DownAndOutNYC

Abit off topic, but still confined to the NE. The NJ Supreme Court recently voted that Police can search a vehicle without a warrant, so long as they have probable cause. And the one who decides if they have probably cause is the officer themselves. My question on this matter; will this change any of your (2 or 4 wheeled) riding/eating/site-seeing destinations/routes in New Jersey going here on forward?

You joke with that, but there are HID setups worn on your helmet. Granted, they are meant for off roaders who love to ride trails at night, but they provide plenty of light in the direction you look. More complicated setup (but without the headgear) would be auxiliary lights just for lighting turns, controlled by a tilt sensor.

Drag the rear brake when performing slow maneuvers and just keep the clutch+throttle constant instead of working the throttle+clutch. I to... was.... 150... ish.... many moons ago, though a couple inches taller.

She had a Harley once and finally now has a REAL bike! (That might be starting something there.... ) Btw, welcome to VFRD.... ....and getting a real bike.

http://www.excheap.com/product_info.php?products_id=5756 I am not recommending this particular bag for your situation. It's just to give you some ideas of some possibilities. You could get something similar and make your own method of mounting the device to something like a RAM mount along with the bag. This would keep your device rain proof, so long as you seal it properly after modifying it, and still with a usable touch screen. You could also go the super cheap route and just throw a gallon zip lock bag over it.

If you go in order of sensitivity to our eyes, green should be more readily seen red, which is more readily seen then blue. However, not really knowing the specs of the LEDs being used, or how they are being driven, it's pretty much a dice roll on which would be readable in direct sunlight. I agree with zoomzoom though about sun glare. Your best bet is to try and install it somewhere/somehow that it won't have direct sunlight or reflect the sunlight to your eyes. Maybe even make a hood for it to help block the sun.

So after reading this thread, what I've come to understand so far is: 1. Series type are the best, though not 100% without worry (more like 99%). 2. Shunt type, even if it's after market and "better" then OEM, will still perform no better then OEM, and possibly have the same life span overall with the entire charging system. 3. Best to beef up any and all wiring (overkill is a good thing here) and not have to worry about that aspect of the charging system. Anything I miss? Btw, which model of the Compufire series reg/rec was used on the VFR?

Been wanting to upgrade to one of these but I can't really find any info on how much capacity one of thoese Mosfet R/R's have, other then the normal 30A fuse on the output.

Whatever happened to the great art of Jousting? Sure you'd be a lightning rod riding around with one of those poles strapped to your bike, but at least you could challenge one of them horned furry dragons to a duel and possibly end up with a great meal if you win.

To Dutchy and AnikMankar: Would be nice to include what brand and model lights those are, as others might be interested in getting a pair.

If what has been suggested so far doesn't pique your interest, take a look here as well: http://www.saeng.com/category.php?category=59 I had the mirror stem mount that I used with my Valentine1. I never liked the idea of placing the V1 directly behind the windscreen as I would be partially blocking the rear sensor, so I mounted it on the mirror stem using one of the Saengs mount. Although the radar sits out in the open, I didn't have any problems with it and a simple plastic sandwich bag was enough to provide protection from rain. HOWEVER, after a couple of years, the glue which held the platform to the stem, gave out in the middle of a ride. Luckily it came with a safety wire that kept it from falling to the road, and wasn't a difficult fix.

TomTom has a Android app. Though not feature rich, its navigation capabilities are top notch. The voice for TTS is the best I've heard so far, much better then my old Nuvi 750. Routing is great too and it works without data. I do have to say though, that I've found myself using Waze (another navigation app) much more often. It uses user created/edited maps, so its the most up to date maps you can get anywhere. Not only that, but like Google, it has free traffic, but the traffic is also closer to real-time because it uses the information of other Waze users on the road to gather traffic data. Routing, although sometimes slow to calculate and re-calculate if you go off track, is also good (though some addresses do need to be fixed). Although it's been around for a while, it's still in its infancy. Previously, it only routed between home and work, but has recently added on the ability to route to other locations. With the traffic data it gathers and accurate maps, it's estimation of arrival at a location are near spot on. It does use your phone data though it is light on that, so I keep the TomTom app as a backup. But so far though, I haven't had to use TomTom at all ever since I discovered Waze. Give it a try, even if it in a 4-wheel just going back and fourth to work. The more people who use it, the better it can get.

That's what I hear too. But if it was the right tool for the job in the first place, why is it breaking while trying to use it for what it was made for?

Because sometimes the "right" tool for the job is nothing more then a over priced, alluring tool for the job. Yes, there are some tools that you just cannot substitute with anything else, but this isn't one of them. Especially considering one of the biggest gripes I always hear concerning master link riveter tools, is just how easily they break.

This^ Use this for the low beam housing > http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=237 Then re-wiring the light switch to control the upper "high beam" lights seperately OR have them come on together with new HID hi-beams you will now have in the low beam housing (and not cut off the low beams lights as Honda has it wired). The lower lights were originally a low/hi-beam light H4, and the upper lights were originally supposed to be driving lights at least as I understood it, that's how it was wired overseas but not in the US. And with the lower power requirements of HIDs, you'll have no worries running both the HIDs and your now upper driving lights at the same time.