dynamics can be complicated, but basically the ribs create turbulence where you want good flow. Smooth would be much better.

Good write-up, but when I fried my 30 amp connector I fixed all charging woes by going with a VFRness from Tightwad, which is an excellent product at an excellent price, an easy install and doesn't have me munching-up and soldering wires.

Off topic, but I wonder about this myself, I know many older Hondas would actually drain the battery at a low idle. I suppose I could hook up a voltmeter at various RPM's and find out. Anyone in warmer weather want to do this? Find out at what point the bike is charging (and of course it would vary from bike to bike). But anyway, Yes, the R/R is always using up the excess voltage, so I think the amperage draw would be negligible and this is a good mod, way too pricey for me, but it at least seems like a good idea.

I'm considering changing out the LED's on my gauge displays for my 6th gen as detailed in this thread: http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=12148 The thread even lists part numbers for Blue LED's, my question is, does anyone know of the correct part number for a white LED's? I can solder okay, but when it comes to deciphering spec listings for LED's, I get very confused.

You take both bars off, take everything off of them, then put the left bar on the right side and the right bar on the left side. This relocates them slightly towards the rear. It is for if your hands are too far forward. It doesn't help with height, but is slightly less of a reach. Heli-bars look similar to stock bars, they are just higher and farther back.

Yes, there was a whole thread on it. Do a search if it's still there.

Fuel smell is probably as good of an indication as you can get, short of shelling out the bucks for a wide-band 02 sensor. A dyno itself won't tell you lean/rich, unless it's hooked up to a sensor.

It was random in the sense that it did not follow the previous posts, but the original post was about both the shocks and the catless header. I missed it way back when, but it does talk about using Cozye's map and just wanted to throw that out there because running lean can potentially cause damage. Just sayin'

I wouldn't recommend using Cozye's map with Catless headers unless you richen the whole map. Cozye's map is much richer than stock, but still probably not rich enough for catless. Tinymind's map is in the download's section.

Looking good! I like the mods, but if you get new plastics and paint her then we won't be able to tell it's your bike! :)

My understanding was that 6th gens come stock with Iridiums not for any performance gain, but because they last longer and therefore the bike meets emissions standards for longer (or something like that). I know that's the case for certain cars, at least.

Well that's a new one. I know vinegar and salt combined together will remove tarnish on copper and brass.

I applaud you for doing your research, but I must say go with what makes you happy! Everyone is saying suspension, and I can't argue, but how about some more comfort mods? Raised bars, a good throttle lock/cruise control, heated grips, luggage, etc can all be vary rewarding as well. I'm just playing devil's advocate here. What is it that you want out of your bike? This is the important question. If you want acceleration, add some pipes, change the gearing, maybe even catless headers. Performance in the twisties then suspension is for you. Long distance riding and comfort mods will go a long way. I certainly can't argue with the PCIII/PCV logic, they are great additions to a VTEC, but a K & N probably won't gain you any power, but will save money in the long run if you plan on riding your bike for many miles. And I know people swear by Staintunes, but $1200 for a pipe and two mufflers seems absolutely ridiculous to me!

Funny you should ask that, I was just thinking about this, actually. Well, I ride differently, but I'm not sure if that's a bad thing. The main problem was that I would get tense. Too tense, tense to the point that I couldn't react as quickly or appropriately. This has mostly been solved with saddle time, but not completely. Also, I haven't enjoyed riding quite as much because I'm worried about crashing and my insurance going up. Not about dying, mind you... I have focused on my riding a lot and I'm more smooth, but there's still just a little bit of that tension left. Also, I feel like I ride at a much slower pace, but perhaps it just feels slower because I've focused so much on technique.

Maybe a 2, the only hard part is sliding them off, and that can depend, so it can vary anywhere from a 1-5 difficulty depending on that. I'm not familiar with those, but they seem expensive, and I don't quite understand what the metal does? Was shopping for a grip with a little more girth and cushion and came accross these. They claim the little metal indention ads to the comfort somehow, I just thought they looked cool. May just go with some grip puppies (?) I think I saw mentioned in another thread until I figure out what grips to go with. Just want my left hand to not go numb after 30 minutes, though I do not death-grip the handlebars at all... If the difficulty is below a 5 my limited mechanical prowess should allow me to pull it off with some good instructions. Thanks! They do look to be good quality, and I know people who've paid a lot more for parts that only look cool. As far as installing grips goes, it's pretty basic. Do a search on here for instructions, but a little compressed air can work wonders.

Maybe a 2, the only hard part is sliding them off, and that can depend, so it can vary anywhere from a 1-5 difficulty depending on that. I'm not familiar with those, but they seem expensive, and I don't quite understand what the metal does?

Heavier bar ends can help with this a bit as well.