Guest Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I'll be doing a valve clearance check and will confirm the cams and rockers at the same time, better add VC gaskets to the parts order. Is there a hot cam replacement if I need new ones? Steering head has a rough spot at center, hopefully just needs grease. Going to play Friday afternoon hooky and do some wrenching, maybe get those carbs out. I'll take some pics. truckdude, you may be able to save yourself a bit without new valve cover gaskets if your old ones aren't torn. Cleaning up and sanding the head surface clean on the edges, and super thin bead of gasket RTV sealant in the groove on the cover, and most importantly a thin washer/shim over the grommet (rubber and metal cap) will give the valve cover bolt a bit more compression before the step bolt bottoms out. I tried that on my valve covers and it solved the oil leak on the back valve cover. Good advice. Carbs are out, pics later, inside to check the manual. One VC off how to get it around the frame? Looked pretty clean and well lubricated but I have not tuned the engine over yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Yesterday was pull everything out of the garage and work on it day. Way too nice to be inside. Bike area The hot rod just worked o its tan. Bike teardown started. BFH only used once. Carbs out. Tested the fuel pump, it is fried. It did nothing and the test leads got hot very fast when connected to the battery. Must be shorted out. Maybe it ran dry? Before I did the tear down, I tested for voltage at the fuel pump connection, nothing when I turned the key. I'm guessing the fuel cut off relay might be fried too, any way to test it? Exterior was clean, no fuel seepage. All of the screws came out easily, nothing stripped. Diaphrams all in good condition. Varnish on everything in the bowl area. Bad pics but everything under the VC's looks clean and oily. Still need to figure out how to get the rear cover away from the frame. No evidence of oil leaking from the VC gaskets. Gave all the parts and engine area a good cleaning. Flushed all of the coolant which was clean and green, even though it is probably 7-8 or more years old. Radiators and hoses in good shape. Back inside with some new workspace. Truck cab is going to go do the resting portion of restoration with its frame and engine. Getting pretty clean. Still more to do once the wheels are off. My buggy engine is hogging the cycle jack right now so I want to keep the bike a roller until tires arrive. I have not tired to air up the shocks yet. My bike pump doesn't fit the front shock valve stem. A couple more carb shots. The intake boots didn't seem cracked and were pliable. I will reuse them for this budget rebuild, maybe upgrade in the future if I do some carb/exhaust tuning. So the next step is to ship these carbs off to BillyC in TX for a pro cleaning and rebuild. I think I could do them myself pretty easily but I will go with the piece of mind of a pro build. I need to do a big parts order, pick out some tires and a battery and spend some time on the dune buggy to get it back on 4 wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Once you separate the carb bodies from each other, it gets interesting fast. Good call on getting someone with practice on the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I had the same challenge getting the valve cover off mine - here's the advice I got from GreyVF750F. It worked! "Yes there is a trick to it. You have to hold your tongue the right way. lol I've always have had to bend/flatten the wiring harness clips on the frame out of the way.(a must) I think then to get the right rear up and turn the cover ccw a little. then bring the left rear up a little and work/wiggle back and forth all the while pulling up and forward. Yes it's a tight fit. You'll just have to play with it." As for the fuel pump, it only energizes when the engine is running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 "Yes it's a tight fit. You'll just have to play with it."That's what she said. Thanks for the info. I hooked the fuel pump up directly to a battery, test leads got hot very fast leading me to believe the pump is shorted out internally. I tried reading voltage off of the line in while cranking the engine, nothing, which leads me to believe the relay/fuel cut off is fried too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer tomk1960 Posted June 10, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted June 10, 2014 Have you been able to get that rear valve cover off yet - I couldn't tell from the pics. It just takes some wigglin' and jigglin' and then it comes out from the top. Make a mental note of how you get it out, because it will be just as hard to get back in if you forget. Mike Nixon at www.motorcycleproject.com wrote a great booklet on how to clean the V4 carbs. It's worthwhile to get if you haven't dug in too deep yet. If you follow his step-by-step instructions along with the many great pictures, you can't go wrong. And be careful when you remove the plenum, because the plastic fuel tubes can break quite easily. Keep us posted on your progress. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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