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Battery Drained During Normal Operation - R/r?


number9

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After you get your Vfrness on, re-do your grounds

post-2268-0-05025800-1340831501.jpg

solder your orange ground block and re-insulate

post-2268-0-15234200-1340831366.jpg

and finally the grounds from the egu in the tail of the bike.

post-2268-0-68279800-1340831025.jpg

Never worry about the usual VFR gremlins again other than your original stator, RR and battery

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php/topic/71640-fi-light/

I am not the first on to do this and I won't be the last. Other links in the post. Thanks to all that helped me.

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Was warmer and humid today:

  • Ignition off 12.39 VDC
  • Ignition on 11.81 VDC with headlights on
  • Cold idle 1750rpm 14.23-14.26 VDC
  • 143deg idle 1100rpm 12.93-13.21 VDC
  • 163deg 2400rpm 14.29-14.32V VDC
  • 170deg idle 1450rpm 13.90-14.32 VDC
  • 173deg 5000rpm 12.5VDC and dropping
I would try and take each reading for about 5 seconds at a time, and the voltage would fluctuate (usually in tenths of a volt or so) but no lower or higher than what's listed.
Here are the AC voltages off the generator but before the regulator:
  • 172 deg idle 1500rpm 11.52-11.75 VAC
  • 176 deg idle 11.98-12.3 VAC
I did these with the R/R plugged in, but took these voltages from the generator output plug. This makes it hard to stick the DMM in, so I could only check one phase. I'll have to unplug it to test the other phases.
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So the VFRness contains a lead that takes +12V from the battery to power the relay in the VFRness (I think). With that lead on top of the battery terminal, the bolt that holds the VFRness lead & the OEM positive battery lead to the battery terminal isn't long enough -- so I was getting an intermittent connection to the battery.

Fixed that and all is well...

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