Guest Allan Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 My new to me 96 VFR came with a Two Brother Racing full system. I'm guessing the previous owner put it on more for the sound than anything else as he did not mention adding a jet kit or anything else. I forgot to ask specifically. Anyway, i think the bike is running a bit rich as I can smell gas when I stop. I have not however done anything to remedy the situation like inspecting the air filter or syncing/adjusting the carbs. The real question is do I need a free flowing air filter and/or jet kit to balance the full system exhaust? Or will adding a new clean air filter and properly adjusting the carbs be fine with the aftermarket exhaust setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I have a 2 bro's full system exhaust on mine when I bought it from the previous owner. I did smell fuel on mine and it was running rich (fouling up my plugs). I re-jetted and changed the float valves (overhauled and synced) the carbs. No problems since. By the way, for air filter I used OEM and it works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I have a 2 bro's full system exhaust on mine when I bought it from the previous owner. I did smell fuel on mine and it was running rich (fouling up my plugs). I re-jetted and changed the float valves (overhauled and synced) the carbs. No problems since. By the way, for air filter I used OEM and it works just fine. Did you need to rejet, or would adjusting the stock carb with stock needles work fine? Rejeting is something down the road I would like to do for more power, smoothness, etc. But i've already got my budget tied up in other things to get the bike (mostly bodywork) back in decent shape. So if I don't have to ill worry about rejeting later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted October 21, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted October 21, 2008 If it is a true full system, it would be running lean with stock carbs. My assumption is the bike has been jetted before (or messed with), the filter could be dirty and/or the carbs need adjusting. IIRC, dyno-jet calls for a stage two setup on a full system exhaust with aftermarket filter. This means using the larger of their two jet sizes, clips moved on the needles, and removing the front intake snorkel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 If it is a true full system, it would be running lean with stock carbs. My assumption is the bike has been jetted before (or messed with), the filter could be dirty and/or the carbs need adjusting.IIRC, dyno-jet calls for a stage two setup on a full system exhaust with aftermarket filter. This means using the larger of their two jet sizes, clips moved on the needles, and removing the front intake snorkel. Once I get the carbs apart is there any way to tell the difference between the stock and aftermarket needles?. I called the previous owner and he got the bike with the pipe on it and didn't do any modifications to it. He does not know weather it was rejeted or not. Dyno-Jet only shows the Stage 1 kit on their website. It is labeled "For mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock or K&N filter. May also be used with a good aftermarket exhaust system." http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/1159.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted October 21, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted October 21, 2008 If it is a true full system, it would be running lean with stock carbs. My assumption is the bike has been jetted before (or messed with), the filter could be dirty and/or the carbs need adjusting.IIRC, dyno-jet calls for a stage two setup on a full system exhaust with aftermarket filter. This means using the larger of their two jet sizes, clips moved on the needles, and removing the front intake snorkel. Once I get the carbs apart is there any way to tell the difference between the stock and aftermarket needles?. I called the previous owner and he got the bike with the pipe on it and didn't do any modifications to it. He does not know weather it was rejeted or not. Dyno-Jet only shows the Stage 1 kit on their website. It is labeled "For mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock or K&N filter. May also be used with a good aftermarket exhaust system." http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/1159.pdf Since full exhausts systems are no longer available, it would seem to make sense that they wouldn't sell a stage II kit any longer. The jets sizes (116, 120, etc) are stamped on the mains so once you remove and open the carbs up, you will be able to tell what you have. I once made the mistake of buying a jet kit for a used bike and then discovering it all ready had been installed. First things first tho', check/clean the air filter and check the condition of the spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 If it is a true full system, it would be running lean with stock carbs. My assumption is the bike has been jetted before (or messed with), the filter could be dirty and/or the carbs need adjusting.IIRC, dyno-jet calls for a stage two setup on a full system exhaust with aftermarket filter. This means using the larger of their two jet sizes, clips moved on the needles, and removing the front intake snorkel. Once I get the carbs apart is there any way to tell the difference between the stock and aftermarket needles?. I called the previous owner and he got the bike with the pipe on it and didn't do any modifications to it. He does not know weather it was rejeted or not. Dyno-Jet only shows the Stage 1 kit on their website. It is labeled "For mildly tuned machines using the stock airbox, with stock or K&N filter. May also be used with a good aftermarket exhaust system." http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/1159.pdf Since full exhausts systems are no longer available, it would seem to make sense that they wouldn't sell a stage II kit any longer. The jets sizes (116, 120, etc) are stamped on the mains so once you remove and open the carbs up, you will be able to tell what you have. I once made the mistake of buying a jet kit for a used bike and then discovering it all ready had been installed. First things first tho', check/clean the air filter and check the condition of the spark plugs. The PDF for the stage 1 lists part numbers DJ116, DJ120, DJ124. This is kind of a academic discussion as I have not cleaned/replaced the air filter, plugs, or synched/cleaned/adjusted the carbs. But im trying not to make the same mistake and buying something I don't need. I'll have to revisit this once I get down to the carbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer FotoMoto Posted October 21, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted October 21, 2008 Ohhh, I just thought of another tell-tale. Most (all?) dyno-jet kits come with new allen head screws for the float bowls to replace the soon to be stripped out stock phillips head screws that are usually stuck. You should be able to see these with the carbs still on the bike. But I don't know if the Factory jet kit brand provides these too. It's possible you could have that brand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Contributer V-FORE Posted October 21, 2008 Member Contributer Share Posted October 21, 2008 Allan I thought I would throw in my 2 pennies, since I just did this. I also smelled gas, I am of the opinion that it is not JETTING, What you need to do (what I did) order new float bowl gaskets & needle set (hdlparts.com) You can check your oil dipstick & see if you have a slight gas smell to your oil, =needles not closing floats & washing the cyl with fuel. I did not have any problems with plugs fouling or anything, always started with a tap on the button, just the rich smell & I have a 2bros slip on which sounds great. After I replaced the needles & blew out all passages it was appearent that was the problem the rubber tips I don't believe were meant to last the 14 years 55,000 miles that they did After doing it the change in performance & mileage :goofy: makes it definately worth it! Good Luck, its not that hard of a fix I felt that the worst of it was paying $176.00 for 4 float bowl gaskets & needle's Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Phantom Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Good Luck, its not that hard of a fix I felt that the worst of it was paying $176.00 for 4 float bowl gaskets & needle's Certainly worth doing, I'm just doing that myself. The 4th Gen is jetted fairly rich from Honda (125 mains) and you can often get away with not touching the jets at all if the components are all good and the bike is well tuned. An easy improvement is to go with 0.030" shims under the needles (they are a clipless design so it's either shims or replacement aftermarket needles), leave the stock jets in place (ensuring they are clean, or new), and set the pilot screws to 2.5 turns out. This should get the thing trucking with that full system! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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