Resin Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I hadn't planned on making a VFR how to do posting, until I was about 15 minutes into my project. I began by rolling my bike out of my garage, removed two screws then later the cover was off, and a few minutes later I had made my initial repair work completed. I did some quick filling in the damaged areas, it was not until then had I thought of the idea of posting on repairing a plastic body part. One of my first my first photos shows my cover glued, being filled, and being fit checked. I apologies for my lack of initial planning. I also must state this is my first post on this exchange. I hope my photos were able to be apart of this posting? The cover was repaired by using these basic outline steps. Clean and fit your parts back together, and do a fit check. Once the fitting has been completed, I cut a few small strips of the black electrical tape, then I tape all broken parts together. NOTE: Cut your tape, don't tear the tape! You're not painting a house! Good news your glue will not stick your black tape. Now tack glue your broken cover back together. I tacked just one small edge with my Ca glue I bought at the local hobby shop, then I used the kicker to accelerate my glue drying time Don't glue your whole cover back together at this time. Once the cover has dried, you'll be able to examine your tack glue. If your part wasn't attached to your satisfaction, pop the glue joint apart, clean and reglue your part. Note: Use thin Ca for all hair line cracks, and use a thicker CA if required for all parts that don't fit very well. A word of caution, All accelerators cures your gluing joint faster, but your glue joints are never as good as those joints that weren't accelerated. After fit checking your gluing , remove your electrical tape, fill any cracks with baking powder, then apply another application of CA by wetting out your baking powder. Now watch the magic! In seconds your gluing is done. Repeat your fit check, and always perform a light bending test on your repaired areas. You do this to insure your part is strong enough. If you think your part may need more strength, I suggest adding small pieces of scrap plastic of similar type of material, or you can even segment a small metal rivets. then fit your cut metal rivet, and then glue everything in places as braces.. Pieces of carbon cloth can be substituted for plastic, or metal. For large repaired areas, You can use slow cure epoxy laminating resin, but I wouldn't recommend using polyester resin. Always do some form of stress test on all repaired areas, before putting your part back into usage. Note: Your added material is normally added to your unexposed side of your part! If you require your part to be painted, then you'll prepare your part for painting in the normal approved ways. NOTE: 80% of my time was spent on painting! I hope you found my posting of value? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandjjr Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 What is CA glue? Is that a brand? What does "wetting out your baking powder mean"? Sorry if these are dumb questions. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer AZTraveler Posted December 23, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted December 23, 2011 What is CA glue? Is that a brand? What does "wetting out your baking powder mean"? Sorry if these are dumb questions. Thanks CA is Cyanoacrylate, otherwise known as Crazy Glue. Wetting out would be applying the baking powder then putting drops of CA onto it to wet it out. Resin, thanks for the tips, I have just the repair for your method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resin Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 There's no such thing as dumb question Thanks for helping me out AZTraveler Check out Tower Hobbies and their CA Glues. Trust me- The method above works. I suggest trying this method on a small part first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rolandjjr Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 Thanks for the clarification. A year ago when I went off the road and went down on the left side and cracked the fairing, I used the epoxy resin with a thin strip of plastic for support on the inside. A little sanding and paint an you couldn't see a thing. It's held up great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V4 Rosso Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 I hope you found my posting of value? I sure do. I never heard of adding baking powder, I have to give that a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Resin Posted December 23, 2011 Author Share Posted December 23, 2011 Hi V4 Rosso, I've read some of your postings, and your input has helped others. I certainly would recommend try using baking powder with CA. When it goes off, it even smokes!! Trust me-- you'll love it! You'll be amazed of the wonderful results you'll get. Your part will be ready to sand is less than 1 minutes, and it's strong like tractor! Normally I have found it's best to dress your glue joint with a fine file, because your glued area has now become that tough! Your glued area hasn't any flexibility, so if your glue joint is in area where flexing is a requirement, then may want to spar it, so you can transmit some of it's loading elsewhere! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roebling3 Posted December 23, 2011 Share Posted December 23, 2011 There are many brands and sources for Cyanoacrylate glues. And there are many types: ranging from industrial grades to those approved for surgeries. Thin, water like versions cure fastest. Thicker versions cure slower. There is even a flexible version. Beware of toxic affects and less than desired reactions when used with certain materials. It seems to react/cure fastest when contacting powders and dust. i.e. sanding or sawdust, 'baking soda'. You will typically find the cured CA surface much harder than surrounding material. IIRC CA glues were invented by Eastman Chemicals div. of Eastman Kodak, perhaps in the late 60's. I think it was called Eastman 610? Search www.bsi-inc.com and Frank Tiano Enterprises. Good fortune, R~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.