'94 Vfr: Rebuilt Forks With Racetech Valves Question

[MadFrog]

I rebuilt the forks on the old girl over the winter (50,000 miles) and used Racetech compression and rebound valves. New bushings, seals, springs (0.95), etc.

I used their sheets to determine the right shim stacks and everything went pretty good. I couldn't find a 1.3mm drill bit as recommended, so I used a 1.1mm which is the closest I could find at the local hobby shop.

Now, everything feels pretty good, but the forks are noisy on extension/rebound. I can hear a squishy/swooshy sound after a hard stop and the fork rebounds. Or when I hit a large crack and forks extend. Actually, even just compressing the forks manually at a stop I can hear it.

Is that something I should be worrying about?

TIA.

[VFR Capt.Bob]

I rebuilt the forks on the old girl over the winter (50,000 miles) and used Racetech compression and rebound valves. New bushings, seals, springs (0.95), etc.

I used their sheets to determine the right shim stacks and everything went pretty good. I couldn't find a 1.3mm drill bit as recommended, so I used a 1.1mm which is the closest I could find at the local hobby shop.

Now, everything feels pretty good, but the forks are noisy on extension/rebound. I can hear a squishy/swooshy sound after a hard stop and the fork rebounds. Or when I hit a large crack and forks extend. Actually, even just compressing the forks manually at a stop I can hear it.

Is that something I should be worrying about?

TIA.

I think it means you have a quiet exhaust and good hearing. Just had mine done and same deal. The gold valves flow a lot more oil than stock so unless you notice handling quirks my best guess is your forks are working a lot better like mine are. Just did a track day at Willow Springs in the wind and forks felt amazing. No wallow no chattering no bottoming or packing down. Just dead stable and complient. As far as the bit size you used. Ask RaceTech they seem very straight forward.

[MadFrog]

I rebuilt the forks on the old girl over the winter (50,000 miles) and used Racetech compression and rebound valves. New bushings, seals, springs (0.95), etc.

I used their sheets to determine the right shim stacks and everything went pretty good. I couldn't find a 1.3mm drill bit as recommended, so I used a 1.1mm which is the closest I could find at the local hobby shop.

Now, everything feels pretty good, but the forks are noisy on extension/rebound. I can hear a squishy/swooshy sound after a hard stop and the fork rebounds. Or when I hit a large crack and forks extend. Actually, even just compressing the forks manually at a stop I can hear it.

Is that something I should be worrying about?

TIA.

I think it means you have a quiet exhaust and good hearing. Just had mine done and same deal. The gold valves flow a lot more oil than stock so unless you notice handling quirks my best guess is your forks are working a lot better like mine are. Just did a track day at Willow Springs in the wind and forks felt amazing. No wallow no chattering no bottoming or packing down. Just dead stable and complient. As far as the bit size you used. Ask RaceTech they seem very straight forward.

heh, thanks for the reply. Don't know if a Staintune without the plug thing can be called quiet, or if my hearing is all that good any more, but it is very easy to hear when stopping at a red light for example. Or just rolling in the garage with the engine off and slamming the brakes.

I'll shoot the Racetech folks an email or a phone call to verify though. Don't know why I didn't think of it.

thanks.

[JamieDaugherty]

Hearing the fluid through the valving is not normal, but I can't say that it's really a problem. What shim stacks did you use? I'm wondering if you have something else going on in there.

The Ø1.1mm drill size is not a problem at all. You can vary that a little to either direction. It's best to try and get close (as you've done) because the 4th gens don't have external adjustments for the low speed damping. That's all the free bleed controls anyway.

[MadFrog]

Hearing the fluid through the valving is not normal, but I can't say that it's really a problem. What shim stacks did you use? I'm wondering if you have something else going on in there.

The Ø1.1mm drill size is not a problem at all. You can vary that a little to either direction. It's best to try and get close (as you've done) because the 4th gens don't have external adjustments for the low speed damping. That's all the free bleed controls anyway.

Thanks for the reply. I don't have the sheets at hand, but I just used the tables they supplied for my weight (~180-190 with gear on) and use (street). I followed HispanicSlammer's write-up as a guide along with the Honda service manual. I noted that I didn't need to change the spring spacers as the new springs were the same length as the OEM ones.

I also installed a 929 shock on the rear while I was in there. :-)

[Guest]

IMO it's normal to hear some noise from the fluid in the forks, but I really doubt you would hear what I term as "normal" with the engine running. I know if I "bounce" the front end checking the rebound speed I always hear the fluid moving though the valving.

