Autocom Alternator Noise

[Guest V4GUY]

I felt like doing some tinkering yesterday, and I pulled out my (I guess) vintage PRO 7 Sport intercom, that was living in a ziploc bag, after I tore it out of my VFR a few years ago-and then promptly stopped riding-stupid!

I tore it out originally, because since the first install, I never really remember it working WITHOUT that really annoying alternator noise.

So, armed with the latest info, which includes running the ground directly to the battery, running the hot lead to a taillight, and trying to keep it away from electronics (fat chance)-I mounted it right in front of the taillights, in the rear.

Go for a ride...same annoying whine.

At one point, I did have a noise coil installed in the power lead, but that did nothing.

Can anyone share a special wire, or method, that can kill this noise, so I can go about enjoying the great fidelity that Autocom touts?

Thanks.

[PLCGuy]

I felt like doing some tinkering yesterday, and I pulled out my (I guess) vintage PRO 7 Sport intercom, that was living in a ziploc bag, after I tore it out of my VFR a few years ago-and then promptly stopped riding-stupid!

I tore it out originally, because since the first install, I never really remember it working WITHOUT that really annoying alternator noise.

So, armed with the latest info, which includes running the ground directly to the battery, running the hot lead to a taillight, and trying to keep it away from electronics (fat chance)-I mounted it right in front of the taillights, in the rear.

Go for a ride...same annoying whine.

At one point, I did have a noise coil installed in the power lead, but that did nothing.

Can anyone share a special wire, or method, that can kill this noise, so I can go about enjoying the great fidelity that Autocom touts?

Thanks.

Use a shielded cable and ground the shield. Add a choke in series with the power. Add a filter cap across the power leads.

[Guest]

I just ordered a fuse block and relay set-up. I will be powering from the battery directly.

I have two Autocom isolator leads, one for music/phone (Iphone), and the other will serve my Garmin Quest/split with my Valentine One.

I will be powering the IPhone, Quest, and Valentine One with bike power.

When you say ground the shield, are you talking about a Ground Loop Isolator?

Also, I had a power lead filter, but it did nothing. Cap? Excuse my ignorance...but willing to learn.

[Guest]

Been posting about full-electronics installation on my '99, and its down to my Autocom isolation leads.

Here's what I did so far, from the battery back:

Navone n-700 noise filter-TO-12 volt relay triggered by taillight-TO-Six position Fuse Block, distributing to my a)Valentine One b)GPS c)Autocom PRO-7 Sport d)IPhone power

All of the grounds are run to the battery (-) negative post.

Relay and related power runs like a champ.

Put on my helmet w/ speakers and started it up. Crackle, Crackle-naturally sync'd to the engine rpm.

But I still had bodywork off, so I pulled the music lead(IPhone, and Aux 1 (GPS and Valentine One combined), and it was perfect silence. Tried a couple of different combos, but same result.

These are isolated leads bought from Autocom-and they are supposed to block what I am hearing.

I'd say that my separate Auxiliary power circuit with relay, blows the doors off what Autocom recommends for power-so those bases are completely covered.

Who had this problem too, and what did you do?

[HispanicSlammer]

Been posting about full-electronics installation on my '99, and its down to my Autocom isolation leads.

Here's what I did so far, from the battery back:

Navone n-700 noise filter-TO-12 volt relay triggered by taillight-TO-Six position Fuse Block, distributing to my a)Valentine One b)GPS c)Autocom PRO-7 Sport d)IPhone power

All of the grounds are run to the battery (-) negative post.

Relay and related power runs like a champ.

Put on my helmet w/ speakers and started it up. Crackle, Crackle-naturally sync'd to the engine rpm.

But I still had bodywork off, so I pulled the music lead(IPhone, and Aux 1 (GPS and Valentine One combined), and it was perfect silence. Tried a couple of different combos, but same result.

These are isolated leads bought from Autocom-and they are supposed to block what I am hearing.

I'd say that my separate Auxiliary power circuit with relay, blows the doors off what Autocom recommends for power-so those bases are completely covered.

Who had this problem too, and what did you do?

I normally delete double posts, merged this one, you are not getting an answer cause nobody knows, or they dont care. In any case this is where it belongs. You can bump in the future dont double post it please - its in the rules.

OK moderator stuff over

I have an autocom on my bike and the only unit tied to it that caused alternator noise was a cheesy radar detector, Isolated the noise from and the power to it and the noise went away for the most part. Every now and then I would get noise - but by cycling my key on and off it would go away. I suspected a bad connection on the relay - I have a fuse block with a built in relay. All the lines go out from the same fuse block and are grounded fromt he same fuse block. Look at the relay. Just a guess I think you covered just about every thing else.

[Guest]

Been posting about full-electronics installation on my '99, and its down to my Autocom isolation leads.

Here's what I did so far, from the battery back:

Navone n-700 noise filter-TO-12 volt relay triggered by taillight-TO-Six position Fuse Block, distributing to my a)Valentine One b)GPS c)Autocom PRO-7 Sport d)IPhone power

All of the grounds are run to the battery (-) negative post.

Relay and related power runs like a champ.

Put on my helmet w/ speakers and started it up. Crackle, Crackle-naturally sync'd to the engine rpm.

But I still had bodywork off, so I pulled the music lead(IPhone, and Aux 1 (GPS and Valentine One combined), and it was perfect silence. Tried a couple of different combos, but same result.

These are isolated leads bought from Autocom-and they are supposed to block what I am hearing.

I'd say that my separate Auxiliary power circuit with relay, blows the doors off what Autocom recommends for power-so those bases are completely covered.

Who had this problem too, and what did you do?

I normally delete double posts, merged this one, you are not getting an answer cause nobody knows, or they dont care. In any case this is where it belongs. You can bump in the future dont double post it please - its in the rules.

OK moderator stuff over

I have an autocom on my bike and the only unit tied to it that caused alternator noise was a cheesy radar detector, Isolated the noise from and the power to it and the noise went away for the most part. Every now and then I would get noise - but by cycling my key on and off it would go away. I suspected a bad connection on the relay - I have a fuse block with a built in relay. All the lines go out from the same fuse block and are grounded fromt he same fuse block. Look at the relay. Just a guess I think you covered just about every thing else.

HS,

Got your posting rules. Thought my other entries were general-but this is a specific problem, and I realized I was posting in the wrong area, and thought posting in Mod questions might bring more answers.

Relay gets power from Filter, which has 3 leads.

Positive (+) to Battery (+), Negative (-) to Battery (-), and the Load which serves the relay.

The relay turns on with the taillight-and the taillight is the ONLY circuit that is not protected by the filter. I thought since it was switching a load, there was no relation.

All negs are isolated and connected straight to the battery.

Disconnecting the isolated leads shuts it up. Seems to suggest the isolated leads are generating the noise. They take a trip past the R/R, but there is little I can do about it.

[HispanicSlammer]

Disconnecting the isolated leads shuts it up. Seems to suggest the isolated leads are generating the noise. They take a trip past the R/R, but there is little I can do about it.

Well the orginal idea of a shielded cable might reduce any rf interference from the alternator,

http://diyaudioprojects.com/Power/diyMains/