Guest MIKET Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 Hi all Got Mot on bike today and now its all road legal and insured, yippee only problem is that the old girl wont idle, if i have the choke full on then its ok when i let back the throttle but as soon as i take the choke off it stalls. whilst i have been messing around i seem to have used an awful lot of fuel, maybe thats cos i've been riding with the choke out or its just where i have been tinkering around starting and stopping her. she seems to be popping alot from the exhaust and doesnt seem to run completely right, maybe missing on a cylinder. could this all be cos the carbs are blocked from the long stand?, if so could i use a fuel additive to clean them or should i take carbs off again and clean them. anyone have any suggestions or comments please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 You need to take those carbs off and give them a complete cleaning. The low speed idle jets are so narrow that even a little crap will clog them up! This is what is causing it to not idle properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vfrgo Posted May 3, 2011 Share Posted May 3, 2011 You need to take those carbs off and give them a complete cleaning. The low speed idle jets are so narrow that even a little crap will clog them up! This is what is causing it to not idle properly. +1 on that! I had a small crack in the carb casing on my previous bike, and it messed with the fuel delivery and it wouldn't idle, for the life of me! my current beuty, I jut pulled off the carbs and found that one carb boot was damaged, and there was an awefull lot of fuel mixed with dust and such on the engine block from that... this also explains my sub par performance and bad gas milage... carbs are very precise part of the bike and the smallest of imperfections can mess with the bike performance drastically! I would also suggest a carb sync once you get them all cleaned and rebuilt and back on the bike... carefull to not set youself on fire while doing this tho!! I hear its a tough task... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Do i have to split the carbs just to clean them or can i leave them on the air intake plate? I have looked at a diagram of the breakdown of the carb but it doesnt actually say where the parts are in relation to the main body. does anyone know where i can get a good description on the breakdown clean and rebuild of my carbs plz. also what tools and cleaners are best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmatt Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Keep them all together on the air intake plate. I think if you just soak the whole rack in some carb cleaner you should be good, some like 'Gunk' for this, but you'll have to get a bigger bath for the rack to sit in. Let it soak for a while and then blow each part out with an air compressor Also, make sure you keep the needles and jets from each carb separate from each other so you can reassemble them to their respective carbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer Burns Posted May 4, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 4, 2011 Do i have to split the carbs just to clean them or can i leave them on the air intake plate? I have looked at a diagram of the breakdown of the carb but it doesnt actually say where the parts are in relation to the main body. does anyone know where i can get a good description on the breakdown clean and rebuild of my carbs plz. also what tools and cleaners are best? I'll answer one question - Don't take them off the plate! and for that matter... clean them one at a time. I've always just used spray carb cleaner, and made sure all the passages are open. Most all CV (constant velocity) carbs are fairly similar design, so just google CV carb diagram for a breakdown ( I believe they are Keihin's, so that might help to narrow it down a little)... you should be able to get a good idea what you're looking at from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 Thanks very much, ill see how i get on and let you all know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer 5thave Posted May 10, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted May 10, 2011 Uhh, don't soak any rubber or rubber-like parts in carb cleaner or a cleaner bath. They'll turn to goo. Don't ask me how I know. If you find you have to reuse any of the rubbery things (o-rings etc) then set them aside and keep 'em clean and dry. Put them back in after your carbs have been de-gunked and DRIED. :) best wishes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 has anyone mentioned the possibility air intake leaks? Would that affect fuel economy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NakedViffer Posted April 23, 2012 Share Posted April 23, 2012 Get yourself some thin wire, or pull a bristle from a wire brush and use that to probe the low speed circuit orfices while you introduce air from the slow jet hole. I've ran into quite a few carbs in my day that will not clean out with just compressed air. You also want to perform the same procedure on the fluting of the slow jet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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