Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 I am trying bleed brakes on my 6th gen today and installing speed bleeders. I am not able to find Right-side (Rear) Proportional Control valve (Opposite battery side). Any ideas or am I just going blind? This is my first time doing this on 6th gen and I purchased the bike used. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 It's on the left side just in front of the battery. At least on my '09 it is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 I cant find the opp battery side. Apperently there are 2 if im not mistaken. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 I cant find the opp battery side. Apperently there are 2 if im not mistaken. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk I think the info is incorrect, I could not find a second bleeder on my 6 Gen either. I replaced my lines last year and went through this same drill, never found a second bleed point. There is the PCV as you have photographed it, but no bleeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 Thanks man....this confirms that Im not blind. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 How did you bleed the battery side pcv with speed bleeders? Did you just open the speed bleed screw and pumped the pedal or did it the manual way? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 Yes, with speed bleeder installed but kind of did it old fashion way as well, meaning I didn't loosen the bleeder until I held the rear brake pedal down, opened the bleeder and then triggered the front secondary master cylinder. Released the secondary master cylinder and rear brake pedal closed the speed bleeder and repeated process. Note that this order works as the speed bleeder prevents air from returning through the bleeder. However, if you use a traditional bleeder, you will need to close the bleeder first then release secondary MC and rear brake pedal, this is pretty close to impossible without a helper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer RollinAgain Posted March 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 The second valve opposite the battery is only found on the ABS models. Rollin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 That makes sense. I blead the PCV by just opening the speed bleeder and pumping the rear brake pedal..will test to see if its done ok. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 Apperently rear pedal is spungy. I think i got air while bleeding PCV. When i hit the rear brake their is a squeky sound which comes from the secondary master cylinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 1, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 Apperently rear pedal is spungy. I think i got air while bleeding PCV. When i hit the rear brake their is a squeky sound which comes from the secondary master cylinder Did you tilt it up and bleed the air out of it first? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 1, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 1, 2014 No i didnot remove the front left caliper and moved it by hand while it was mounted. Is it required? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2014 No i didnot remove the front left caliper and moved it by hand while it was mounted. Is it required? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Don't know if it's "required" but it helps get the air out of the line/caliper. I have a 2x4 that I notched to help hold the caliper assembly while I bleed the lines. Similarly to this, the rear caliper should be rotated so that the bleeders are pointing upward. You can use one of the caliper mounting bolts to attach it to the rear brake. Put the bike in gear to keep the wheel from rotating so that caliper stays pointing up. These photos are from when I bled the 5 Gen but the principle is the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thank you. I rotated the rear caliper to make sure the bleed screws stay on top while bleeding. The only step I skipped was removing the front left caliper. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2014 Try the process I describe before, where you press and hold the rear pedal down and then squeeze the secondary caliper (in the tilted position), I found that when I did this, I pushed quite a bit of air in the line out. You can also do this without closing the speed bleeder each time, that's just how I did it the first few times, once it seemed like most of the air was out, I left the bleeder open and repeated the process. I can tell you that it may not seem like you have air in the system, once it's out you'll know. Oddly, my front brakes were still spongy after the first pass, then I did another pass and wow! a big amount of air came through and what a difference. Of course my lines were completely empty when I started as the lines were totally new and empty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 2, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2014 my lines were full but will give it a shot. Press and hold the rear pedal, tilt and manully push the secondary MC. Will give it a shot tomm as i will need additional person to help. Thanks for your input. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 2, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 2, 2014 I was able to do it solo, but the fairings need to be off and yo have to cram yourself as close to the front of the engine as possible (right hand side of the bike). Press and hold the rear pedal with left hand and reach under the bike between engine and front wheel and squeeze the secondary MC, that's where my 2x4 comes in handy. That being said, it's much easier with a helper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2014 So i did the PCV today by tilting the caliper 15 degrees. Saw a bunch of air bubble come out. I followed it with bleeding the rear caliper center bleed screw. My procedure. Pump the rear pedal 5 times - push the secondary MC and open pcv speed bleeder. Close pcv speed bleeder and ask helper to pump the rear brake pushing the secondary MC out. I didnot release the secondary MC after pressing it and let the rear break pedal push it out. Repeated this process for an approx 2 hrs. Break pedal feels much better but not as firm as before. The biggest issue is when I press the break lever the secondary mc squeeks. Any suggestions? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2014 On my 5 Gen, the front right side has a delay valve and I can hear that make noise when stepping on the rear peddle but no noise on my 6 Gen. Are you sure it's the SMC? The front left center piston is what gets activated by the rear brake. It might be the piston is what's sqeeking. How clean are the calipers and what do the pistons look like? There's also a little metal clip that holds the pads in place and I've seen that get a little tweaked and rub the pad when it moves in and out, which will make a squeaky noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2014 Sure its the SMC piston. While holding it when my helper pressed the rear pedal i could hear it squeak while it backed out. The sound was not coming before so I know somehow the bleed process activated it. Is the SMC fried? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Duc2V4 Posted March 8, 2014 Member Contributer Share Posted March 8, 2014 Sure its the SMC piston. While holding it when my helper pressed the rear pedal i could hear it squeak while it backed out. The sound was not coming before so I know somehow the bleed process activated it. Is the SMC fried? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk If it's triggering the rear brake I would not think it's fried, but may need to be cleaned and/or rebuilt. I took the one off the 5 Gen and tore it apart, cleaned it and put it back together. I probably should have replaced the seals and what not but everything still seemed to be in decent shape. My plan was to rebuild it after I got my SS lines but I got lazy and forgot to do it. Still works fine but the "delay" valve on the right front does make some noise (not found on a 6 Gen BTW) so I may look into both of these soon. Pop the dust cover off if you can and look at the shaft and see if it is dirty or rusty. If so, you may want to take it apart and clean rebuild it just for good measure. Of course this means another bleed process! I think it was VFRD member Havagan who's SMC froze up on his 5 Gen just from sitting too long, he ended up rebuilding it if I recall. In his situation, the brake fluid had pretty much coagulated and basically plugged the SMC up amongst other brake/clutch parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FM1 Posted March 9, 2014 Author Member Contributer Share Posted March 9, 2014 Thanks i will test it my turning the rear wheel and see if it stops when i press the SMC by hand. If it does I will leave it alone. Didnt know that bleeding vfr brakes was such a PITA. Again appreciate your input. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jotasv Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 I've just bled the brakes on my 6th gen with ABS. I don't think I saw any photos of an example here of the right hand , so here's mine. sent via Pony Express Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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