Guest Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 The mechanic that finally safetied it is very familiar with this bike. Owned a couple in the past apparently. Didn't hear the noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Wow, you learned that lesson cheap!! Now you can start maintaining that machine and doing the little things that make it better and better--without taking it off the road for more than a little while. I feel so bad for all the many, many folks who aren't in a position to buy a brand-new bike, but who do not understand how to NOT depend on a mechanic to bring an older machine up to road-worthiness. I got lucky, one very fine mechanic overloaded with work said he couldn't replace the brake pads on my first bike for two weeks. Looked me right in the eye and said, "You can do this. Read the manual and get in there and call me if you don't understand something." Even offered me any special tools for the job if I didn't have them. Next was a valve adjust on my own, and then there was no looking back! Sounds like you have such a fine upstanding mechanic near you, you are indeed fortunate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 checking over everything that makes the bike not crash is a good idea, to protect your a$$ with a bike of that vintage, bearings and seals are likely dry better to fix it now, if you plan on keeping it, than wait until it breaks nothing breaks at a convenient time, and it's usually more expensive when it does good luck and let us know how it goes for you I had a 1983 750 as well, chocolate cams and tensioners, the whole experience! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 First project on Cepter is a very basic one. I ordered a water resistant phone mount for my bike and it arrived today with my helmets Bluetooth. I should have looked at my handles first. Nowhere to mount it. But after looking around I decided to take off my fuse cover and take a look. With a few mods to the phone mount, I can attach it to the fuse cover no problem. It will be out of the wind, out of the way of my Ignition and gauges and I have all the clearance underneith. I haven't taken any pics yet but I will on Sunday after a trip to the hardware store. Should work out perfect for GPS on my iPhone. Thank you google maps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 25, 2013 Share Posted February 25, 2013 Got my mount on the bike today. Easy minor work I know, but at least a first task. I don't have many plans besides repainting it, but I am excited to talk about my new (to me) bike:) I bought this iphone mount from Motorcycle-superstore.com and realized there is literally nowhere to mount it as it is. So it comes in two pieces, designed to go around a pipe. I ditched the round clamp piece that screws on to the main unit and sawed off the rounded section on the main mount so it was flat. Then just lined up the holes, marked the fuse cover that I already took off and drilled. I replaced the screws that came in the package for some #10 1 1/4 machine screws and a couple washers. Screwed it in to see how it fit. Clearly I need to shorten those screws, but I didnt think to bring the mount with me to the hardware store. I'll do it later lol. Then I just went to my parking garage, put the phone on the mount and put the panel back in place.. Couple pictures with google maps showing turn by turn navigation. I think it will do. I wanted it mounted as opposed to in my pocket so I can get a reference point. "Hey its been a while since I heard a direction" *glance down* "Oh, still 6km till my exit!".... or someone calls me, a quick glance and I can decide to answer or ignore. I have my Sena SMH5 installed in my helmet so all calls and navigation are routed right in. Just have to figure the damn thing out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 So I noticed a ticking noise from the engine when at idle. Not sure exactly where. Wondering if its normal or very bad. Took a video with my iphone when I got home. Let me know what you think please :) Video.MOV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer rdguy Posted February 26, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted February 26, 2013 Don't forget that if it's an '85 itcould be a 700 tarif bike (my 1st V4!) Same bike just shorter stroke and a few less hp. Don't think Canada got the 700's. Actually, I'm certain we didn't... Glenn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Loose valve adjustment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 Don't forget that if it's an '85 itcould be a 700 tarif bike (my 1st V4!) Same bike just shorter stroke and a few less hp. Don't think Canada got the 700's. Actually, I'm certain we didn't... Glenn Its a 750 with KMH speedo? LOL Loose valve adjustment Easy to adjust myself? Do I need any special tools outside of a socket set or basic screw drivers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 1, 2013 Share Posted March 1, 2013 Quite easy. Not fast, not an hour job the first time. Give yourself most of the day, just so you have the time and mindset to do it right. Just do what the manual tells you to do. Remember that "tappy is happy," but clattery is not. You WILL hear some noise from the gear driven cams, but you SHOULD hear some valve train noise. If it's utterly silent, it's too tight, and that is far worse for the engine than too loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 So I took this picture to ask the opinion of this brain trust. I havent had a real chance to find out where this tiny oil leak is coming from, but it leaves a few drops every time I park. But I just hopped on my bike and couldnt get it to go into neutral while running. I had to let the clutch go so it would stall, then shift and start it back up. So I'm assuming its coming out of the clutch. Also without brakes engaged, in first with the clutch all the way in, the bike pulls a bit forward. Guessing its low fluid in the clutch reservoir. I'll figure out the leak eventually when I finally get a day off. But are my rookie assumptions correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 im gonna go out on a limb and say that your clutch slave cylinder is leaking and that's why your bike is creeping you can top off the master and bleed it, and it might work for a short while, but ultimately you may need a new seal in the slave, and possibly a piston, or the whole housing, depending on whether or not there is serious corrosion or scoring going on inside there. and/or your chain lube is dripping down, and/or the countershaft seal is leaking, and/or the clutch pushrod seal is leaking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 