New OEM clutch pack. Clutch not engaging

[afinepoint]

Installed new clutch on 2007 800a. Flushed clutch fluid.  Changed oil using Honda recommended type.  Motorcycle did well for ride around neighborhood which is about 2 miles.  Took bike out today.  Was not engaging after about half a mile.  Worsening until there was no engaging at about two miles.  Friction point was moving farther and farther on the lever. 

 

The correct clutch pack was installed using a manual.  New pressure plate springs.  All bolts torqued to spec.  Clutch area inspected and nothing unusual found.  

 

Clutch lever is snappy.  Pressure plate springs are pushing back.  

 

Thoughts? 

 

[Terry]

Those are the symptoms of a blockage in the master cylinder I think. The small relief port gets blocked, and that prevents pressure releasing from the line. As you work the clutch and/or the fluid heats, the line pressure increases and starts holding the plates apart.

[afinepoint]

Like a check valve.. That makes sense.  I was thinking the pressure plate is acting like it's being held away from the disks.  

[expvet]

The master/slave on the clutch can be tricky to bleed properly. When I rebuilt both on my 6th gen it seemed as if the typical master to slave bleed had gone well but I was getting poor disengagement with the plates. Finally resorted to a slave to master fluid push with a syringe and that dislodged whatever air pocket was trapped.

[afinepoint]

No pressure being retained.   Opened bleed port on slave and little came out. Nothing found in master cylinder bleed port but I did not have a fine wire to probe.  I just poked with a small paper clip. Placed bike on center stand. In gear  rear wheel locks with clutch lever released and turns with resistance with lever squeezed.  

 

Started next day.  Outside temperature 54°.  Clutch engaged initially.  Checked again with engine warm about 170°.  Clutch lightly engage then wouldn't.  Clutch friction point way to far out on lever.  Almost at point where lever sits.  I know the clutch pack is correctly installed. 

[afinepoint]

On 11/18/2023 at 12:37 AM, expvet said:

The master/slave on the clutch can be tricky to bleed properly. When I rebuilt both on my 6th gen it seemed as if the typical master to slave bleed had gone well but I was getting poor disengagement with the plates. Finally resorted to a slave to master fluid push with a syringe and that dislodged whatever air pocket was trapped.

This would cause poor disengagement due to the air bubble.  My issue is the opposite.  Great disengagement no engaging.  

[afinepoint]

Will rebuild master cylinder.  Only kits exist can not get new master cylinder.  Bike too old. So I will not be replacing the orifice but plan to blow it out. 

  

[Terry]

Definitely should be no need to replace the master cylinder, and actually if the master piston is not leaking you probably don't need to replace any parts. Just a full disassembly and  thorough clean and inspection. In the floor of the master cyinder is a small metal plate that sits into the main intake port, when you pick that out you will see the tiny relief port below. The metal plate's function is to stop a jet of brake fluid exiting the master when the cap is off during bleeding. Make sure this port is clearly ejecting fluid as the lever is pulled. 

[expvet]

There is a push rod that is pushed in when the slave piston is extended. Might want to check that it is moving freely since that is what engages and disengages the pressure plate.