taglicious

Pfft. ^^^^ Your trailer queen has no say ;-)

Many are trail braking before they know what it's called. As far as the comment about a bike properly being set up, that always seemed a moderate improvement after years of just adjusting my style to whatever bike I'm riding and knowing nothing about suspension. Most of our bikes are under sprung from the factory anyway. I am not so sure about this, What I find when teaching is that most people dont really even know what trail braking really is. I've been involved in, and had many a numerous discussion about this. So many opinions on it, and variations of what it entails, who's right/wrong? Some conversations about 'trail braking', sound more like pissing contests, depending on the current crowd. < I should note this last thought is a street riding group with no track or training experience.

I used zip ties through. They'll never come off again.

I lol buddy. You get to that point, ready excited, time set aside, then realize sh-t i gotta do what?! Feel your pain, and sadly yes, they have to come off. that hose is a p.i.t.a. Better now than on a ride when she's puking hot magma all over your inner thigh lol

tried using mine as a ladder in my shop (just had to get that whatever it was) fell over while on it lol hindsight

this brings into play the amount of riders (not dissin' any one particular genre of rider---inline riders specifically) They can't figure out how VFR riders are passing them heading into a corner, and pulling away from them faster than they can get out of their own way. Especially on a 20+ year old bike.. I tell them late braking & trail braking and they are confused. How often, honestly, do you REALLY pay attention to whether or not you're trail braking? For most of us that do it, it's second nature for long enough to not realize it's happening. LOL it's only when you realize you're doing it, that you hold longer and stand the bike up mid corner ha haa

myself I wouldn't worry about it... 'run whatcha brung' ... pipe is shorter, by a long shot, and the opening will still be smaller than what was originally. I could be wrong, dead wrong, but it's probably pretty equal to what you have now. post what you do/what they say/the changes yada yada

not ALWAYS true, but I can see why you say this. I've had some pieces that, when using 'donors' they would be even more-so brittle. I'd also like to remind anyone that if attacking this type of endeavor, that 'welding' implies that burning will be a part of the process, smell, noxious gases, and heat will be major factors before during and after you work on pieces. please wear safety goggles, masks and have cold water on standby *you just never know* Oh I found yet another nice tid-bit... I heard it years ago but never used the stuff. PLASTEX *no I'm not a salesman* is suppose to be a great addition to anyone's shop that does such repairs.

I'm not sure, possibly just newer? these have to be ABS originals. There were panels that actually stated they were ABS material on the VFR's. on SOME panels it was written as such. You could check with the person you purchased them from ;) or check coding from the internet IF POSSIBLE? There may be a key that could give more in depth description of what it is you actually have. *I'll keep hunting* I remember the tabs on the CBR600 F1-F3 they had these stupid little tabs on the tail section fairings for the pieces to rest on, looked like a pencil lead(just a hair thicker) they would always break if bumped. (yet another engineering masterpiece) the tail would fwap in the wind if this one little piece was broken. Pain in the arse.

I've looked all over the service manual to no avail. It MUST be seussian.

what is it?

that black air duct IS in fact ABS lol as per the grey VS black? details... I dunno what'a you sayin'...

! You'll have to get in touch with a paint shop for the best help ! Be their friend :-) You can typically get help identifying materials, or they can send you to an expert. From my experience - as I'm no expert, the following is what I've found. --- ABSOLUTELY NO PAINT SHOULD BE LEFT IN THE REPAIR AREA --- Abs rods-melting point bubbles-takes more time to melt-has higher melting point-takes longer *if heated electrically* a. Abs chemical bond takes very little time. Just make sure yourt pieces in question are in fact where you want them when finished. Abs Pieces- ALL body panels. Chemical bonding agents to use for best results-pvc primer-softens abs & cleans it, abs glue-adheres quickly to pieces that are freshly "primed". < sets FAST, PLIABLE, CAN BE SANDED (after cure time) use fingerprint method, works great on irregular pieces and small hole filling. Fills abs cracks in nicely. . . steps- sand area bigger than spot working on, wipe clean, use primer to clean area front and back of piece. Apply thin layer of abs glue. Let stand for 10-15 minutes. *fingerprint< if none ready to lightly sand. For thicker fill, let sit couple hours then re-apply. Polypropylene rods-creamy texture shiny-*is sticky at times*-lower melting point-takEs less time--!DOES NOT ADHERE TO ABS OR FIBERGLASS AT ALL! Pieces-headlight mounting bracket, rear tire fender, front fender, chainguard, SLOW hand sanding recommended... it gets hot fast during sanding. Fiberglass is a good component,but, it's HEAVY unless sanded to thickness... using aluminum webbing whilst using is key in big/structural areas. You'll have to get in touch with a paint shop. a. Fibral makes life easy. Hardener, added to creamed resin and glass mixture, works AMAZINGLY FAST can be sanded within minutes as it hardens quickly. Can be pushed into imperfections, and sanded smooth. The best abs for making/shaping/fitting missing pieces of abs? I've found that home depot/lowes, carries an ABS drain pipe with a black layer inner, white center, black layer outer. It can be cut, heated to flex point, flattened, and cut to shape/ size needed. I've also cut 1" strips for easier use this way. *You can get sheets of abs, but i prefer this method* it's taken quite a few trial and error sessions to get the nerve to posting ;-) Hopefully this will get you going. Time, time learning how to do the process, and becoming familiar with the materials are the only things standing in your way. Good luck and if you have any questions, frustrations, comments, problems... come back ha haa Major note/disclaimer, well ventilated area IS A MUST... a small fan set on low behind you while melting the plastics, would be ideal.

*Dutchy* the 3rd gen don't have the 'bolt' to *shim stack* like you're refering. That came on the newer models(can't remember which) i do agree on getting in touch with Jamie. He's helped me a ton... +1 Personally, i dropped my triples down so the top caps are flush with the top of my bars. No tank slap, dips in nicely, no hands riding at 35-155<not recommended :-) love it ;-)

Looking fir an update... you still sleeping? ;-)

Please find me a project like this locally ;-) woohoo kudos great work.

The 94 front scoop fits ;) If you could find a bigger piece.. we could fix that :)

Top yoke and tail section belong to a kawasaki, or suzuki. I've built a couple that were sleepers :) as per everything else, it's vfr 90-93 frame, rear wheel, forks, front wheel, motor, rotors. Look at pictures of a stocker katana 600, 750, and/or an ex500. The top triple is almost the same as what's in the pic. You'll need brakes for the front it looks like but it seems pretty straight forward. Time consuming but easy fix. Cool find you could bring itfrom th3 depths of yada yada ;)keep us posted if you decide to keep it.

Screw is on the inside of fairing above tail light and hard to see. Not visible from the outside. your point being??? my point.. who cares where it is.????. go get the right thing.. then lock the sucker in place with silicone on the threads I lol you've always made me lol kudos

Running the 3's and (not being a michy guy) I'm impressed. Great wet and dry handling. Almost exact feel betwixt the two weather types. Wearing well too. Tire pressure 36 front 38 rear. For the price, I'm already looking to get another set... or two ;)

Lol I dunnowattasae

Did you check/replace your plugs by any chance? I must have been tired when I posted earlier, but thats the 1st place I would start. Run cr8 or cr9 ngk. 9 for racing around, 8 for distance without mobbing around or racing.

Vfr shop manual states: 1990-93 @31.5" seat height. Section 1-4 under General Information :)

you so smot