[MadFrog]

IMO it's normal to hear some noise from the fluid in the forks, but I really doubt you would hear what I term as "normal" with the engine running. I know if I "bounce" the front end checking the rebound speed I always hear the fluid moving though the valving.

Quick update: I was trying to set the sag on the front and the most I could get was 27mm. I have a .95 spring and I weigh in at 180. I wonder if I did do something wrong when putting the forks back together. I may have to take the whole thing apart again. Grrr.

[syjang40]

IMO it's normal to hear some noise from the fluid in the forks, but I really doubt you would hear what I term as "normal" with the engine running. I know if I "bounce" the front end checking the rebound speed I always hear the fluid moving though the valving.

Quick update: I was trying to set the sag on the front and the most I could get was 27mm. I have a .95 spring and I weigh in at 180. I wonder if I did do something wrong when putting the forks back together. I may have to take the whole thing apart again. Grrr.

Assuming that everything else is ok, (i.e. - oil level) you need to shorten your spacers to reduce your preload. If you replaced your stock springs with ones from Race Tech, you should have ample material to make two sets of spacers. You don't have to take everything apart to replace the spacers. Just unload your front end completely; back-off your preloads; remove your clip-ons making sure your clutch/break reservoirs are level and slowly remove your fork caps while applying pressure as there will be some pressure from a compressed spring. Be sure to stuff some rags around your forks to catch any fork oil. I think you know the rest.

I just read one of earlier replies, you stated that you didn't need change your spacer length because the new springs were the same length as your stock springs. But you're using springs that have a higher spring rate and then assembling them with stock preload (how much they are compressed from it free length), you're not going to get the proper range for adjustments. I would check your Race Tech spec sheet. It should state the recommended preload.

[MadFrog]

Assuming that everything else is ok, (i.e. - oil level) you need to shorten your spacers to reduce your preload. If you replaced your stock springs with ones from Race Tech, you should have ample material to make two sets of spacers. You don't have to take everything apart to replace the spacers. Just unload your front end completely; back-off your preloads; remove your clip-ons making sure your clutch/break reservoirs are level and slowly remove your fork caps while applying pressure as there will be some pressure from a compressed spring. Be sure to stuff some rags around your forks to catch any fork oil. I think you know the rest.

I just read one of earlier replies, you stated that you didn't need change your spacer length because the new springs were the same length as your stock springs. But you're using springs that have a higher spring rate and then assembling them with stock preload (how much they are compressed from it free length), you're not going to get the proper range for adjustments. I would check your Race Tech spec sheet. It should state the recommended preload.

I cut some shorter spacers this weekend. The stock ones are 100mm, I cut some 85mm ones out of the tubing RaceTech had sent. I kept everything on the bike, I just took the caps off and went to work (after of course supporting the bike from underneath to get the front wheel up in the air).

I now have a nice 38mm sag. Thanks.

On a related note, I tried checking my oil level while I was in there, but I didn't get any good measurements. The forks were not vertical, and I am not sure that I could get the forks compressed all the way while on the bike - I think I saw as much as a 9" gap at the to - which would be 2" too much air. I didn't want to chance putting more oil in there and overfilling. I think I will just have to take the tubes off again over the winter and re-do the oil fill.

[R_Cote]

I rebuilt the forks on the old girl over the winter (50,000 miles) and used Racetech compression and rebound valves. New bushings, seals, springs (0.95), etc.

I used their sheets to determine the right shim stacks and everything went pretty good. I couldn't find a 1.3mm drill bit as recommended, so I used a 1.1mm which is the closest I could find at the local hobby shop.

Now, everything feels pretty good, but the forks are noisy on extension/rebound. I can hear a squishy/swooshy sound after a hard stop and the fork rebounds. Or when I hit a large crack and forks extend. Actually, even just compressing the forks manually at a stop I can hear it.

Is that something I should be worrying about?

TIA.

I revalved my 2000 with the Race Tech recommended stack for the rebound valve because of the .90 springs I put in. Since then I have that same hydrolic sound on rebound. I personaly think that the sound is the oil being forced through the the bleed circuit as the stack is so stiff now the shims are not opening at this slow a shaft speed.

My front end still feels bouncy, even with the way stiffer than stock shim stack on the rebound valve. I'm not going to mess with it anymore until I address the rear shock. ( still looking to buy an ohlins or Penske some day) I believe the front forks are now over powering the rear shock. If the rear were sprung correctly, more weight would stay on the front and not rebound so quickly. The rear spring is stock and the fork springs are much stonger now. On the plus side though, I'm getting great life out of my front tire since I put the .90 springs in. The tire is no where near showing any signs of cupping. Go figure.