Windshield, Upper Fairing, Seat Mods?

[Guest Chumly]

Well,

I gotta finish the Convertibars install on my VFR.

This install is a bit fussy because it looks like I will have to route out the windshield edge / upper fairing to get back lock to lock clearances.

Any suggestions on a real nice way to route out the windshield edge / upper fairing to gain handlebar clearance on my ?04 VFR? After that, if I like the ergos I?ll get a better seat.

Is there a local guy (Vancouver BC Canada) who can mod out the seat pan and foam to go wider and flatter? If not, I guess a Sargent seat is my best bet. The stock seat has the boys kissing the tank and my butt sloped forward. The stock seat is also too hard, narrow and sloped in the front for long trips of a few days on up.

[Guest]

Hi 767fixer,

It might just be the black plastic windshield stays I would need to route, plus some of the windshield itself, not quite sure yet. I have a regular wood router, regular metal files, and regular wood router bits, none of which I gather would be up for the job?

What do people use to drill the holes for those crash bumpers (can?t remember what they call them)? Any suggestions on where to get the right stuff?

[The Phantom]

You mean you need to cut the plastics to fit these bars? I would have thought Convertibar would have designed them so they would clear all bodywork.

I've done plenty of plastic mods. I use a cordless jigsaw, a Dremel and a mini hacksaw for most cutting. Then files to get the edges right, then sand to smooth. Platex is great for filling and modifying ABS.

Be careful as there are tubular frames running inside those windscreen supports, they are what the mirrors bolt to. Take the innermoulding off and see how much clearance you have to work with.

[Guest]

Hi Phantom,

Thanks for the tips. I guess cutting heat is the big enemy?

The system is good but there is no way around the law of physics if you want certain extended movements. Same with the cabling, I got the longer stuff for the same reasons.

[The Phantom]

Thanks for the tips. I guess cutting heat is the big enemy?

With the Dremel I need to watch out for heat, if I go too quickly (with either the burred cutter or a disc) it does melt the ABS. This slows cutting and also leaves a bit of a mess. You can clean it up but if you're hoping to cut without damaging paint then slow speeds are required. I'd try 767Fixer's suggestion of taping edges, it hasn't been a problem for me as I'm refinishing everything after I've modded it.

The jigsaw doesn't melt the plastic, I use metal cutting blades in it.

You can also use a box cutter for trimming but you need to be very careful, as it can easily bind then break free and go through whatever is near it!

[enzed_viffer]

I have a regular wood router, regular metal files, and regular wood router bits, none of which I gather would be up for the job?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I've used router bits in a laminate trimmer (smaller version of a router, spinning at 28k rpm) to trim plastic, and it worked OK, but you need to take it very, very slowly, because it has a voracious appetite! Also, it does get hot and melt the plastic, so if you go slowly it keeps it cooler. A steady hand, or something to stop you slipping and taking too much off is the key.

Oh - and don't use low-speed bits (like grinding bits intended for power drills) in high-rotation equipment..... :pissed:

As for the seat - you could pick the staples out, and do it your self. Decide on what shape you need, peel back the cover, and trim the foam with an electric breadknife, followed up with a sander and coarse sandpaper. Warm the seatcover up with a hairdryer to stretch it tight, then staple back on with a heavy-duty stapler and short staples.

Edited April 12, 2006 by enzed_viffer

[Guest]

Thanks guys!