The first thing to do is determine whether the leak is oil or hydraulic clutch fluid. If it's oil, you need to determine its source. Canuck has laid out the usual suspects. Based on nothing more than limited personal experience, I bet it's from the notorious clutch pushrod seal. If you follow the manual it's easy to remove the slave cylinder and check the pushrod and seal. You might see a lot of oil on the inside of the piston and/or leaking from the seal itself. If it's oil, it has nothing to do with the clutch issues you are describing, so you would have TWO issues - a seal and the clutch. And it gets better! The Honda engineers designed the clutch pushrod seal to be replaced from the INSIDE of the case, requiring dropping the engine and spillting the case! Ha-ha, nice joke on us, Honda! But there are some "fixes" that avoid that unhappy task. The fix I used involved a dremel tool, a new seal, and Loctite. It worked great! Anyway, no big deal if it's the clutch pushrod seal. The leak is a little messy, but you can live with it until you are inspired to fix it. Just put a sheet of cardboard under the engine to catch the drips for now. As for the clutch, I have nothing to add to what Canuck said - except to note that the clutch issue may be unrelated to the leak. Again, check to see if the leaking fluid is oil or clutch fluid. Slave cylinder rebuild kits are cheap and the OEM slave cylinder parts (piston, housing, etc.) are still available. Welcome to the wacky world of VF750F/VF700F! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 Tried to refill my clutch master cylinder today. Got to a Canadian Tire to buy some Dot4 fluid, got home and grabbed my screwdriver, went to open it up and one screw is completely stripped.. DAMNIT! Looks like I'm going to find something to get it out with tomorrow. Then I'm going to have to find a replacement screw. Brafasco trip probably. Maybe I'll just take it to my mechanic for a full fluid change, let him deal with it. I have the entire weekend off so I'm going to look around the the Clymer manual and hopefully get my hands dirty a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 You will probably have to drill out the screw, then remove the shank after, but I would try an impact driver first, and carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 I am in your corner. You are a 1st Gen owner. So am I. Welcome to the Trail of Tears. Although this has nothing to do with a stripped out screw head, I have concluded as a practical matter that these VF750F/VF700F bikes should be gathered and collectively pushed off a cliff. The world would be a better place for that. BUT, the 1983 VF750F Interceptor was the motorcycle of my dreams. I love when guys on their CBRs give me the thumbs-up in traffic (Oops! Overheating again! Better keep the revs up to keep adequate oil pressure to the cams!). I love when guys around my age follow me home to get a closer look at the bike of THEIR dreams. Cool. But from an engine-design standpoint, Honda screwed this up. That's why the first VFR dropped the Interceptor name and completely redesigned the camshaft drive. Honda wanted to distance itself as far from the discredited VFs as possible. Not until 2002 did Honda feel it safe to reintroduce chain-driven cams and the Interceptor name. Those of us who cannot completely give these old bikes up understand their flaws. But at the risk of speaking on behalf of others, we own and maintain these bikes despite their flaws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Found the leak. And it was Dot 4 Brake fluid in the clutch. It got low enough that I couldn't change into first without stalling because the clutch wouldnt engage. Also one of the clutch master cylinder screws was stripped so I ended up using a Dremel to turn the stripped Philips into a slotted. Added some fluid and I could ride again.. A bit rough but worked. I got it to my favorite mechanic and his guy found the leak was in the clutch where you bleed the system. He called it the Clutch Caliper. But he last saw this bike in Thailand and usually works on scooters lol. Did a little playing with it. Added some silicon goop to it and bled out the system. Night and day the difference! He thinks I may have to replace the clutch bearing and the part he called a clutch caliper. Its the only part in this link within the area circled and labeled 10. Its the one part that doesnt have a identifying number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 it's your clutch slave cylinder. -disassembly and cleaning may reveal that it only needs a new seal. (???) -or confirm that the piston and bore are pooched, and you DO need a whole new slave cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Mechanic took it out and cleaned it up. Said It might just be the seal, Basically going to run it for a little bit and see if its still leaking... That is if the guy coming over tomorrow doesnt buy this money pit. Itching question. What is the dial on the right fork by the controls. Has 1, 2, 3 around it? I have left it at one... I'm assuming. Theres no indicating marker for what number is selected. Is this anti dive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 Yes, it is the anti-dive. 1 is least, 3 is most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Sparrow75 Posted March 12, 2013 Member Contributer Share Posted March 12, 2013 Yes, it is the anti-dive. 1 is least, 3 is most. Inkedfusionadsfas, the dial you mention is not the anti-dive setting. It selects a different sized oil hole for the damping rod in the fork internals to make damping softer or stiffer. The anti-dive control in called TRAC and is selectable with a small aluminum knob on the lower section of the left fork slider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alaskan Posted March 12, 2013 Share Posted March 12, 2013 My experience is that rotating the dial from 1 through 3 around and around gives the rider something to occupy his mind at a long stoplight . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veefer800Canuck Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Yes, it is the anti-dive. 1 is least, 3 is most. Inkedfusionadsfas, the dial you mention is not the anti-dive setting. It selects a different sized oil hole for the damping rod in the fork internals to make damping softer or stiffer. The anti-dive control in called TRAC and is selectable with a small aluminum knob on the lower section of the left fork slider. Aww, you can see that it has been 27 years since I owned that bike.......... oops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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