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Separating #1 Carb Only from 94 VFR 750


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HI Guys,

 

My 94 VFR 750 developed a fuel leak at the spot where the fuel line goes into the left-rear carb (carb # 1). The fix requires separating the carbs from the bank and replacing the o-ring on the brown hard plastic fuel line. Naturally the order of disassembly was 4, 3, 2, 1, meaning I was supposed to take every carb off the to get to my problem. Marsman 99 told me he thought I could remove only carb #1, so I decided to give that a try. Turns out it was actually pretty simple, so I put together a little HowTo. Enjoy!

 

If you know you're going to be separating the carbs, remove the plenum (the aluminum plate on top of the carb bank) while the carbs are still on the bike. That gives you a solid bas and makes it easy to remove all the phillips head screws. It also allows you to start the bike and observe the carbs in action. That's how I found the fuel leak on my bike. It was impossible to see unless the plenum was off. With the plenum removed, loosen the clamps, remove the throttle cables, remove the choke cable, and remove the carbs as a unit.

 

What follows is a step-by-step procedure to remove the #1 carb from the bank, complete with pictures. Installation is the reverse (LOL!).

 

 1. Remove throttle cable housing. Note: This may not be necessary, but it makes it a lot easier to get to the nut underneath.

 

throttle%20cable%20%20holder%20%20%281%2

 

 

 

 

2. Choke Rod fastener and grommets. Note that the choke rod connects the left and right rear carbs.  Unscrew the fastener on the left rear carb ONLY. There is no need to fully remove the choke rod. You can pull it out of the way with one side attached. There are two hard plastic grommets. The big one goes on the bottom. The little one goes under the fastener. The rod slides on plastic grommets on both sides.

 

Choke%20Linkage-M.jpg

 

 

 

 

3. Rear to front linkage. Disconnect from the FRONT. It is more accessible. The order is cotter key – metal washer – plastic washer rod (with spacer) – plastic washer.  The rod slides on plastic to plastic.

 

Rear%20to%20Front%20linkage-M.jpg

 

 

 

4. Bottom (small) synchro spring. Undo the synchronizing screw until all the tension is off. Count the turns. It took me five turns. Remove the small spring between the two plates under the synchro screw. It is held in place by a nipple (Ha! I said nipple!) on one side. The synchronizing screw will be loose at that point. Pro tip. Tighten it back to its original position. Then it won’t move or fall out and get lost. I also inscribed a line with a sharpie around the butterfly on the other (right-rear) carb. If this whole thing goes to shit I can use that mark to get the butterfly close. I hope.

 

Tiny%20Spring-M.jpg

 

 

 

5. Remove carb retaining nuts. 2 10 mm nuts. Reassembly note. They were not loose, but not particularly tight. I used blue locktite when I put them back together.

 

Carb%20Retainng%20Nuts-M.jpg

 

 

 

6. At this point you will be able to pull the carb about a quarter-inch apart. The linkage will hit the interior support and won’t let you go any further. After about five minutes will you figure out that you need to pull the long bolts out of the opposite side. That will give you the ability to lift the carb and pull it out.

 

Separated%20Carb-M.jpg

 

 

With all that done it's a simple matter of replacing the o-ring on the brown hard plastic line. You can also pull the line out of the other carb and replace eth o-ring there too. In fact there is a school of thought that says I'm crazy to just replace those two O-rings and not separate the other two carbs and replace those O-rings too. Maybe so, but it looks to me like separating the front carbs is a little more complex, so I'm just going to keep my fingers crossed. BVtw, those O-rings are just plain ol' #11 O-rings, available pretty much anywhere.

 

Installation is indeed the reverse. The only finicky part is getting the tiny spring back between the plates. I didn't figure out any brilliant technique, I just played with it until it went into place.

 

If you're done with this part of the procedure and you're having trouble getting the carbs back onto the head, here's my little trick:

 

I hope this was helpful I'll be hanging around, so let me know if you have any questions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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