1 pointI feel the rear end a lot too. I've adjusted the suspension a thousand times and it works for a bit but I think several members can attest to my endless questions about it. I swapped the rear shock out off my 5th gen (50,000 miles) for one with only 12,000 km on it and seemed to notice the difference. I know the shock is doing most of the work it's supposed to as I often mount a video cam and with the rearward view you can see just how much work it is performing... But I always seem to find myself saying that I really feel the sharp bumps. The VFR stock shock isn't the latest and greatest in technology. As you will well know, there are aftermarket shocks with suspension DAMPING adjustments classified as "fast" and "slow" (sportier bikes tend to have them stock). The VFR just has the one damping adjustment so it's "generalized" so to speak. The words "fast" and "slow" are not referring to the speed you are travelling (although this will influence things) but rather to how rapidly (or otherwise) the shock is obliged to perform its compression and extension strokes. (Some shocks will even have compression damping adjustment.) I always find that after adjusting my rear shock I'm happy for a bit... but I always get to the point where I feel it isn't enough. Even on my '03 6th gen. I too am 6'4" and weigh from 85 - 90 kg max. Thing is I have 4 slipped or slipping discs, one of which has been operated on twice. So obviously I'm going to feel the bumps more... Get out your tool kit and try turning your preload up one notch. I'll try and explain it with words for now... If you've got ABS you've got it easy, as you've a black adjuster wheel on the RHS in front of the passenger footpeg. Crank it up 3 or 4 clicks (clockwise). OK we are assuming it's in the stock position here, and perhaps it isn't... so unwind it all the way (anti-clockwise) and then crank it up 7 clicks. This is stock. So go up 3 or 4 more clicks. If you don't have ABS, you'll need the adjuster C-shaped wrench. Don't know if it came with your bike's toolkit under the seat. There is another one similar to this but it's for tensioning the chain. You can tell them apart by the number of teeth. The chain one has two teeth and is longer in the C-shaped part. OK this comes with an extender which is valid for both C-wrenches. Join them together and put your bike on the centre-stand. Go to the LHS and crouch down to look below the seat. (If not, you can order them at your Honda parts shop or over the net.) At the top of the shock you'll see the adjuster Turn it with the wrench up one position. Stock should, in theory be on the second notch, so you're looking for the third notch. Careful to get the wrench on right as it tends to slip easily and you'll bust a knuckle. It requires a bit of force but you'll notice once it's gone up a notch, it's real obvious. Now in theory with more preload, you should up your damper setting to offset the extra rebound. No I'm not referring to the good old jackaroo's campfire-baked bread... :beer: I usually have my preload up one notch (= 3 or 4 clicks for you ABS types) and the damping setting one quarter of a turn less, out from full hard. The rebound damping adjuster is at the very bottom of the shockie... You'll need a long flathead screwdriver, medium size head, but nice and long. You've got to get by the chain which is more or less smack bang in the way, but you'll work it out. OK, whenever you adjust this baby, according to the manual you first have to turn it to full hard... all the way clockwise, and then come back anticlockwise from there. I'll let the experts explain why, 'cause I've no idea... Stock position is one and a quarter turns back from full hard. This little screw can turn exactly two full turns (720º) and comes to rest in line with the letter H (both at full hard and full soft), so if you go 3/4 of a turn more anticlockwise you should hit full soft. Try it, it can't hurt. OK, wind it up to full hard and then back it off just one complete turn (360º). Now you've a quarter turn less than stock, which means it will damp the extra rebound a little more. You may find you prefer it in stock position even once you've added one notch more to the preload. Here's the extract from the manual: What bugs me is the Honda manual is full of mistakes and ambiguities... like regarding the stock preload setting for ABS models for example... in the maintenance section it says 7 clicks from full hard: While in the suspension-specific chapter it says 7 clicks from the lower (I assume softer) position: This really bugs me, but basing myself on the non-ABS models I would say it has to be from full soft!! (The farkling chapter on brake fluid bleeding is even worse). Anyway dude, hope this helps. Experiment a bit in the meantime while you hunt down someone willing to help you out!!! I've just seen that our resident MAESTRO DE SUSPENSIONES has given you the same run-down while I was writing this up... :unsure: :unsure: Whatever he says goes... :thumbsup: :thumbsup: I also won't go into the fork preload settings, but here's the extract from the manual to guide you (it has no damping adjustment so if you do crank up the preload a bit, it can tend to rebound more... maybe try half a turn on each fork (180º) use a bronze coin (if you still have them in Oz) as the adjuster is made of a fairly soft metal and does score and scratch easily.