Member Contributer RDMcD Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Don't know if anyone remembers a few posts from years ago about using vf1000f bars from a 1984-85 interceptor. I gave up on waiting for a used set of heli's and decided to try these. My local wrecker had a set for $80, plus $10 for a can of spray paint. I've got them installed and they feel good, supposed to be the same as heli bars. The throttle cable is just long enough and is a little bit tight at full right turn. I see people reroute the cables but I'm not sure of any shorter route . Anyone have suggestions ? If I get longer cables do I want them from an st1100 or st1300? Here are pictures if anyone is interested. An easy and economical solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Look good... the ST1100 cables were not an ideal choice for my Seigler LSL bar conversion on my 5th gen. Too tight with no adjustment, I'll have to remove and rotate the throttle housing to re-drill the alignment hole to keep them from hitting the inside fairing at full lock... even with re-routing the cables to give more room. Maybe ST1300 would have worked better since that bike is also fuel injected... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
number9 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Look good... the ST1100 cables were not an ideal choice for my Seigler LSL bar conversion on my 5th gen. Too tight with no adjustment, I'll have to remove and rotate the throttle housing to re-drill the alignment hole to keep them from hitting the inside fairing at full lock... even with re-routing the cables to give more room. Maybe ST1300 would have worked better since that bike is also fuel injected... Rush, I'm looking at doing the LSL kit on my 5th gen. Why did you get ST1100 cables -- do you think the stock cables are too short for the LSL kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted May 8, 2015 Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 Look good... the ST1100 cables were not an ideal choice for my Seigler LSL bar conversion on my 5th gen. Too tight with no adjustment, I'll have to remove and rotate the throttle housing to re-drill the alignment hole to keep them from hitting the inside fairing at full lock... even with re-routing the cables to give more room. Maybe ST1300 would have worked better since that bike is also fuel injected... Rush, I'm looking at doing the LSL kit on my 5th gen. Why did you get ST1100 cables -- do you think the stock cables are too short for the LSL kit? The ST1100 cables were longer than the stock cables... I'm traveling and I don't have my notes but i think they were about 35mm longer, which is enough to get them to work but the amount of free cable extending out the end of the sleeve was not enough to install on the throttle body cable cam so it ended up being a bit messy. I think the ST1300 cables may be a better fit onto the throttle body but I can't confirm that. IIRC there was a way to route the stock throttle cables through that was diagrammed and included with the instructions but I didn't like the way I thought it would rub... my makeshift solution based on a thread I had read didn't prove much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RDMcD Posted May 8, 2015 Author Member Contributer Share Posted May 8, 2015 So can anyone confirm the length of the St 1300 cables compared to 5th gens? (or suggest something else that works ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Don't know if anyone remembers a few posts from years ago about using vf1000f bars from a 1984-85 interceptor. I gave up on waiting for a used set of heli's and decided to try these. My local wrecker had a set for $80, plus $10 for a can of spray paint. I've got them installed and they feel good, supposed to be the same as heli bars. The throttle cable is just long enough and is a little bit tight at full right turn... An easy and economical solution Looking into raising the bars and came across your little gem. Seems like the perfect solution to me, with surprisingly little attention being paid to it. Without much hope I checked eBay (UK) but lo and behold, a pair of VF1000F bars - which I now have here. 3 questions about their fitment:- Do the position tabs/stubs fit into the VFR top yoke with the bars in the right position, or did you have to modify them at all? Are the holes to locate the controls/switches in the right place or did you have to drill new ones? Did you remove the bars ends and fit the VFR parts instead? None of these are a problem, just hoping to get an idea of what I'll need to do, so hope you can help with answers to the above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RDMcD Posted February 18, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2016 Ken. I don’t recall the 1000 bars having tabs, if they did I cut them off. Their only purpose is to help align the bars. Once the bolts are tighten they really serve no purpose. I do remember drilling new locate holes for the controls. The bar ends aren't interchangeable so I'm using the 1000 ones with no noticeable vibrations. Also the stock throttle cables have settled in nicely and the tightness at full right turn has gone away. My aftermarket windscreen did need a little trim with the dremel too. I wish I would have done it years ago instead of waiting for used heli's. Good luck and enjoy :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Your pictures show large diameter bar ends, as on the VFR. My VF1000 bars have 7/8" diameter bar ends, just bar extensions really. They seem quite solid. Maybe your bars were from a slightly different VF1000. Overall shape looks the same, but Honda my have done some things slightly differently with the bar ends. As I said, it's not a problem and I'll make my own bar ends if needed. I think it's a great solution to this problem of low bars. Why doesn't everyone do it instead of resorting to HeliBars etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RDMcD