Caliper Pin Rubber Boot

[CHUCK2]

Is there a way to install the Caliper Pin Rubber Boot (#16 in the link) without completely removing the caliper ?

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/VFR800FI+A/FRONT+BRAKE+CALIPER/parts.html

[Terry]

I don't think you can do that, I replaced my boots earlier this year and there is one on the left calliper that you can't get out unless you unbolt one of the brake hoses which I did not want to do. But you can swing the calliper off the carrier to clear the other pin on the carrier and that will let you pull the boot off. You'll need silicone grease for the pins.

The right calliper is dead easy to work on.

[CHUCK2]

Thanks, Terry.

There is what I would consider to be an upper & lower. This would be the lower. Since I don't quite understand how the caliper comes off, I'm tempted to gently push it in with a screw driver. But I know that will tear it up. But I think that would be better than nothing being in there.

Do you happen to know why Honda says to use new bolts for where the bracket connects to the fork? And is it likely to cause a problem if the original bolts are reused?

[Terry]

They probably say that on the off-chance that a re-used bolt breaks and they get sued!

You are screwing a hardened steel bolt into an (much softer) alloy leg, and without much torque (31 Nm), so it is hard to imagine re-using a bolt could ever be a problem. I have never ever replaced a calliper mounting bolt. I have also been know to eat yoghurt after its use-by date, so maybe I just like to live life on the edge!

As I said the right calliper is the easier one to start on, just pull the two 12mm bolts and slide the calliper backwards off the disc. The pads like to grab the disc so you might need to wiggle the calliper. The shop manual sensibly suggests putting protective tape on the wheel rim so as the calliper finally comes free it doesn't chip the paint on the rim. After that you can just slide the calliper off the mounting plate to reveal the sliding pins, there's nothing else holding them together. You can then fight with getting the rubber boot out of its hole, the one in the calliper (#16) is a tight fit. I have read that you should only use a high temp silicone grease in the sliding mechanism, other greases don't enjoy the high temps that the callipers generate.

The left calliper is similar but in my experience the pivoting mechanism for the secondary master cylinder puts up a bit more of a fight but otherwise the procedure is identical to the right; you need a 6mm allen key to remove the bolts. But because of the SMC and extra hoses, you can't pull the mounting plate completely away from the calliper unless you remove one of the hoses, which means you only can access the lower of the two boots. But when I did this I was able to inject a bit of grease under the upper boot that I could not fully disassemble.

Reassembly, as they say, is the reverse of disassembly. Push the callipers back onto the sliding pins on the mounting plates, then slide them back over the discs and fit the mounting bolts, following the recommended torque settings. You might need to push the brake pads apart to make the gap bigger to get them more easily over the disc, I just use a big flat blade screwdriver between the pads and some gentle persuasion avoiding breaking up the face of the pad.. Just remember that as you spread the pads on one side, fluid pressure will attempt to push the pads together on the other side, no problem if the other side is still mounted on the disc.

If you haven't already, get yourself a torque wrench, will give you a huge boost in confidence that bolts are tight enough, and avoid the pain of a stripped thread.

Making sure the sliding pins are truly slid-ey is very important on these brakes as the calliper needs to move sideways as the pads wear. If the calliper can't move you'll end up with pad drag and uneven wear.

[CHUCK2]

Thanks again, Terry.

It is the left side I'm working on. The one bolt I did remove looked like it had been originally installed with red thread locker. Only had blue so I reused bolt with that on it. No torque wrench either. The ones I've seen allow for only sockets to be attached. I feel I used as much force to tighten it as I used to loosen it.

Torn the heck out of the inner end of the boot as expected. I ended up using scissors to cut the very end of it off. Then was able to slide it on. But there's nothing holding it in there other than it's snug fit. So may not stay in there for long. I didn't feel like going any further with it due to the disgusting weather here. And I need it together so that I can race it tomorrow. Was able to squeeze so lube in there. Not sure off hand if it's high temp or not. But I'll be back in there soon once I have a new boot & the weather is better.

Thanks again.