Member Contributer y2kvfr Posted December 3, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2010 I have some popping on decel and figured I'd give the PAIR removal trick a go. I have the block off plates (thank you VFRd!) Now... what will I need for vacuum caps? I figure I can get them at the local autoparts place, but I'd like to know what sizes, and how many, I need before I start digging in. Is it simply one cap where the PAIR goes into the airbox? (right end of part #2 in the figure) TIA, -travis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted December 3, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2010 Correct, 1 cap where the large hose connects to the front of the airbox. I don't remember what I ended up using, though it is possible that I did find a cap to fit that at napa. Might have also used something I would have found in the plumbing aisle at Home Depot (by the flexible tubing etc). You can unplug the solenoid (6? in that figure) from the connection with no ill effects. I think I just gave mine a liberal dose of dielectric grease to keep out the moisture. Also for popping, check your exhaust joints. Sometimes a leak can cause that as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Echoing what Mad said, you can toss everything in that picture with no ill-effects. Get rid of that crap! I didn't use block-off plates....I simply cut and plugged hoses coming off the cylinder heads with short 3/8s inch bolts. Blocking the airbox hole is really simple....pretty much anything that you can put over the airbox fitting or jam securly in it (which is what I did, but I forgot what it was...a small rubber cork perhaps?) It's not a critical pressure or vacuum situation there. What you DON'T want to do is jam something into the hole from the inside of the airbox. If were to ever pop out (inwards!), it would definitely end up down the intake stacks and jam your throttle blades open. Oooops! Removing the airbox to do this makes it easy and foolproof. Isn't there a How To on this? I thought HS did one years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer y2kvfr Posted December 3, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2010 Isn't there a How To on this? I thought HS did one years ago. I've looked, I've searched (Forums and blogs even). At first glance I said to myself, "Self, there is going to be a LOT of hoses to plug". Turns out only one place since I have the plates. Since it is only one, I'll yank the hose and measure the nipple with the calipers and find a cap in the local auto parts (I got a guy...) Thanks guys. Maybe I'll even take pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer y2kvfr Posted December 3, 2010 Author Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2010 This is for the 6th gen, but I venture to guess that it won't be too different.... 6th Gen Pair Removal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Yeah, that 6thGen HowTo is good 'nuff for 5thGen work. Once you start "following hoses", you'll see how simple the PAIR removal actually is. As for the flapper valve stuff that was also mentioned in that post, most of us have disconnected the hose that goes to the diaphram and plugged it. But last weekend I had the airbox off and removed EVERYTHING that has to do with that useless system (Bypass Solenoid Valve, One Way Valve, small Vacuum Canister, associated small vacuum hoses, etc), and plugged the single small vacuum hose from the intake manifold that makes it all work. I DID keep the Bypass Solenoid Valve in place on the airbox and kept the electrical connection to it (which just gives the valve 12V on/off to open or close the flapper) to prevent any codes due to being disconnected, but that solenoid valve now does NOTHING except sit there. Obviously, since it's not hooked to anything there is no reason whatsoever to plug the various nipples coming off of it. So, while you're doing the PAIR thing you might as well do the total flapper crap removal, too. With all of this work you'll be removing a whopping 10-12 ounces of useless do-dads! :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer MadScientist Posted December 3, 2010 Member Contributer Share Posted December 3, 2010 Yeah, that 6thGen HowTo is good 'nuff for 5thGen work. Once you start "following hoses", you'll see how simple the PAIR removal actually is. As for the flapper valve stuff that was also mentioned in that post, most of us have disconnected the hose that goes to the diaphram and plugged it. But last weekend I had the airbox off and removed EVERYTHING that has to do with that useless system (Bypass Solenoid Valve, One Way Valve, small Vacuum Canister, associated small vacuum hoses, etc), and plugged the single small vacuum hose from the intake manifold that makes it all work. I DID keep the Bypass Solenoid Valve in place on the airbox and kept the electrical connection to it (which just gives the valve 12V on/off to open or close the flapper) to prevent any codes due to being disconnected, but that solenoid valve now does NOTHING except sit there. Obviously, since it's not hooked to anything there is no reason whatsoever to plug the various nipples coming off of it. So, while you're doing the PAIR thing you might as well do the total flapper crap removal, too. With all of this work you'll be removing a whopping 10-12 ounces of useless do-dads! :biggrin: +1, I yanked all that crap out, exact same way as Trace. Makes maintenance easier and removes a bunch of clutter. Not really worth it for just weight savings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trace Posted December 3, 2010 Share Posted December 3, 2010 Not really worth it for just weight savings. Totally true, but it's about the only weight you can get out of our heavy pigs for free, so I wanted to "enjoy" that massive improvement, too! :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer y2kvfr Posted February 19, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 19, 2011 Just for a follow up... maybe this will help someone in the future. I finally got into the garage to do some of my '11 Winter Maintenance. I used a 5/8" bypass plug and a zip tie for the one hole in the air box to plug: airbox_plug.jpg The reed valves were NASTY reed_valve.jpg Here's the crud that was removed: pair_tubing.jpg And the beauties from sa1713 (Thanks Jim!) pair_blockoff.jpg pair_blockoff_rear.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted February 20, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2011 Did you use any high temp gasket sealer on the plates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer y2kvfr Posted February 20, 2011 Author Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2011 Did you use any high temp gasket sealer on the plates? Nope. Since I left the reed valves in, I figured I wouldn't need it. I did take the reeds themselves out as the screw protruded a bit and these plates are flat, not recessed on the underside. Since the reed 'carriers' have gaskets, and they weren't cracked or brittle, I didn't use any sealant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer KevCarver Posted February 20, 2011 Member Contributer Share Posted February 20, 2011 Did you use any high temp gasket sealer on the plates? Nope. Since I left the reed valves in, I figured I wouldn't need it. I did take the reeds themselves out as the screw protruded a bit and these plates are flat, not recessed on the underside. Since the reed 'carriers' have gaskets, and they weren't cracked or brittle, I didn't use any sealant. Oh jeeze! Leaving the reed valves and Dubious Chinese Knockoff Levers? Just an accident waiting to happen, my friend! Big fiery explosive accident! :laughing6-hehe: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mazaev Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 (edited) One thing I learned doing this (partially because the Ebay block off plates were thin crap) is that there is absolutely no reason for spending ~$20 on the covers. Why not just put a pair of those same rubber caps (I got some ones made for chair legs; 4 per pack) where the hoses go. This way you just re-use the old covers and can still rip everything out. In any case, I just did this to my '99 and decel is considerably cleaner. Edited July 11, 2012 by Mazaev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.