Posted February 18, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2016 I just remembered one more thing... You may need to cut back the tabs and rotate the banjo bolts an the master cylinders. The ones in the pics are vf1000's , 7/8" diameter :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Sorry, I'm being unobservant. The bars ends you show are of course 7/8" as per the VF1000F and NOT the fat ones as I originally thought. Don't know why I mistook that, the pictures are very clear. Mea culpa. Front brake line will be the most important issue as I don't want to futz with the brakes at this stage. The bike will eventually be transmogrified into a naked roadster and all new brakes etc, but I just need it to work as standard for this summer so a friend can use it, although the higher bars will be useful in this regard. Did you notice any change in vibration through the bars when you changed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RDMcD Posted February 18, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 18, 2016 None! I did a 3000km trip immediately after installing them and didn't notice a thing. V4 don't need the vibration dampers. With the new bars and the addition of a custom seat I did several 8 and 10 hour days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Good info, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 I notice you fitted the bars with the clamp bolts in from the rear which is I think the way they were on the VF1000F. They actually look symmetrical to me and could be fitted either way, but did you fit them that way for any specific reason or just because that's the way they were on the VF1000? Did you have an issue with the front brake master cylinder hitting the bar and limiting how far it could be rotated forward? When rotated as far as I can, the lever is still too high. Did you modify either the master cylinder or bar to obtain the correct position? Not hard to do, but wondered if this was not required for you, why is it a problem for me. I've modified both master cylinders to allow rotation of the hydraulic lines so that's not a problem. It is simply the body of the master cylinder hitting the riser part of the RH bar at the front and preventing any further rotation. Was this an issue for you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Rush2112 Posted March 1, 2016 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2016 Ken. I don’t recall the 1000 bars having tabs, if they did I cut them off. Their only purpose is to help align the bars. Once the bolts are tighten they really serve no purpose. I do remember drilling new locate holes for the controls. The bar ends aren't interchangeable so I'm using the 1000 ones with no noticeable vibrations. Also the stock throttle cables have settled in nicely and the tightness at full right turn has gone away. My aftermarket windscreen did need a little trim with the dremel too. I wish I would have done it years ago instead of waiting for used heli's. Good luck and enjoy :) The tabs do more than align... they have the safety feature of allowing you to continue steering if the bolt comes lose and they keep the bars from bending into the tank on tip overs or low speed lay downs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 The tabs do more than align... they have the safety feature of allowing you to continue steering if the bolt comes lose and they keep the bars from bending into the tank on tip overs or low speed lay downs. Yes that would be true, but it is now nearly 40 years since I first used this type of bar on a motorcycle and in all that time, I have never had a clamp bolt become even remotely less than fully tight as it was when installed. Nor have I ever heard of this occurring. It is also the fact that normal bars are clamped in the middle by bolts that if they should come loose, would allow the bars to rotate with similar potentially dire consequences. Not to mention the many other nuts and bolts on and in a motorcycle that are required to stay tight and do so without recourse to any safety tabs in case they don't. 'Cos they do. The manufacturers just need to cover their arses, but in use, those tabs are irrelevant, apart from a very handy way to align the bars. In fact in this instance the bar position is very nearly Ok with the tabs engaged in the top yoke, but not quite right for me. Fortunately, on the VF1000F bars, the tabs are removable and can be simply pulled out, unlike other bars which all seem to have cast tabs as part of the clamp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 Also the stock throttle cables have settled in nicely and the tightness at full right turn has gone away. Did you use the stock throttle cables? With the standard routing? I cannot see how they could be anywhere near long enough unless they were changed or at least routed differently. It seems they would be way too short. I'm just wondering if I'm missing something here. What did you do to get them to fit? This is just a stop gap for use this summer, so I don't want to be making up new cables at this stage. I'm just trying to establish if and how to best utilise the original cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RDMcD Posted March 13, 2016 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 13, 2016 Yes the stock cables will work with a little rerouting around the headstock. it's been a year and my memory is short but I think I may have shortened the adjusters at the throttle body end to gain some length ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BiKenG Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 When you say "re-routing around the headstock", do you mean passing the cables to the RHS instead of down the LHS as they are originally? That's the only way I can think of to gain sufficient length so good to know if that's what you did and it worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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