Guest VF500FInterceptor Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 So last weekend I cleaned the carbs on my bike, got it all back together and now there is a leak. It looks like it is coming from port where you drain the carb. Turns out the guy who helped me pull/clean the carbs took out the screw completely to see what it looked like in there. I would be willing to bet that the carb he did that on is the one leaking. Anyway my guess is the O ring on that screw is bad. Is this something I can pick up at a local hardware store? Anyone have any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted August 21, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2013 Are you 100% sure that's where the leak is from? Have you made sure that the drain screw was tightened all the way down? If that is where the leak is, and there is no o-ring on the screw or still in the bowl, then the only way to know is to do down to the hardware store and look. Maybe try mcmaster if that doesn't turn up anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 From what I can tell that's where it is at. I am hoping to pull out the screw and see what it looks like on the inside after work today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 While I am thinking about it, it's probably better to just replace all gaskets and O rings. Any idea where to get those for my carbs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VFRBert Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 You can order them online. This is one option: http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-vf500f-500-interceptor-1984-usa_model1110/partslist/E++1703.html#results http://www.bikebandit.com/1986-honda-interceptor-500-vf500f-carb-kits-parts-accessories-universal/n1137?m=151673&f=3 But its not cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer CBVFRbikeboy Posted August 21, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 21, 2013 There may not be an o-ring on that drain screw? None of mine have them, and it doesn't appear on any schematic I've seen. Just the screw itself listed as part of the chamber set (#4) cheers ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted August 22, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 22, 2013 I wouldn't just jump on buying all new gaskets and orings if nothing is leaking around there. Is it leaking from that screw? Was the screw tightened all the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Ya it is tightened all the way. I think I am going to pull the carb apart again and see if I have something stuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 Correct, there are no orings on the drain screws for the V4's although it's the same screw used across more models than you could count. As for the fuel leak it's likely either a breached float bowl gasket or fuel joint oring. There's no overflow standpipe in the carbs so those are the only two ways for fuel to get out---that is assuming that the floats are functioning, in which case you can get gas dribbling down into the engine. Did you have the carbs separated from each other? A minor issue to contend with is that the fuel joint orings for the 500 series carbs are different from all others, but bowl gaskets are the same. I've got them on hand because this is, well, all we do. OSC http://www.oldschoolcarbs.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GazVF500 Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 The drain screws seat on tapers. If there's a bit of dirt on the end of that drain screw, it may not be seating properly, and so could be leaking. Might be worth taking the screw out and looking at the sealing surface (cone) on the end to see if there are any gouges or marks in it that could make it leak. Easier than pulling the carbs off completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 I tried messing with the drain screw first, but with no luck. Last night I pulled the carbs out so that I can look at it today. OSC- I did have the carbs separated, could that have caused a problem? Where is the cheapest place to get replacement gaskets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Aaaah. You may have upset the balance of nature reusing old orings or bowl gaskets. Contact me at the email address on my website. I've got the bits you need. http://www.oldschoolcarbs.com OSC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 My money is on the fuel crossover tube O-rings leaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer wagzhp Posted August 25, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted August 25, 2013 +1 I had to replace a split O ring a couple of weeks ago on my wifes bike. It started out as a very slow drip that could only be smelled, very faintly, after a ride. As the smell got stronger over time,I started looking harder and eventually spotted a drip at the bottom of the right rear carb. I also suspected the drain screw, but it was fine. Then I thought it might have been the bowl gasket... Nope. Eventually the leak got bad enough to reveal the source. At first I was afraid that the rear cross over tube had cracked. But after pulling one of the carbs off of the plenum, the problem was thankfully obvious. A quick trip to the auto parts store had us back in business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 I checked the float seat and it seemed clear. Also until I can get new gaskets I used liquid gasket to see if it would even slow down at all. It didn't. So It makes me think that maybe it is the O ring that you are talking about. I am going to try to get to the hardware store tonight to test. I really appreciate everyone's input! OSC- I sent you an email. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 So is this open line an over flow? Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 Vent tubes, the FSM calls them air joint pipes. The open end should be connected by a hose to a nipple on the bottom side of the air cleaner base. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 And this is the reason I am on this site ALL THE TIME!!!! I did what you guys said and checked the fuel cross over tube and the O-Ring was thrashed. Replaced that and NO LEAK! Thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 OK leak is fixed but I have a vacuum leek somewhere. I sprayed starter fluid on the out side and it revs when I spray over the bowl with the slide in it. I am thinking gasket or the rubber around the slide itself? What do you think? Sent from my XT907 using Tapatalk 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted September 3, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2013 The float bowl and the slide are at opposite ends from each other. Are you spraying closer to the boot? Are the boots tightened down? A gap on the slides or the bowls should be visually obvious during rebuild. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Sorry I really don't know what I am talking about here I just now that when I spray the side that the slide is in it revs. I didn't see anything when I was rebuilding, however this is my first time rebuilding carbs so I could have missed something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted September 3, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2013 Where in this picture are you spraying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 Very top left of the pick. The part where the slide is in. Also in answer to your question about on the Air/Fuel Mixture side. Not running right means- Will not idle (Dies), After you rev the engine the RPM's come down way to slowly, it smells very rich and the sparks are a little fouled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer YoshiHNS Posted September 3, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted September 3, 2013 OK. First off, I think starter fluid will deteriorate the diaphragm rubber. What did your carb sync look like? Did you manage to get it nice and even? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 3, 2013 Share Posted September 3, 2013 It was the only way I knew how to test for the leak, and I didn't use very much. We got the carbs as close as we could. He is kinda hard with the bike running as bad as it is. Also the guy who was helping said he has never seen a bike show such low vacuum on the gauge. Is that because of the leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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